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Old 26th October 2004, 04:13 PM   #11
sam9 is offline sam9  United States
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Although already mentioned above, the P101 from ESP (http://sound.au.com) would be an excellent choice. I have just finished two and it is the only amp I've built so far that worked perfectly on the first try. Assembling the PCB was quite easy.

The PCB fits parralle to the surface of the heatsink with the MOSFETS sandwiched in between. This is a great convenince when trying to squeeze everything in to an enclosure. For a first timer this aspect may be more of a challenge than the PCB itself.

It is flexible in that you can choose a power level from 100W to 200W and I suspect thw 100W configuration would work at 50W. (Some brave soul will sooner or later try "double die" MOSFETS and attempt a monster amp)
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Old 26th October 2004, 05:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
63V will give you quite some output power. Is it 63V AC or rectified DC? Even if it's 63V DC, you'll probably want 100V electrolytic caps.
If I recall correctly, you're in the states with 110V outlet voltage. If your transformers are with two primaries (spare parts that could be used in europe with 230V, then you could leave it at that and use it at half the rated voltage. Remember that current capability will not double, so your useable power is decreased.
It's 63V rectified DC. I have two of the international versions although I have installed one in one of my Haflers. I can change them back if necessary since there was nothing wrong with the stock unit.


Quote:
they do like easy to drive speakers, så those monitors of yours might wel be a very good match for a GC.
And they do put out 68w per chip, if treated right :P
(there is no reason why you could not bridge or paralell them though)
The GC might be a good place to start, if I an find the PCBs and the chips. They look to be very simple to build.

Quote:
Although already mentioned above, the P101 from ESP (http://sound.au.com) would be an excellent choice. I have just finished two and it is the only amp I've built so far that worked perfectly on the first try. Assembling the PCB was quite easy.
Hum, the website says that the PCB sill be available in FEB, I think. Are yu telling me that they are already availible?

Thanks, Terry
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X-BoSoZ, B1 Mezmerize, ESP P101, Symasym, KSA 50 X 2 Aleph-X, Leach Low TIM, Leach Superamp, Dx MKIII, DX Super A, Honey Badger, JLH 1969, Gainclone. FetZilla, Peeceebee X2, VSSA PMI, VSSA jkuetemann, SKA GB150, Slewmonster with; CFA-XH IPS, Wolverine IPS, Spooky IPS
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Old 26th October 2004, 05:17 PM   #13
Jennice is offline Jennice  Denmark
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According to his web site, http://sound.westhost.com/project101.htm , PCB's are available. The flags (I think) indicate last updates and status.
Otherwise, email him - his addy is there somewhere...


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Old 26th October 2004, 05:32 PM   #14
djQUAN is offline djQUAN  Philippines
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Quote:
Originally posted by still4given


Hum, the website says that the PCB sill be available in FEB, I think. Are yu telling me that they are already availible?

Thanks, Terry

FEB 01 means that the article was published online feb 1 2004.

the PCB's are still available at present (with the error, so you get a discount) as far as I know.
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Old 26th October 2004, 06:13 PM   #15
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Thanks for the link. I have sent him an email.

Blessings, Terry
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X-BoSoZ, B1 Mezmerize, ESP P101, Symasym, KSA 50 X 2 Aleph-X, Leach Low TIM, Leach Superamp, Dx MKIII, DX Super A, Honey Badger, JLH 1969, Gainclone. FetZilla, Peeceebee X2, VSSA PMI, VSSA jkuetemann, SKA GB150, Slewmonster with; CFA-XH IPS, Wolverine IPS, Spooky IPS
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Old 26th October 2004, 06:22 PM   #16
sam9 is offline sam9  United States
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Quote:
"Although already mentioned above, the P101 from ESP (http://sound.au.com) would be an excellent choice. I have just finished two and it is the only amp I've built so far that worked perfectly on the first try. Assembling the PCB was quite easy."



Hum, the website says that the PCB sill be available in FEB, I think. Are yu telling me that they are already availible?
You have to go to the Purchase>pcbs> page. The current stock, as mentioned, has an error but you get instruction on correcting easily. The published instructions (unless corrected already) also have a bit of confusion regarding nomenclature and identification of a couple of capacitors but it is easy to figure out what is intended.

The sooner we buy up the initial stock the sooner Rod can start selling error-free versions (which IMO will sound just the bsame, i.e., good).
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Old 26th October 2004, 07:58 PM   #17
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Hi Sam9,

I see that you have just finished two of these.

May I ask what wattage you built?

Did you build mono or stereo?

What trannies did you use?

Did you buy just the PCB from Rod or did you buy some of the other parts from him as well?

Thanks, Terry
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X-BoSoZ, B1 Mezmerize, ESP P101, Symasym, KSA 50 X 2 Aleph-X, Leach Low TIM, Leach Superamp, Dx MKIII, DX Super A, Honey Badger, JLH 1969, Gainclone. FetZilla, Peeceebee X2, VSSA PMI, VSSA jkuetemann, SKA GB150, Slewmonster with; CFA-XH IPS, Wolverine IPS, Spooky IPS
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Old 26th October 2004, 08:06 PM   #18
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Terry,

I am going to second the suggestion for a Leach amp. Mine was my first DIY project with just a little more experience than you have. By taking my time and time and double checking everything along the way it fired up and worked right the first time. The sound quality is excellent -- although I have never heard an ESP amp.

You can also modify the Leach a little to make use of those Hafler transformers. Change and increase the quantity of the output devices and drivers and a couple other changes that are easy and you can run it at 80 volt rails. PM me and I'll detail how I am doing it.
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Old 26th October 2004, 09:01 PM   #19
sam9 is offline sam9  United States
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Quote:
Did you build mono or stereo?
Stereo with single power supply.

Quote:
What trannies did you use?
35-0-35 500VA from Avel-Lindberg.

Quote:
Did you buy just the PCB from Rod or did you buy some of the other parts from him as well?
Just the PCBs. I used 4 MOSFETS per board even though even though I'm limiting it to 100W for now (see transformer answer) which I got as matched pairs from www.diy-tech.com Most other components for the PCBs were available locally from a surplus shop-- anything else from digikey. Also I check my storage bins as I seem to have accumulated miscellaneous cap and resistors need to be used if possible.
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Old 26th October 2004, 09:02 PM   #20
sam9 is offline sam9  United States
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I mean www.tech-diy.com. Sorry.
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