relay
http://www.relay-rayex.com/e-product-searchshow.asp?search=LEG
Look at the LEG Relays, it works in Nmos350 ?
http://www.relay-rayex.com/e-product-searchshow.asp?search=LEG
Look at the LEG Relays, it works in Nmos350 ?
Re: relay
Marus
Any 24V relay with the correct contact rating will work. The only problem you might face is the footprint. You'll have to look for relays with the same pin-out as what Quasi has used. Otherwise, you'll have to modify the pcb layout to suit the relays that are available to you.
Cheers
Hari
marus said:
Marus
Any 24V relay with the correct contact rating will work. The only problem you might face is the footprint. You'll have to look for relays with the same pin-out as what Quasi has used. Otherwise, you'll have to modify the pcb layout to suit the relays that are available to you.
Cheers
Hari
Re: heatsink
This link takes you to a photo showing the heatsink used for my amp. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=511828#post511828
It measures about 300mm long by 80mm wide. Whether you need a fan or not depends on how much power you are going to run and on what the amp is for i.e. home hi-fi or PA use. For home hi-fi you will not need to fan cool the heatsinks but you will need good vantilation inside the case (other bits get warm). For PA use a fan is a good idea.
Cheers
Q
marus said:
This link takes you to a photo showing the heatsink used for my amp. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=511828#post511828
It measures about 300mm long by 80mm wide. Whether you need a fan or not depends on how much power you are going to run and on what the amp is for i.e. home hi-fi or PA use. For home hi-fi you will not need to fan cool the heatsinks but you will need good vantilation inside the case (other bits get warm). For PA use a fan is a good idea.
Cheers
Q
What I plan to use and I'm not sure :
- C12 : http://www.wima.com/EN/mks4.htm ( 68n / 400V)
- C1 : http://www.wima.com/EN/mks2.htm ( 2,2uF / 63V )
- C12 : http://www.wima.com/EN/mks4.htm ( 68n / 400V)
- C1 : http://www.wima.com/EN/mks2.htm ( 2,2uF / 63V )
marus said:Quasi, how many turs have L1 and what diameter and conductor size ? please !
I wound the output inductor on a plastic bobbin with an internal diameter of 15mm and a height of 10mm. I used 1mm wire and wound 3 layers of 10 turns for a total of 30 turns. The final value of this inductor is not critical at all so you can vary this to use what is available to you.
marus said:
These would be good choices for these capacitors.
Cheers
Q
Dammit!
Hello,
I have finisched my NMOS200 today.
In short:
One channel is working perfectly. The other one is dead.
---
Since this project took some months, I didn't notice that I had exchanged Ground and Speaker-out on one channel.
So on my first start up this channel got very hot and my 4A fuses died. After I had found my mistake, the current-flow is way too high. I beleive that at least one of my IRF died as one gets hotter than all others.
Can anyone give me some advice wich Transistors I have to check and wich parts could have got damaged?
Any advice? Thank you very much!
Greetings
Black
Hello,
I have finisched my NMOS200 today.
In short:
One channel is working perfectly. The other one is dead.
---
Since this project took some months, I didn't notice that I had exchanged Ground and Speaker-out on one channel.
So on my first start up this channel got very hot and my 4A fuses died. After I had found my mistake, the current-flow is way too high. I beleive that at least one of my IRF died as one gets hotter than all others.
Can anyone give me some advice wich Transistors I have to check and wich parts could have got damaged?
Any advice? Thank you very much!
Greetings
Black
Black,
Did you build the TO-220 or TO-247 version of the NMOS200?
I am not the "expert" in these matters, but if my memory serves me from similar questions on this thread you will need to replace all the output MOSFETS, the driver (T9/T10) and perhaps the pre-driver transitors (T6/T7). I also suspect you may need to replace C8 as well. I am not sure if C7 will need to be replaced or if the source resistors for the output devices will need replacing.
Again I am not the "expert" here, but thought I offer what my hunch would be until the "experts" can correct or confirm my best guess.
I hope you are happy with the one working module's performance and sound quality. Hope you will have your second module repaired and working great as well.
Regards,
John L. Males
Willowdale, Ontario
Canada
15 August 2007 17:51
Official Quasi Thread Researcher
Did you build the TO-220 or TO-247 version of the NMOS200?
I am not the "expert" in these matters, but if my memory serves me from similar questions on this thread you will need to replace all the output MOSFETS, the driver (T9/T10) and perhaps the pre-driver transitors (T6/T7). I also suspect you may need to replace C8 as well. I am not sure if C7 will need to be replaced or if the source resistors for the output devices will need replacing.
Again I am not the "expert" here, but thought I offer what my hunch would be until the "experts" can correct or confirm my best guess.
I hope you are happy with the one working module's performance and sound quality. Hope you will have your second module repaired and working great as well.
Regards,
John L. Males
Willowdale, Ontario
Canada
15 August 2007 17:51
Official Quasi Thread Researcher
Re: Dammit!
Naughty Boy.....
You need to remove all the FETs from the PCB and individually check them. Then check the driver transistors. The second stage should have been protected by the 100 ohm resistors, but check these anyway. Look for any stressed passive components.
Cheers
Q
BlacK_Chicken said:
Naughty Boy.....
You need to remove all the FETs from the PCB and individually check them. Then check the driver transistors. The second stage should have been protected by the 100 ohm resistors, but check these anyway. Look for any stressed passive components.
Cheers
Q
Hello again,
thank you very much for your support.
I am working with 4 to-220 irf640n mosfets in my NMOS200. As I was using 10R/9W reistors while testing, nothing on my board got burned/overheated/exploded/mechnically or thermally demaged. As far as I can see.
Today I removed my Board from the chassis and checked it on my "bench" solo. After rough testing (Bias about 1.5-2A), I desoldered all fets. The board is working quite well current flow is about 40mA on both rails with +-32V railvoltage. Shamefully my oscillograph is not working correctly therefore no detailed measurements were done.
I tested all Mosfets seperately. 2 of them were dead (always "on" Ron~30-50ohms) one had a very high Ron~30ohms and one was working quite well with Ron~2ohms.
Today I am ordering new fets and drivers (one never knows, whats coming).
As my other channel is performing very well I think I'll get this one running soon.
Pics are coming as everything is reassembled and working.
Greetings
Black
thank you very much for your support.
I am working with 4 to-220 irf640n mosfets in my NMOS200. As I was using 10R/9W reistors while testing, nothing on my board got burned/overheated/exploded/mechnically or thermally demaged. As far as I can see.
Today I removed my Board from the chassis and checked it on my "bench" solo. After rough testing (Bias about 1.5-2A), I desoldered all fets. The board is working quite well current flow is about 40mA on both rails with +-32V railvoltage. Shamefully my oscillograph is not working correctly therefore no detailed measurements were done.
I tested all Mosfets seperately. 2 of them were dead (always "on" Ron~30-50ohms) one had a very high Ron~30ohms and one was working quite well with Ron~2ohms.
Today I am ordering new fets and drivers (one never knows, whats coming).
As my other channel is performing very well I think I'll get this one running soon.
Pics are coming as everything is reassembled and working.
Greetings
Black
antrim transformers
Hi i have taken thousends of power transformers from antrim.
thay are the best in quality.
i have used a selection of toriodal makers,and allmost all have no idea on making toridals.
junk is what most will deliver.
making toridal transformers is easy
thay are only a coil of wire
Hi i have taken thousends of power transformers from antrim.
thay are the best in quality.
i have used a selection of toriodal makers,and allmost all have no idea on making toridals.
junk is what most will deliver.
making toridal transformers is easy
thay are only a coil of wire
Hi Black,
Just a passing comment. From my theory evaluation (not sumulations) of the datasheet information the IRF640N's are a excellent choice to use. Sadly I cannot buy any here locally in Toronto as the IRF640Ns would be my first choice as an output device. You should have excellent dynamics, fast clear highs, and of course your bass and mids should be great as well. Of course quais's design has alot to do with it, but those IRP640Ns will ensure you experience the best of quasi's design.
All the best with the repair of the problem module.
Regards,
John L. Males
Willowdale, Ontario
Canada
17 August 2007 22:44
Official Quasi Thread Researcher
Just a passing comment. From my theory evaluation (not sumulations) of the datasheet information the IRF640N's are a excellent choice to use. Sadly I cannot buy any here locally in Toronto as the IRF640Ns would be my first choice as an output device. You should have excellent dynamics, fast clear highs, and of course your bass and mids should be great as well. Of course quais's design has alot to do with it, but those IRP640Ns will ensure you experience the best of quasi's design.
All the best with the repair of the problem module.
Regards,
John L. Males
Willowdale, Ontario
Canada
17 August 2007 22:44
Official Quasi Thread Researcher
marus said:
You can use the 10uf non-polars by replacing the 33k resistors with 56k resistors. Just check for reliable operation. You can check this by connecting a 3 volt source to the inpuit of the DC detect circuit. (make sure the circuit is also powered by 24 volts). with 3 volts input the circuit should trip within a few hundred milliseconds.
If the circuit trips during loud bass notes, increase the resistors to 68k and check again for reliable operation.
Cheers