Hi Killjoy99,
At the risk of starting a verbal war ... All you need is insulated cables, teflon doesn't help, solid or silver doesn't help. Use shielded where needed and properly sized current carrying leads. Grounding and lead placement is far more important to the sound and operation.
Let the games begin!
-Chris
At the risk of starting a verbal war ... All you need is insulated cables, teflon doesn't help, solid or silver doesn't help. Use shielded where needed and properly sized current carrying leads. Grounding and lead placement is far more important to the sound and operation.
Let the games begin!
-Chris
As stated earlier, what you have to keep an eye on is the power wires. Make sure you use certified wire for power applications and keep an eye on the curren rating of the wire. A safety factor of at least 2 is a minimum.
Personally I allways use either teflon insulated or glass insulated wire for power applications. If something goes wrong and it gets hot, you're still safe with either of the two, as the wire is definitely not the weakest link anymore, and you could be lucky avoiding a potential capital faillure
Besides the fact that teflon and glass is resistant to heat, both are also mechanically very strong, which again could save you if something goes wrong.
Magura
Personally I allways use either teflon insulated or glass insulated wire for power applications. If something goes wrong and it gets hot, you're still safe with either of the two, as the wire is definitely not the weakest link anymore, and you could be lucky avoiding a potential capital faillure
Besides the fact that teflon and glass is resistant to heat, both are also mechanically very strong, which again could save you if something goes wrong.
Magura
Hey Killjoy-
Steve @ Apex.jr has silver coated teflon insulated braid sheilded co-ax and twisted pair.
http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html
I use the twisted pair for anything longer than a foot, but he co-ax is great for short runs. I will attach a couple of pictures.
Thanks,
Troy
Doah!.. At work, pics are on home PC. I will post the pics later... But the cable is good.. And by the foot, and inexpensive.
Steve @ Apex.jr has silver coated teflon insulated braid sheilded co-ax and twisted pair.
http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html
I use the twisted pair for anything longer than a foot, but he co-ax is great for short runs. I will attach a couple of pictures.
Thanks,
Troy
Doah!.. At work, pics are on home PC. I will post the pics later... But the cable is good.. And by the foot, and inexpensive.
Killjoy99,
If the signal leads are short and separated from power wiring and transformers, unshielded copper wire works great. I've had good luck with the Kimber copper 19 gauge wire. The wire is teflon, strips easily and solders well. I like to twist + and ground together. 19 gauge is more than sufficient for signals. Handmade Electronics is one source for Kimber signal wire. (hndme.com)
If the leads are of length, are run in close proximity of transformers, etc, you'd be better off with some shielded wire. Belden 83319 is nice but expensive. You can buy the copper shielding separately as an option.
Make sure and ground one end of the shield, I won't say which one to avoid wars, just try it both ways and go with what works best.
Hope this helps...
If the signal leads are short and separated from power wiring and transformers, unshielded copper wire works great. I've had good luck with the Kimber copper 19 gauge wire. The wire is teflon, strips easily and solders well. I like to twist + and ground together. 19 gauge is more than sufficient for signals. Handmade Electronics is one source for Kimber signal wire. (hndme.com)
If the leads are of length, are run in close proximity of transformers, etc, you'd be better off with some shielded wire. Belden 83319 is nice but expensive. You can buy the copper shielding separately as an option.
Make sure and ground one end of the shield, I won't say which one to avoid wars, just try it both ways and go with what works best.
Hope this helps...
Hi mhb-
"Make sure and ground one end of the shield, I won't say which one to avoid wars, just try it both ways and go with what works best."
I totally agree with that statement. I have always perferred one method but everyone has an opinion.
As for unsheilded runs, at a MINIMUM I would twist the hot and common leads..
RF is everywhere and quite pervasive. I screened the pwr leads in my GC. As a result, it is DEAD quiet. ZERO noise even at the speaker.
Good luck,
Troy
"Make sure and ground one end of the shield, I won't say which one to avoid wars, just try it both ways and go with what works best."
I totally agree with that statement. I have always perferred one method but everyone has an opinion.
As for unsheilded runs, at a MINIMUM I would twist the hot and common leads..
RF is everywhere and quite pervasive. I screened the pwr leads in my GC. As a result, it is DEAD quiet. ZERO noise even at the speaker.
Good luck,
Troy
Hi Killjoy99,
Most people here seem to recommending common sense. Use wire designed for whatever task and lay it out carefully. I buy my wire where it's most convenient to get to as I travel a lot.
If you have a wiring fault that will overheat wire, a fuse should have gone or the guage is too small. Exotic wire is not required, but if it makes you feel better ...
-Chris
Most people here seem to recommending common sense. Use wire designed for whatever task and lay it out carefully. I buy my wire where it's most convenient to get to as I travel a lot.
If you have a wiring fault that will overheat wire, a fuse should have gone or the guage is too small. Exotic wire is not required, but if it makes you feel better ...
-Chris
Killjoy99 said:
Just have a look at this post.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=492200#post492200
I use CAT5 wire -- bought from Radio Shack or pulled out of a dumpster --
I also have some teflon insulated wire which I purchased at Electronic Surplus --
for power supplies I use the #12 STRANDED from Home Depot in Red, Black and Green.
btw, Bob Pease pointed this out at National Semi's website -- we all know the standard physics equations for L and di/dt, or C and dv/dt, if you have to measure small voltages note that there can be a dC/dt term if the cables are jiggled in the least!
I also have some teflon insulated wire which I purchased at Electronic Surplus --
for power supplies I use the #12 STRANDED from Home Depot in Red, Black and Green.
btw, Bob Pease pointed this out at National Semi's website -- we all know the standard physics equations for L and di/dt, or C and dv/dt, if you have to measure small voltages note that there can be a dC/dt term if the cables are jiggled in the least!
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