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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: cary,n.c.
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thanks BobEllis for your reply! i will try the CL 10. if it works you,
it should for me.
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larryg |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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you meant CL-30 right?
![]() Also, don't forget a mains rated cap across the switch contacts to take care of the inductive pulse when you turn off. That's what really keeps the switch contacts from burning up. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: cary,n.c.
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yes its the CL 30, i failed to mention that. also will place a xcap
accross the primary[wima fkp1-047 and 600ac] thank you!
__________________
larryg |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: cary,n.c.
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the CL 30 works fine! thanks to all who replied!!
__________________
larryg |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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For a DH220 or Leach of similar size I use a CL-30.
For the DH500 I remove the CL-100 and replace with a CL-60, and replace the 2P relay with a 3P type and have the extra contact short out the CL-60 after the RC time constant. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: cary,n.c.
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hi djk, the CL 30 works good. good to know about the hafler 220
as well for this thermistor. thanks!
__________________
larryg |
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