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Old 5th September 2004, 05:33 AM   #1
maxw is offline maxw  United Kingdom
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Thumbs up recommend me an amp to build

Hi,
I want to make a good quality amplifier that will produce about 100-150W/8 Ohm and will do 4 Ohm load.
I can solder fine and have made various other electronics things. I know some basics about amps but not the theory on how they work so I am really loooking for a tried and true design without much trial and error/tweaking. I can make my own single sided PCBs from an image but I am not that confident in doing the layout. I have already made a Gainclone.

I was looking at this one from Jaycar because it was cheap:

Click the image to open in full size.

Refer SC March/May 2000.
This class AB amplfier delivers a clean, low distortion output of 100 Watts RMS into 8 ohms. The amplifier design is rather unique in that the early stages are powered by a regulated power supply to enhance the overall performance.
The output stage is unregulated to ensure good transient response.
Specifications:
* Frequency response: -0.3dB down at 20 Hz; -0.5dB at 20 kHz.
* Input sensitivity: 1.8V RMS (full power into 8 ohms).
* Harmonic distortion: <.006% from 20Hz to 20kHz, (typical <.002%).
* Signal-to-noise ratio: 117dB unweighhted (20Hz to 20kHz); 123dB A-weighted.
* Damping factor: >170 at 100Hz & 1kHz; >60 at 10kHz.
* Stability: Unconditional Short form amplifier kit includes PCB plus all on-board components.
Requires Chassis, HH-8630 heatsink and KC-5289 power supply kit.


But I heard some bad comments on them in these forums.

I was thinking a maybe Pass Labs one?
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Old 5th September 2004, 06:30 AM   #2
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Hi Max,

There are so many good amps to build, but I believe you can't go wrong with an AKSA. I'm very happy with mine. At a guess, I think an AKSA 55 would be more than adequate for your nice DIY speakers. How does your gainclone drive them?

From information on these forums, the Pass Labs ones are very good also, but are generally class A amps unlike the SC amp which is class AB.
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Old 5th September 2004, 07:09 AM   #3
maxw is offline maxw  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by grege
Hi Max,

There are so many good amps to build, but I believe you can't go wrong with an AKSA. I'm very happy with mine. At a guess, I think an AKSA 55 would be more than adequate for your nice DIY speakers. How does your gainclone drive them?

From information on these forums, the Pass Labs ones are very good also, but are generally class A amps unlike the SC amp which is class AB.
Hi Greg,
The AKSA 100 looks good but from the FAQ it looks like you have to buy the whole thing as a kit which costs $AUD690 which is alot, probably too much to pay up front.

I haven't tried my GC with my speakers yet as I am still sourcing parts for its case. But the amps I am wanting to make from this thread will be used to power a pair of 12" subs, hence the more power required
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Old 5th September 2004, 08:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
But the amps I am wanting to make from this thread will be used to power a pair of 12" subs, hence the more power required
A piece of vital imformation, that's does make a difference.

Quote:
...the whole thing as a kit which costs $AUD690 which is alot...
Arh, another piece of information, a budget a lot less than $AUD690.

Sorry for the misleading information in my previous post.
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Old 5th September 2004, 09:05 AM   #5
maxw is offline maxw  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by grege

A piece of vital imformation, that's does make a difference.
Arh, another piece of information, a budget a lot less than $AUD690.
Sorry for the misleading information in my previous post.
OK, im sorry, I should have said more

Anyone used these?
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/ampkits.htm
They have good specs and are a cheap place to start
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Old 5th September 2004, 10:14 AM   #6
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Default Shameless plug

Well you might have a look at www.hypex.nl and look for the UcD180 module. At 60 euros each they are a steal (well compared to $690 at least). Unfortunately they won't give you much construction pleasure - they're finished modules and require only a power supply to go.
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Old 5th September 2004, 10:21 AM   #7
maxw is offline maxw  United Kingdom
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Default Re: Shameless plug

Quote:
Originally posted by Bruno Putzeys
Well you might have a look at www.hypex.nl and look for the UcD180 module. At 60 euros each they are a steal (well compared to $690 at least). Unfortunately they won't give you much construction pleasure - they're finished modules and require only a power supply to go.
Yes, I was just looking at those, they look very cute
And they are quite cheap too.
Are class D amps still confined to sub woofers?
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Old 6th September 2004, 09:11 AM   #8
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Default Re: Re: Shameless plug

Quote:
Originally posted by maxw
Are class D amps still confined to sub woofers?
This situation has changed dramatically over the last 10...15 years.
The specs of the hypex modules show that they are equally at home at 20kHz as at 20Hz.
For user testimonies (sound quality etc), have a look at the thread titled 'UCD180 questions'.
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Old 6th September 2004, 10:27 AM   #9
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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Default if you're on a budget......

you could do worse than use a ESP p3a, you'll need to furnish it with a TNT style psu for the best bass response (more critical than the amp itself IMHO). In my experience, the Tranny size, C size and use of one bridge per rail are important, the other details less so, especially if it's only for sub F's.

ESP p3 gives details of how to use more o/p devices, which may be useful given the load you are contemplating.

I am using this setup with 30-0-30 Tr's and bog-standard components (bar MJ15003/4 o/p devices in the p3a) with 88 dB/W speakers and power is really not an issue, even in large rooms.
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Old 6th September 2004, 12:59 PM   #10
maxw is offline maxw  United Kingdom
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Default Re: if you're on a budget......

Quote:
Originally posted by Mark25
you could do worse than use a ESP p3a, you'll need to furnish it with a TNT style psu for the best bass response (more critical than the amp itself IMHO). In my experience, the Tranny size, C size and use of one bridge per rail are important, the other details less so, especially if it's only for sub F's.

ESP p3 gives details of how to use more o/p devices, which may be useful given the load you are contemplating.

I am using this setup with 30-0-30 Tr's and bog-standard components (bar MJ15003/4 o/p devices in the p3a) with 88 dB/W speakers and power is really not an issue, even in large rooms.
Sounds good! did you make your own PCB?
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