Hi,
I want to make a good quality amplifier that will produce about 100-150W/8 Ohm and will do 4 Ohm load.
I can solder fine and have made various other electronics things. I know some basics about amps but not the theory on how they work so I am really loooking for a tried and true design without much trial and error/tweaking. I can make my own single sided PCBs from an image but I am not that confident in doing the layout. I have already made a Gainclone.
I was looking at this one from Jaycar because it was cheap:
Refer SC March/May 2000.
This class AB amplfier delivers a clean, low distortion output of 100 Watts RMS into 8 ohms. The amplifier design is rather unique in that the early stages are powered by a regulated power supply to enhance the overall performance.
The output stage is unregulated to ensure good transient response.
Specifications:
* Frequency response: -0.3dB down at 20 Hz; -0.5dB at 20 kHz.
* Input sensitivity: 1.8V RMS (full power into 8 ohms).
* Harmonic distortion: <.006% from 20Hz to 20kHz, (typical <.002%).
* Signal-to-noise ratio: 117dB unweighhted (20Hz to 20kHz); 123dB A-weighted.
* Damping factor: >170 at 100Hz & 1kHz; >60 at 10kHz.
* Stability: Unconditional Short form amplifier kit includes PCB plus all on-board components.
Requires Chassis, HH-8630 heatsink and KC-5289 power supply kit.
But I heard some bad comments on them in these forums.
I was thinking a maybe Pass Labs one?
I want to make a good quality amplifier that will produce about 100-150W/8 Ohm and will do 4 Ohm load.
I can solder fine and have made various other electronics things. I know some basics about amps but not the theory on how they work so I am really loooking for a tried and true design without much trial and error/tweaking. I can make my own single sided PCBs from an image but I am not that confident in doing the layout. I have already made a Gainclone.
I was looking at this one from Jaycar because it was cheap:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Refer SC March/May 2000.
This class AB amplfier delivers a clean, low distortion output of 100 Watts RMS into 8 ohms. The amplifier design is rather unique in that the early stages are powered by a regulated power supply to enhance the overall performance.
The output stage is unregulated to ensure good transient response.
Specifications:
* Frequency response: -0.3dB down at 20 Hz; -0.5dB at 20 kHz.
* Input sensitivity: 1.8V RMS (full power into 8 ohms).
* Harmonic distortion: <.006% from 20Hz to 20kHz, (typical <.002%).
* Signal-to-noise ratio: 117dB unweighhted (20Hz to 20kHz); 123dB A-weighted.
* Damping factor: >170 at 100Hz & 1kHz; >60 at 10kHz.
* Stability: Unconditional Short form amplifier kit includes PCB plus all on-board components.
Requires Chassis, HH-8630 heatsink and KC-5289 power supply kit.
But I heard some bad comments on them in these forums.
I was thinking a maybe Pass Labs one?
Hi Max,
There are so many good amps to build, but I believe you can't go wrong with an AKSA. I'm very happy with mine. At a guess, I think an AKSA 55 would be more than adequate for your nice DIY speakers. How does your gainclone drive them?
From information on these forums, the Pass Labs ones are very good also, but are generally class A amps unlike the SC amp which is class AB.
There are so many good amps to build, but I believe you can't go wrong with an AKSA. I'm very happy with mine. At a guess, I think an AKSA 55 would be more than adequate for your nice DIY speakers. How does your gainclone drive them?
From information on these forums, the Pass Labs ones are very good also, but are generally class A amps unlike the SC amp which is class AB.
grege said:
Hi Greg,
The AKSA 100 looks good but from the FAQ it looks like you have to buy the whole thing as a kit which costs $AUD690
which is alot, probably too much to pay up front.I haven't tried my GC with my speakers yet as I am still sourcing parts for its case. But the amps I am wanting to make from this thread will be used to power a pair of 12" subs, hence the more power required
grege said:
A piece of vital imformation, that's does make a difference.
Arh, another piece of information, a budget a lot less than $AUD690.
Sorry for the misleading information in my previous post.
OK, im sorry, I should have said more
Anyone used these?
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/ampkits.htm
They have good specs and are a cheap place to start
Shameless plug
Well you might have a look at www.hypex.nl and look for the UcD180 module. At 60 euros each they are a steal (well compared to $690 at least). Unfortunately they won't give you much construction pleasure - they're finished modules and require only a power supply to go.
Well you might have a look at www.hypex.nl and look for the UcD180 module. At 60 euros each they are a steal (well compared to $690 at least). Unfortunately they won't give you much construction pleasure - they're finished modules and require only a power supply to go.
if you're on a budget......
you could do worse than use a ESP p3a, you'll need to furnish it with a TNT style psu for the best bass response (more critical than the amp itself IMHO). In my experience, the Tranny size, C size and use of one bridge per rail are important, the other details less so, especially if it's only for sub F's.
ESP p3 gives details of how to use more o/p devices, which may be useful given the load you are contemplating.
I am using this setup with 30-0-30 Tr's and bog-standard components (bar MJ15003/4 o/p devices in the p3a) with 88 dB/W speakers and power is really not an issue, even in large rooms.
you could do worse than use a ESP p3a, you'll need to furnish it with a TNT style psu for the best bass response (more critical than the amp itself IMHO). In my experience, the Tranny size, C size and use of one bridge per rail are important, the other details less so, especially if it's only for sub F's.
ESP p3 gives details of how to use more o/p devices, which may be useful given the load you are contemplating.
I am using this setup with 30-0-30 Tr's and bog-standard components (bar MJ15003/4 o/p devices in the p3a) with 88 dB/W speakers and power is really not an issue, even in large rooms.
It does too, and that's through pro-audio drivers. The bass wants for nothing, when used full range the mid is good, the trebble ok (for SS), stagedepth however is non-existing. I did not use the pcb as i built mine into an old amp case/heatsink, i used vero board. I only used every other track on the vero board and cut un-used track parts out of the circuit, I also ran solder over all the used tracks. Also all 0v's are hardwired straight back to the star earth point and the o/p device supplies are hardwired.
Unfortunatly all of the above makes the amp look quite a mess, but it all effects the sound too.......
If i was starting from scratch, i'd probably use the pcb from ESP. It would have the advantage that the loop areas for the amp are smaller, something my design is not laid out optimally for. The pcb is also said to be a better design than the "free" one and you get extra documentation too, all good.
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
Unfortunatly all of the above makes the amp look quite a mess, but it all effects the sound too.......
If i was starting from scratch, i'd probably use the pcb from ESP. It would have the advantage that the loop areas for the amp are smaller, something my design is not laid out optimally for. The pcb is also said to be a better design than the "free" one and you get extra documentation too, all good.
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
bearing in mind; my experiences are with a relatively easy 8 ohm load, someone may well have a better suggestion for a 4 ohm sub. ESP has a SUB AMP p68 but it's not recommended as a first amp to build.
Hi maxw
I've built the Jaycar KC5210 for a small sub amp and was surprised with it's performance as I wasn't expecting much ....... not too bad at all and a great S/N ratio.
I'd suggest the ESP P101 as you could build the low power version which does 100W @ 8 ohms and 150W @ 4 ohms. This is one exceptional amp and you do need to buy the boards from Rod (worth every cent). If you want more power just add the additional Mosfets, a cap and a couple of resistors and your on your way to 180W @ 8 ohms and 250W @ 4 ohms. Both versions are quite straight forward to build.
http://sound.westhost.com/project101.htm
I've built the Jaycar KC5210 for a small sub amp and was surprised with it's performance as I wasn't expecting much ....... not too bad at all and a great S/N ratio.
I'd suggest the ESP P101 as you could build the low power version which does 100W @ 8 ohms and 150W @ 4 ohms. This is one exceptional amp and you do need to buy the boards from Rod (worth every cent). If you want more power just add the additional Mosfets, a cap and a couple of resistors and your on your way to 180W @ 8 ohms and 250W @ 4 ohms. Both versions are quite straight forward to build.
http://sound.westhost.com/project101.htm
m0tion said:
I think this is the one I'll go with, thanks m0tion
. The super Leach looks pretty neat too. I picket up 2x 300VA 2x40V transformers and some 37000uF caps really cheap which is good. Maybe I'll still go with the P3A, not 100% sure yet, just finishing my GC case.....Thanks heaps guys
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