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Old 18th August 2004, 03:29 AM   #1
hotscot is offline hotscot  Scotland
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Default Marantz PM 66SE KI Signature. Newbie Question

Hi, I'm Alan, from Scotland but live in California.

My beloved 66SE ki amp has stopped working, the indicator diodes go on but there's no audio output from either speaker outputs or headphone socket.

I'm handy with an iron but have never used a multimeter although I'd be prepared to have a go if I had a pointer.

Any chance anyone could point me in the right direction? Do I need schematics for example?
Cheers
Alan
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Old 18th August 2004, 07:02 AM   #2
hjelm is offline hjelm  Sweden
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I had two problems with my pm66se (not KI).
The power switch didn't lock in the on position, i was fooled a long time since the led lit up and didn't go out until the caps had discharged.

The second was the power to the relays. There is a distinct click that should be heard when you power it on. If not then it could be the +24v feed that is broken.

BTW does anyone know anything more about theAN7062P circuit in the pm66se other than the little info on the datasheet from panasonic.
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Old 22nd September 2004, 05:10 PM   #3
miffed is offline miffed  United Kingdom
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Default Arghhh... mine too!

Don't suppose you have any luck with fixing the problem ?

My PM-66SE has just developed the same problem...
Power light is on, but no output from speakers etc... Its also missing the "clunk" sound it used to make shortly after power on...

Help! ??!
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Old 22nd September 2004, 05:32 PM   #4
Netlist is offline Netlist  Belgium
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Guys,
Check R802 or/and R807 (47R)
Let us know if that worked.

/Hugo
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Old 22nd September 2004, 06:05 PM   #5
hotscot is offline hotscot  Scotland
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Default PM 66SE

Hugo..what does that mean in simple terms please, I presume you mean check some components? and where do we find those components.

Thanks
Alan
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Old 22nd September 2004, 06:46 PM   #6
miffed is offline miffed  United Kingdom
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I would guess R802 and R807 are resistors on the board. No idea what "47R" is though!
Will try and pull the cover off the amp tonight and have a look...

Hugo, why R802 and R807 ? Did you pick these at random or do you have experience of the amp ?

Cheers
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Old 22nd September 2004, 07:47 PM   #7
Netlist is offline Netlist  Belgium
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If the components numbers are not marked on the PCB, you'll need a schematic.
I don't have it
If they are, look for resistor R802 or/and R807 which is (are) 47ohm. They could be broken.
Here's another tip if you have no access to docs:
Check for resistors lifted from the PCB like on the picture.
Measure the voltage on both sides with respect to ground. If you have for example 12V on one side and nothing or very little on the other side you know its broken. Measure these type of safety resistors with an ohm meter. Make sure you turned the amp off before ohm measurements.
I don't know the amp, the tip comes from a fault database.

/Hugo
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Old 22nd September 2004, 08:15 PM   #8
miffed is offline miffed  United Kingdom
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47R = 47ohm - D'oh!

Thanks for the tips Hugo, will check it out first thing tomorrow...
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Old 27th October 2004, 09:27 AM   #9
hjelm is offline hjelm  Sweden
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Sorry i missed the question: Did it work out. In my case it was the 802 resistor. It is located close to the rectifier bridge and the main caps. If you have the big elcaps to the right of the rectifier bridge the resistor is directly below. It is connected (via pcb and jumper) to the collector (middle leg) of the transistor located close by.

So this is a common fault, didn't know that.

The result if it is broken is that you are missing the +24V feed, i think there is some markings on the board indcating which one it is.

It seems this resistor is meant to work as a fuse?

Happy fault finding.
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Old 27th May 2006, 07:02 PM   #10
Kajman is offline Kajman  United Kingdom
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Default Thanks guys I fixed my PM66SE KI

Thanks a lot to all those who suggested R802. My PM66SE KI has been gathering dust (No output but lights come on). No one could help me with the schematics so I could not do a thing.

Today I measured R802 after reading the suggestions given and the resistor had blown. I managed to get it sorted with a 5p resistor within 5 minutes (I just cut the blown one with some cutters and soldered a new one on top without opening the base). Its up and running now.

Thanks people
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