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Ewok_Poacher 3rd August 2004 08:37 PM

1000w car amp
I want to build a 1k watt car audio amp (The jlw6's and mb quart's are hungry). I am looking at the aussie amp.
This amp I am guessing is not for car audio, so I would need to build a switching power supply for it , right? If anyone has plans for a high power car amp please let me know.

cunningham 4th August 2004 12:16 AM

If the circuit outputs 1000W of power, then assuming it is 100% efficient(and it never is) than it will dissapate 1000W of heat. 2000W from a 12V source? 2000/12=166A. You had better install about 3 alternators, caps, and a couple of batteries!!!:bigeyes: then again......why try to damage your hearing?

Tensop 4th August 2004 12:22 AM

did you even search

this question has been asked a bazillion times before

purplepeople 4th August 2004 01:10 AM

Whoa, easy everyone.... looks like someone new!

Ewok: is this 1000W peak or 1000W RMS?

If peak then plan on needing power supply with output of at least 300W. Choice of power supply is important... a linear supply will need at least 600W input for the usual ~50% efficiency. An efficienct DC-DC switching convertor might be 90% efficient so you will still need at least 325W output from power supply. Cunningham is correct about you requirements for an automobile. For AC conversion at least you have some room to move.

If 1000W RMS, then your power requirements change dramatically. The most powerful amp that is easy to find is the Bryston 7B. It is rated for 600W into 8 ohms and 900W RMS into 4 ohms and dissipates 1980W at maximum. That is 100W more than a 15amp circuit breaker at 120V. In other words, at maximum sustained power it will trip circuits - and yes, I've seen it happen.

Whether you make your 1000W amp for 13.8VDC or 120VAC power supply, the power draw will be the same. As for whether your speakers can handle it, I would be surprised if any of the so-called car drivers can handle a 7B giving full-on, never mind the fact that the volume may be a permanently damaging 110dB at your ears.


One more thing... Tensop's response is true, even though it is somewhat tense. Search works fairly well and there is ton of info on these big watt car amps.

purplepeople 4th August 2004 01:30 AM

I got curious about the drivers you mentioned and looked them up. According to the JL Audio site, the biggest of the series 13W6v2 is good for 500W continuous at 4 ohms. Not only would the Bryston probably kill this thing, but it clearly voids the warranty.


audioPT 4th August 2004 01:37 PM

... remember:

If you are trying to go into SPL championchips, then you must find some installer and BUY amps starting at top level of Rockford Fosgate, JBL, etc... and as cunningham says: 3 or more alternators, 10 batteries and a fortune in caps...

If is just to listen loud music (techno, hip-hop, etc.), anything is sufficient, like my Macrom amplifier ;) 4x200W, with 2 channels bridged to the sub...

MB Quart and JL subs work very well with 100W :D , but 300W are more welcome...

:att'n: :att'n: :att'n: :att'n: :att'n:
Long exposition to over 110dB will kill your ears and maybe will create visceral problems ;)

rkc7 4th August 2004 03:29 PM

I have a 12" Momo/Polk sub running off of a USAmps 400 amp and a "52watt x 4" receiver and this provides enough sound to drown out highway noise with the windows down at 80mph . The sub is only getting about 200w RMS maybe, and I think the power output is limited by speaker excursion rather than the amp's output, but it still is way loud enough. Are you trying to make one of those systems that make bystanders deaf? Personally, I think that's too much and think those kind of people should be more considerate of others. But if your intentions are for SPL competitions, then good luck with your endeavors. Other than that, 1000w RMS in a vehicle for transportation is very much unnecessary and/or implausible considering the stress on your motor/alternator/battery and the rattling that will result making just about everything come loose and probably fall off, not to mention the discomfort you and your passengers will endure while listening. Sorry to be like this, but I live in an area where every other car has enough bass to shake my house when driving by at 3am, and it's really annoying.

Ewok_Poacher 4th August 2004 04:14 PM

my stereo
I have 4 jl10w6's --- 4 mb quart 4 1/4 's ---- and 2 mb quart seperates,
If each sub can handle 400w and are ran at 300w thats 1200w right there and we havent even touched on the quarts yet.

As for respecting others -
My stereo is mostly for show , I actually listen to music more along the lines of social distortion and less than jake, when not at a show it is turned up just loud enough to drown out the exhaust.

A handmade amp in the civic I think would be an attention grabber and give me a few more points when showing. it does however have to get off like a cheap ***** when turned up at the show or judges wil just laugh and wonder why I didnt get a fosgate.

Oh yeh it's fast to javascript:smilie(':D')
Big Grin

Thank you for those who didnt flame me and actually gave me some input on this -- Purple People-- AudioPT-- Cunningham

Ewok_Poacher 4th August 2004 04:22 PM

car amps
I forgot to adress the search comment --
I searched for a couple days before posting and couldnt find much information on big car audio amps. I found alot of class a amps for home , concert or D.J. use but very little for car audio.

If you know someplace that I have overlooked with more car audio info please fill me in, I am not real bright you have to work with me.javascript:smilie(':)')

cm961 4th August 2004 04:46 PM

That's why I like the open hatch back cars like Jeeps, fastbacks that have open access to trunk. I have a daytona and I don't need to give my sub any power to hear it (well, road noise is loud) because its in the same compartment as me. So you hear it on the outside. You can't even feel the body panels shake because its so low in power.

Horns are good too for saving power, but I think the drivers need a rather long excursion to take it.


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