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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have serious problem with my mcintosh MC2105 power amp. With both left and right volumes at the same level the left output from the power amp has a significantly less amount of gain as the right output. I would say about 20 to 30 dB difference. The decibel meter for the left shows this gain difference between the 2 outputs. I try to crank up the left to compensate but then it distorts (noticeably) without that much gain. BTW the speakers I'm using with this are the ESS amt-1a (electro-static). I've tested the amp on diff speakers with the same result and different inputs. For awhile this setup worked well in the living room but then I put the amp in the basement for about 3 years when I got my surround sound and recently I tried getting this same setup to work again. I would really like to get this to work again.
Any ideas on what the problem is? Should I try to get it repaired or should I try looking for a diff mcintosh amp (newer)? I really miss listening to this amp (well more like the ESS speakers). Maybe I should try to look for a slightly used newer model. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok, after alot of logical thinking
I also measured the input POTS and both are same resistance values on the meter, can I trust my meter or should I replace them anyway? Does anyone have some ideas of what else might be wrong? Does mcintosh sell these small boards seperately or does anyone knwo where I can get a used board that works? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
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another easy thing to do
also try swapping the driver (??) boards on the top of the amp between left and right channels to see if the problem follows the boards. these slide in and out like PCI cards on a computer. might do well with cleaning the copper contacts too. my mc2100 had a cap that needed replacing on one of these cards
__________________
"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was incorrect about the decibel meters and headphones working off that little board. I switched the two output boards and guess what... the bad channel switch from left to right. Here are the two boards.
These boards have different components on them. I asked my dad if this amp was ever repaired and he said yes. Apparently when this amp was bought he moved into a brand new apartment and the builders mistakenly put 220volts for his appliance lines. This blew up the amp So, the amp was then repaired but with different components (equivalents really). I checked all the resistors and the caps and the little transistors and all of them seem to be in working order. Then I flipped the board over to look at the solderings. Whoever repaired this board must have been an intern for mcintosh. There's a few coroded connections, one is barely connected to the board and there's a few cold solder spots. I hope I can repaired these connections without making a new PCB board for it. Heres a pic of the solder side...it doesnt do it justice but it's not a good soldering job. I realize that age can have an affect on this but the other board is older than the one thats broke and still works perfectly. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
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try setting a hot solder iron against all the suspicious looking solder joints and letting the solder re-flow
i still suspect you have a bad component somewhere on the driver board glad i could help
__________________
"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-1310.html
The drivers, no longer available from McIntosh, are available from Magic Parts for $11 each, or see above post for sub. also read: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/am...ges/49299.html |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Do you have a product number for magic parts?
Is their website magicparts.com? I think that is the best course of action for this amp and for myself. I'm probably going to buy 2 brand new boards for this amp and then use the old ones for spare parts. Of course if magic parts doesnt have these boards anymore then I'll have to replace components This is so great that this amp is going to work again. I miss it's...perfection |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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From the post you didn't read:
PNP RCA 40409 .7(Ic)/90(V) TO-39 Driver Transistor w/heat sink RCA 40410 .7(Ic)/90(V) TO-39 Send us an email to dealers@magicparts.com and include your zip code in your subject line. We will promptly reply with the dealers in your area. "I'm probably going to buy 2 brand new boards " Tell me another one. McIntosh quit making that amplifier over 25 years ago. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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well I mistakenly thought you were speaking of a complete board that magic parts sells. I did read the posts but like I said I thought you were speaking of a complete board.
Thanx everyone for helping me out. I'll give magic parts an email with that information and get those new transistors. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Malaysia
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Hi,
I believe Audioclassics carries both the input and the driver boards! A bit pricey though! You can check them out at audioclassics.com. Hope this helps. ckt |
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