My Leach amp,take a look - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Solid State

Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th May 2002, 08:56 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Sweden
Nice work Igor!

it look's great!

Are you satisfied with the sound ???

I raise the same concern as Peranders, and from the look of it it seams that the groundpoint is thetopside of the fasteningbolt of the transformer....
This means that your groudpoint is not at the same potential as the case...

This bolt actually becomes a separate winding of the transformer, about one halv turn.... Ie the topside of the bolt is moving in voltage in refernce to the bottomside of it.....

I have a friend who built a amp with two transformers and used centrumbolts to fasten those and a rail that was mounted on top of these.... This meant that there was a closed circuit of quite good conducting area formed by the bolts, the chassi and the bar.

We had truble understanding why the fuses blew if he had the primarys winded one way until we realised what was going on... , by shifting phase of one transformer primary the problem was solved.....
(What happened was that the bolts and the rail created a shortcicued winding through the two transformes.., by changing phase, the transformes are now working in phase with eachoter instead beeing shortcircued by eachoter...)


Keep the good work up!

Whats up next??

/Klas
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th May 2002, 04:50 AM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Harlowton, MT, USA
Congradulations! Looks great.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th May 2002, 01:35 AM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Slovenia
Sound is great and central ground point is connected to case.I just have separate wire connecting CGP to case.Heatsinks and almost everything metal is connected to CGP.

I must take photos now...nice VU meter with blue light.

That metal thing between speakers...russian heavy cannon,antiaircraft,12mm caliber...nice huh?

Next...probaly class A.
__________________
Watching beginnings of social decay....
Virus - Iron Maiden
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th May 2002, 02:07 AM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Slovenia
Default Nothing!?

So...no comments?
__________________
Watching beginnings of social decay....
Virus - Iron Maiden
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th June 2002, 08:16 AM   #15
Eccu is offline Eccu  Finland
diyAudio Member
 
Eccu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Finland/Oulu
Nice case design...
__________________
right way boy... u sold farm and bougth booze
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th June 2002, 08:20 AM   #16
JoeBob is offline JoeBob  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
JoeBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, you sure did a great job on the chasis. I wish I did something like that for my projects, but I'm unfortunatel too lazy, good 'ol Al for me... If it sounds as good as it looks I'd say you're set.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th June 2002, 09:19 AM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
Circlotron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
[QUOTE]Originally posted by peranders
[B]shadow, why have you shielded the toroid with copper? Isn't it more sensible to use a magnetic material in order to shield magnetic field? I think it's looks nice with copper though.

If you want to shield a steady magnetic field then use iron or mumetal or some other ferrous stuff. However, if you want to shield a varying magnetic field such as might come out of an EI transformer, use metal that has good electrical conductivity e.g. copper. The stray field induces current into the copper, this current has it's own field which then opposes the stray field. Something like that. Ask Mr Lenz and his Law. Anyway, iron for fixed fields, copper for AC fields.

Also, single point earth is great, but not through transformer hole. There will be a voltage difference between chassis and the top of the bolt.

GP.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th June 2002, 10:38 AM   #18
diyAudio Member
 
Lisandro_P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Argentina
Send a message via ICQ to Lisandro_P
Looks great, congratulations!
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th June 2002, 12:48 PM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Slovenia
Thanks for suggestions,i get slight hum maybe that CGP shoud be floating and not attached to the fastening bolt.

I must take pictures now with VU meter i think you like it.
Btw:ALPS pot is worth extra money(30) and i cannot imagine DIY project without one.
__________________
Watching beginnings of social decay....
Virus - Iron Maiden
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My Leach Amp Clone (LEACH 150) panson_hk Solid State 32 22nd May 2014 12:25 PM
High Current Leach/leach super amp bowdown Solid State 41 2nd March 2011 03:15 PM
anyone have leach PCB? ilyash Group Buys 2 7th September 2007 11:36 AM
Leach Superamp vs Leach 4.5 Samuel Jayaraj Solid State 4 26th October 2002 10:20 AM
Leach amp vs super Leach amp supernet Solid State 0 21st February 2002 11:16 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:39 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2