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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have to run 2 x 15 feet of those, between preamp and amps. Any recommendation on good sounding, balanced interconnect cables, that won't break my pocket?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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The obvious answer is to make your own using
high quality microphone cable or similar. My opinion is DIY interconnects are much better than cheapo stuff and so near the silly stuff in performance its not worth worrying about. Some claim that plastic XLR's actually sound better than high grade metal ones, but I'd just go with whats fitted to the pre amp and power amp. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
Peter, I agree, build your own. And while you are at it use 3 pin locking DIN connectors instead of XLR. Much less metal mass. Naim and DNM have been using the locking DIN for years. The Deltron are a little better sounding than the Switchcraft. George |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was planning on making my own, but I'm still looking for suggestion on the wire to be used. Percy is selling this:
>>CANARE Star Quad: The L4E6S four conductor (21ga) 6mm D microphone cable makes an excellent balanced or single ended budget audio interconnect and has exceptionally good EM & RF rejection, 44Ω, 57pF/foot, black 6mm D… 95¢ mono foot << But I guess I could make better than that. I might also consider: > DH Labs BL-Ag "balanced" interconnect cable, 2 x 23 awg w/shield and drain wire $11.95/foot (pure 99.99% solid-core silver, foamed teflon, tape-wrap dielectric) NOTE: Custom made for PCx (Connex) by DH LABS < but the price is rather high. Anybody had good experience with soemthing in between those twp price ranges? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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I always find it strange when people simply want to spend
more money thinking it "must be better", and therefore look for something inbetween sensible and silly, the fact is that anything inbetween has the worst business case. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Actually, I have some experience with DH Labs cables, and they are better. What I did in my previous post, was simply describing possible choices, without describing what is better. I only said I could do better, which is not far from the truth.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Van Damme single pair installation grade cable works well for me, but I don't know if you can get it easily over the pond...
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
At this length, one cannot really experiment , as those cables have to be bought and the required length makes it even more complicated to compare with other types. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
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Quote:
I have used the Canare L4E6S, and the Mogami 2534. Both are a star-quad configuration and have similar properties. I usually use the Mogami 2534 for both my mic cables, and balanced interconnects in my studio, but the Canare sounds every bit as good and is less money. I just use the Mogami because it is a bit more rugged, and I am moving cables around alot. As far as connectors, I have never liked the plastic versions. I prefer to use the Neutrik NC3MX-B for male XLR's and the Neutrik NC3FX-B for female XLR's. The -B stand for black anodized with gold pins. The nickle ones sound pretty much the same, but can corrode over time. The gold pins should be used wherever the connector will be used in a permanent install, as the self-cleaning action of removing and reconnecting the connector is not happening and non-gold pins can corrode over time. Cheers, Zach
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Ahhhhhhhhh...............That's what that button does. |
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#10 | |
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa Daniels San,
Quote:
For the Cat 5 use one pair as signal pin2/3 (hot/cold), the other three pairs are being connected together as pin 1 (ground), with the shield biased to a suitable voltage and connected via a suitable bypass cap combo (a stack of 0612 Ceramics seems a good idea) to pin 1 on both sides of the cable. For the CT-125 (Satellite Coax, airspaced NOT FOAMED) the same principles apply, except that the copper conductor links the pin 1 ground connections and the two bare, uncoated silver wires cover the signal. Screen connections as before. Adding a 620R/680pF "terminator" on the receiving side might also be a good idea if your source has low output impedance given the length. Sayonara |
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