If you want to check if it's hissing pot or not connect the input pin with the output pin on the pot and you will effectively have the pot out of the signal path. The output pin is usually the one in the center and the input pin is the the one on the right (when the pins are facing down and you are facing the shaft)
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Greatz
In my old valve radio brand Greatz (dated ~1940) ther is one volume pot very high resistance i think 1MOhm and gues whatot in 2002 is still quiet and works OK.Radio works but when get hot sound become distort cause resistors and capacitors are almost destroyed by time.
Brand Greatz is german,and has produce high quality products for that thime,german ppl here probaly remember,specialy older ones
Just something to think about.
In my old valve radio brand Greatz (dated ~1940) ther is one volume pot very high resistance i think 1MOhm and gues what
ot in 2002 is still quiet and works OK.Radio works but when get hot sound become distort cause resistors and capacitors are almost destroyed by time.Brand Greatz is german,and has produce high quality products for that thime,german ppl here probaly remember,specialy older ones
Just something to think about.
Harry, Aussies don't drink Fosters - We export because we don't like it.
In Oz, it is otherwise known as 'Girl's Beer'.
Regarding using WD40 - Repeat after me 'Never, Never , Ever use this junk on electronics !'.
Reason is that it dries and leaves a tough film on the carbon track that guarantees that the wiper makes intermittent contact.
I have found Cramolin Contaclean to work fine on rotary pots and faders.
I believe Caig Deoxit to be very good also.
Regards, Eric.
In Oz, it is otherwise known as 'Girl's Beer'.
Regarding using WD40 - Repeat after me 'Never, Never , Ever use this junk on electronics !'.
Reason is that it dries and leaves a tough film on the carbon track that guarantees that the wiper makes intermittent contact.
I have found Cramolin Contaclean to work fine on rotary pots and faders.
I believe Caig Deoxit to be very good also.
Regards, Eric.
Thanks Jocko,
We also have the 'Darwin Stubby'.
The don't think these are for the 'girls'.
I don't know this guy, but here is some Perth local humour -
http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/2487/photos.html
Scroll down to find the Darwin Stubby.
We also have the 'Darwin Stubby'.
The don't think these are for the 'girls'.
I don't know this guy, but here is some Perth local humour -
http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/2487/photos.html
Scroll down to find the Darwin Stubby.
Jokes aside..
I recently got a nad 3020 amp. it was making a right noise when I turned it up or down, changing the volume of current actually sent to the speakers, and presumbly the amp.
I took the top of a metal ended pen. and used it as a blowing device. I blew all the debris out of the volume pot. and now it turns up and down smoooothly.
however.... I also blew the balance pot, but the balance is even between the two speakers with it set waaay over to one side. meaning it needs some fix,
Im wondering if I can drop a bit of ballistoil? in there as mentioned somewhere earlyer in this post. I heard it can be used to clean electronics.
I recently got a nad 3020 amp. it was making a right noise when I turned it up or down, changing the volume of current actually sent to the speakers, and presumbly the amp.
I took the top of a metal ended pen. and used it as a blowing device. I blew all the debris out of the volume pot. and now it turns up and down smoooothly.
however.... I also blew the balance pot, but the balance is even between the two speakers with it set waaay over to one side. meaning it needs some fix,
Im wondering if I can drop a bit of ballistoil? in there as mentioned somewhere earlyer in this post. I heard it can be used to clean electronics.
Man, this thread is old enough to drive in some places.
EDIT: I forgot - excessive scratchiness may also be caused by leaky adjacent coupling caps. No pot on the world is going to be quiet if it's got DC on it.
Not really recommended - apparently it tends to give a pot a bit of a cauliflower appearance after a while. Not dangerous per se, just a mess. Deoxit D5 is more like it. And stay away from WD40.
EDIT: I forgot - excessive scratchiness may also be caused by leaky adjacent coupling caps. No pot on the world is going to be quiet if it's got DC on it.
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exactly, and this is often overlooked. Such caps in the signal path in front of the potentiometer are in most cases electrolytics with capacity between 0,47uF and 6,8uF. Replacing by WIMA MKS like those under
MKS2-50 2,2m: Folienkondensator, 2,2mF, 50V, RM5 bei reichelt elektronik
is the best solution.
For cleaning for me the best solution is "CRC's Kontakt 60" under
KONTAKT 2010: Kontaktspray, Kontakt 60, 100 ml, oxid- und sulfidlosend bei reichelt elektronik
but only in cases, when the potentiometer has been completely disassembled for cleaning - go to
Potentiometer kratzt – was tun? | good-old-hifi
and
KRM Music Systems - Potentiometer Cleaning Showdown
I blew the volume pot with a pen and that fixed it, however the balance was waay off to one side. This has now righted itself and both the speakers are at the same level with the balance knob in the center. I think it was probably because when I blew That pot I had a mint locket in my mouth so there was likely some moisure effecting it and it just needed time to dry.
I fixed a volume pot before with a hoover but in time the scraaaaaaatchyness had returned but not soo much.
makes sence I see to also use a good cleaner as well. thankyou.
I fixed a volume pot before with a hoover but in time the scraaaaaaatchyness had returned but not soo much.
makes sence I see to also use a good cleaner as well. thankyou.
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