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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Silicon Valley
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Quote:
For the input pair, you want the highest beta lowest noise parts you can use, which is not usually consistent with high breakdown voltage. What is really needed here? The input pair sees only half the rail to rail voltage (unless something is broken). The bases are tied to ground through low resistances, and with the currents I assumed they will be very close 0v. For best performance I would try a 60v dual transistor. You can certainly leave the MPS8099s since their 80v rating is adequate and they have decent characteristics otherwise. The next step would be the 150v devices like the 2n5401/2N5551, with slightly worse parameters. The MPSA42/92 pair has low beta and I would not use them unless the rail voltages were much higher. |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Left Coast
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"The MPSA42/92 pair has low beta and I would not use them unless the rail voltages were much higher."
Good point. However the beta isn't quite as low as the minimum figures on the data sheet, I just check a batch I had and they were all about 70 which may or may not be sufficient. What I likew about them is their consistancy. At least from my supplier I can get usually get an exact beta match with in about the first four pieces. I just check my latest batch of ten, the range was approximately 68-73. My experience with 2n5551/2n5401 is that the range is much greater in a typical batch. Also the MPS's seem to be more consistent between batches. Nonetheless, I use a lot of 2n5551/2n5401 as well. |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
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value of input capacitor should be 470uF!
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#26 | |
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diyAudio Member
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
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When output level is about 17volt,input capacitor can make distortion
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Left Coast
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"value of input capacitor should be 470uF!"
470uF will either be an electolytic or a film cap as big as the rest of the PCB. So I assume it is an electro. Now, I was aware that electros don't have infinite bandwidth but I didn't realize how significant that might be until the other day I re-read (browsed) an old JL Hood book. In it he presented the series resistance of a 470uF electro as an example. The series resistance starts rising sharply around 10kHz - thus using a 470uF will not be a high-pass but a band-pass filter!! The highs dies! If you insist on such a value you really need to parallel it with a small value cap. Oddly enough I've noticed that the electro models in LTspice don't account for this -- another case where Spice can lead you astray. |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
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"value of input capacitor should be 470uF!"
Other reasons to go with a big value here (assuming that it is in parallel with other lower value of better capacitor types): 1- several pre-amps have capacitors (unknown value) at their output (in series with their amp output). This capacitors appears in series in some respect with the input cap of the power amp. Series means lower effective value at input power amp, thus higher low frequency cut-off. With a value like 100uf or more, the power amp becomes less dependent of the pre-amp it is connected to (if pre-amp has really an output cap). 2- Having a very low low frequency cut-off at input of power amp prevents high phase shift of the signal at 20 Hz. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Left Coast
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As I wrote in another thread I once discovered that a 70's (80's?) era reciever claimed an "intgrated rumble filter" (or maybe the adjective was "automatic") that was nothing but a 2uF cap on the input!!
Anyway one advantage of DIY is that you know and can choose what's in your equipment. I'm pretty suspicious about the practice of popping CD players or preamps open and willy-nilly swapping caps, but a bigger & better output cap is one thing that makes sense. The only thing is you need to locate it. |
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