Ha. It's the cap across the bias trannie.
The "erratic" component designators on the silk layer was one of the things I noticed when I got the real boards. I would have liked to have changed it, but then If I changed everything I wanted to on these boards you would still all be waiting for the first run.
The "erratic" component designators on the silk layer was one of the things I noticed when I got the real boards. I would have liked to have changed it, but then If I changed everything I wanted to on these boards you would still all be waiting for the first run.
C104 and 109 are spec'd to be the same size.
C104 is just to the right of the input so that shows the size, but Since I am triple checking EVERY component, I need to find/ try 109 too.
Also, how critical is the 100n? I have not found a part # for that value in hole through.. Only in surface mount.
C104 is just to the right of the input so that shows the size, but Since I am triple checking EVERY component, I need to find/ try 109 too.
Also, how critical is the 100n? I have not found a part # for that value in hole through.. Only in surface mount.
GeWa said:
That will work for Al's boards.. Thanks. Any suggestions for Jan's? His has a 7.5mm pitch and these leads are too short to cheat by bending in..
Mouser carrys the AVX brand spec'd by Jan, but I have not been successful in finding that value in hole through.
Edit: Srcatch that, the one directly above your highlighted line is 7.5 mm pitch...
Sorry for posting the same queston again but i'm sitting on a modem and it would that a REALLY long time to find the answer/tests....so sorry 
But 2x30V for a trannie was the latest recommendation, right? I found one at 1KVA and 2x30VAC but since i'm buying it for a friend and not for myself I would feel better If I was sure.
But 2x30V for a trannie was the latest recommendation, right? I found one at 1KVA and 2x30VAC but since i'm buying it for a friend and not for myself I would feel better If I was sure.
K-amps said:HAHA!
I got it!
Woohoo!
Thanks Al for nudging it
Well done K-Amps......Well done....
.... kind of cheating, putting up 4999 to set yourself up for the score, and not even posting on topic. Yet I can't be mad as I would have missed it anyway, that flurry of posts took place at a most inopportune moment.
We shall see if you have the legs to compete for 6000 cause I aint leaving anytime soon.
Hey, here is a question---
I'm using a 3-in-1 AC inlet/switch, you know the kind with the on/off switch built into the ac inlet so its all 1-piece. Now, sometimes when I turn the amp on, I hear a click come from the AC inlet and the power immediately turns off. This happens right away when you turn the amp on. My guess is that the AC cord is coming loose from the AC inlet, or the 3-in-1 is malfuntioning. I can't find anything wrong with the connections inside the amp. This all happens before the soft start has time to bypass the thermisters, it all happens immediately on flipping the on/off switch. Sometimes I get the same noise when I turn the amp off because my big thumb is blocked by the AC cord and its tough to make a decisive off-switch motion, so its off for a split second and then on again but no juice is coming into the amp.
I just turn it off adjust the power cord from the wall to inlet, and then turn it on again and it works, or if not, readjust and keep trying till it works. Weird. Anyone have this problem before or know what it is? Thinking a bridge could have been blown, I checked the DC rails with a scope, everything looks good and is at the proper voltage.
I have tried 2 power cords and it happens with both. A standard IEC cord, and a really massive PS Audio Lab cable that is so humungus that if you saw it you might suspect this type of problem.
Note- my soft start uses 3 ohm thermisters but shunts them using a 15A/220 V relay and 14 gauge wire 5 seconds after turn-on.
Hi Guys,
The last thing I need to do on the second KSA is get the pilot light to work. This switch has a 3V diode built in. What size resistor do I need to make it work? I can come off of the PSU which is putting out right at 40VDC, or the mains at 121VAC. Any place else you can suggest? How should I hook it up?
Thanks, Terry
The last thing I need to do on the second KSA is get the pilot light to work. This switch has a 3V diode built in. What size resistor do I need to make it work? I can come off of the PSU which is putting out right at 40VDC, or the mains at 121VAC. Any place else you can suggest? How should I hook it up?
Thanks, Terry
Terry, tell us the color!
See below. About .7 to .8 watts dissipated in the resistor.
Ive calculated this for 20mA in the LED, but they work fine with 10mA so anything from 2K-4K should be fine, 4K will be about 1/2 watt. Use a 1 or 3 watter if you have one.
________________Amber_____Blue
____________DATA SHEET___DATA SHEET
E (supply V)_______40.0_____40.0
Vf (volts)__________2.0______3.5
If (mA)___________20.0_____20.0
R (ohms)________ 1900_____1825
EDIT- I see you mentioned a 3V diode, that makes it 1.85K for 20mA, same advice, come off the V+ supply, LEDs don't like reverse voltages (from AC).
I had found an awesome link for LEDs, but lost it when my computer was stolen, here is a link that is almost as good: led link
See below. About .7 to .8 watts dissipated in the resistor.
Ive calculated this for 20mA in the LED, but they work fine with 10mA so anything from 2K-4K should be fine, 4K will be about 1/2 watt. Use a 1 or 3 watter if you have one.
________________Amber_____Blue
____________DATA SHEET___DATA SHEET
E (supply V)_______40.0_____40.0
Vf (volts)__________2.0______3.5
If (mA)___________20.0_____20.0
R (ohms)________ 1900_____1825
EDIT- I see you mentioned a 3V diode, that makes it 1.85K for 20mA, same advice, come off the V+ supply, LEDs don't like reverse voltages (from AC).
I had found an awesome link for LEDs, but lost it when my computer was stolen, here is a link that is almost as good: led link