I found an audio amplifier on amazon for 12$ rated 250W peak and 50W RMS per channel
my current stereo only does 40W at 8 ohms per channel. and struggles with 4ohms at anything louder than room listening volume. once the bass starts to play loud for a few moments it heats up rapidly and crackles slightly.
and the radio built in it manages to somehow still play in aux mode slightly at a whisper volume which is annoying.
so I wanted to get something dedicated to just audio to have no background noise and clear clean sound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG430H8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i'm getting on its way
from what it looks it's very customizable and would work perfectly with what ive got
I've got a 12v power supply 2 amps
or I can use my 5 amp hour SLA 12v which would be able to power it to full volume no problem for plenty of time (ive got a charger for it so its no problem)
I was thinking of soldering a small green LED and resistor onto the board in the middle or front of it so i can tell when its on.
i'm really shocked and surprised its only 12$ for 250W of power (even 50W is impressive for the price) thats why I got it.
would I have any problem with it? i hope not. I already have an aux cable to use with it. and its a decently good aux cable.
my speakers arent rated for 250W or even 50W but I want plenty overhead so i'm not underpowering my speakers or taxing the amp.
my current stereo only does 40W at 8 ohms per channel. and struggles with 4ohms at anything louder than room listening volume. once the bass starts to play loud for a few moments it heats up rapidly and crackles slightly.
and the radio built in it manages to somehow still play in aux mode slightly at a whisper volume which is annoying.
so I wanted to get something dedicated to just audio to have no background noise and clear clean sound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG430H8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i'm getting on its way
from what it looks it's very customizable and would work perfectly with what ive got
I've got a 12v power supply 2 amps
or I can use my 5 amp hour SLA 12v which would be able to power it to full volume no problem for plenty of time (ive got a charger for it so its no problem)
I was thinking of soldering a small green LED and resistor onto the board in the middle or front of it so i can tell when its on.
i'm really shocked and surprised its only 12$ for 250W of power (even 50W is impressive for the price) thats why I got it.
would I have any problem with it? i hope not. I already have an aux cable to use with it. and its a decently good aux cable.
my speakers arent rated for 250W or even 50W but I want plenty overhead so i'm not underpowering my speakers or taxing the amp.
Ignore the bs 250 watts claim it's ridiculous, the 50 watts is accurate ( with 24 v ) but rated at 10% thd and into 4 ohm , clean power @ 8 ohm around 20 watts ish with 24 v .
Hopefully it will arrive intact the Topping amp i received from that seller had been removed from it's box and protective foam packing and sealed in a thin unpadded plastic bag with zero protection and was badly damaged when it eventually arrived
Hopefully it will arrive intact the Topping amp i received from that seller had been removed from it's box and protective foam packing and sealed in a thin unpadded plastic bag with zero protection and was badly damaged when it eventually arrived
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> 12$ rated 250W
The "250" number is 100% clipping at maximum supply voltage.
> shocked and surprised its only 12$ for 250W
Well spotted. The Law of Power (Power aint cheap) can be bent, but not violated.
In hi-fi terms it is maybe 16WPC 4r at 12V, ~~50WPC 4r at 24V.
You get that much because it omits Power Supply (a hard cost), also case and connectors (which have not got as cheap as fast as ICs have). You do get a knob...
> got a 12v power supply 2 amps
That's 24 Watts. It won't even power the 2x16W case well.
> 5 amp hour SLA 12v
At steady 2x16W this is at-best 2 hours to dead-flat (which is bad for SLA). Hi-fi runs well below full power on average, but you say you are over-heating your present amp, so I dunno. A few hours. Not all-day. And 16WPC is less than your current amp seems to be.
If you seriously want to upgrade, sniff around in the local musician's used gear shop. 2X200W amps sell for a few hundred bucks, and WILL meet specs all night long. These days new-amp prices compete with good-used 30-day trade-back amps.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU1000-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B00LGNFALY
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLI800-Two-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00AR0A3V4
The "250" number is 100% clipping at maximum supply voltage.
> shocked and surprised its only 12$ for 250W
Well spotted. The Law of Power (Power aint cheap) can be bent, but not violated.
In hi-fi terms it is maybe 16WPC 4r at 12V, ~~50WPC 4r at 24V.
You get that much because it omits Power Supply (a hard cost), also case and connectors (which have not got as cheap as fast as ICs have). You do get a knob...
> got a 12v power supply 2 amps
That's 24 Watts. It won't even power the 2x16W case well.
> 5 amp hour SLA 12v
At steady 2x16W this is at-best 2 hours to dead-flat (which is bad for SLA). Hi-fi runs well below full power on average, but you say you are over-heating your present amp, so I dunno. A few hours. Not all-day. And 16WPC is less than your current amp seems to be.
If you seriously want to upgrade, sniff around in the local musician's used gear shop. 2X200W amps sell for a few hundred bucks, and WILL meet specs all night long. These days new-amp prices compete with good-used 30-day trade-back amps.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU1000-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B00LGNFALY
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLI800-Two-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00AR0A3V4
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I dont have 100-250$ to spend on an amplifier. so I'm just getting the cheapest but best closest thing i can find to what i need.
I'm only running two cheap 3W 4ohm speakers and my 40-watt stereo still can't handle them running too loud for too long before the amp starts hiccupping.
so I just wanted something that would run them strongly at full power with no hiccupping and CLEAN power.
24W is plenty. and it actually CAN handle 4 ohm speakers natively should be great.
They say 3W max but they Definitely absolutely can handle much more than 3 watts.
They actually are 3" speakers but they produce plenty of actual bass and they move a decent amount of air too for their size. even though they were out of a 10$ bluetooth speaker set from the dollar store.
They sound just fine too.
I wont be powering them close to 50W I just want the overhead power so they have clean power with no overheating of amp or taxing any components.
they will maybe get 10 watts maybe 12 watts in total. they can be driven with more than 3 watts no problem they have plenty of ventilation (even have a hole in the bottom center of the magnet which surprises me for how cheap they are)
The speakers im using at 4 ohm.
but the stereo i have is only rated for 8 ohms minimum so even at medium-ish volume where the 3 watt speakers are going full bass it still overheats and starts clipping.
the speakers dont overheat or bottom out. just the stereo.
the speakers would have to be powered ridiculously hard to bottom them out (and in short bursts to not overheat them) they dont have much cone distortion or wobble when moving so they work reasonable for me.
I hope the one I recieve works out!
so i'm also getting this upgraded more powerful amp in case i need to upgrade my speakers in the future when we get some spare money the next time
I'm only running two cheap 3W 4ohm speakers and my 40-watt stereo still can't handle them running too loud for too long before the amp starts hiccupping.
so I just wanted something that would run them strongly at full power with no hiccupping and CLEAN power.
24W is plenty. and it actually CAN handle 4 ohm speakers natively should be great.
They say 3W max but they Definitely absolutely can handle much more than 3 watts.
They actually are 3" speakers but they produce plenty of actual bass and they move a decent amount of air too for their size. even though they were out of a 10$ bluetooth speaker set from the dollar store.
They sound just fine too.
I wont be powering them close to 50W I just want the overhead power so they have clean power with no overheating of amp or taxing any components.
they will maybe get 10 watts maybe 12 watts in total. they can be driven with more than 3 watts no problem they have plenty of ventilation (even have a hole in the bottom center of the magnet which surprises me for how cheap they are)
The speakers im using at 4 ohm.
but the stereo i have is only rated for 8 ohms minimum so even at medium-ish volume where the 3 watt speakers are going full bass it still overheats and starts clipping.
the speakers dont overheat or bottom out. just the stereo.
the speakers would have to be powered ridiculously hard to bottom them out (and in short bursts to not overheat them) they dont have much cone distortion or wobble when moving so they work reasonable for me.
I hope the one I recieve works out!
so i'm also getting this upgraded more powerful amp in case i need to upgrade my speakers in the future when we get some spare money the next time
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You might be happier with one of these: Pyle Two Channel Compact Stereo Amplifier - 120W x 2 | PCA4 | Pyle
Which has internal power supply, controls, enclosure, and uses 120 vac or 220 vac power. Has the speaker wire push in jacks.
About $77 plus freight FOB OH.
You didn't mention your inputs, but this takes two RCA plugs or one 3.5 mm stereo plug, at probably 1.5 to 2 v sensitivity.
If you want to switch between 2 inputs without changing cables, they sell mixer/amps too. For $96 you can get one with input jacks or internal FM radio, also receives bluetooth. 50-9885
I haven't bought this particular product, but I do buy TV roof antennas , HDTV tuner/converters, test equipment, soldering irons, headphones, cables from them. They are about 2 grades of initial quality above old time Radio Shack, IMHO. I hated the stuff I got from RS, started buying at the TV repair supply in 1972.
Or for the diy experience, buy a chip amp kit from atikita, chipamps or somebody in the vendor forums below on the main forum page. Buying all the parts individually as you discover you need them costs about $10-12 a box for each shipment. Unless you live in a big city hear a Fry's. I don't.
Which has internal power supply, controls, enclosure, and uses 120 vac or 220 vac power. Has the speaker wire push in jacks.
About $77 plus freight FOB OH.
You didn't mention your inputs, but this takes two RCA plugs or one 3.5 mm stereo plug, at probably 1.5 to 2 v sensitivity.
If you want to switch between 2 inputs without changing cables, they sell mixer/amps too. For $96 you can get one with input jacks or internal FM radio, also receives bluetooth. 50-9885
I haven't bought this particular product, but I do buy TV roof antennas , HDTV tuner/converters, test equipment, soldering irons, headphones, cables from them. They are about 2 grades of initial quality above old time Radio Shack, IMHO. I hated the stuff I got from RS, started buying at the TV repair supply in 1972.
Or for the diy experience, buy a chip amp kit from atikita, chipamps or somebody in the vendor forums below on the main forum page. Buying all the parts individually as you discover you need them costs about $10-12 a box for each shipment. Unless you live in a big city hear a Fry's. I don't.
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I already ordered it from amazon though.
and ive already got a 3.5mm aux cable.
so i'll have to try it and see when i get it how it turns out to be.
I cant spend more than about 20$ on anything i order even with lots of spare money because it always ends up going to bills, bills, and more bills. and groceries.
and nope there aint a frys near here. at least not in south carolina orangeburg because i havent seen one ever since ive been alive. only heard about it.
and ive already got a 3.5mm aux cable.
so i'll have to try it and see when i get it how it turns out to be.
I cant spend more than about 20$ on anything i order even with lots of spare money because it always ends up going to bills, bills, and more bills. and groceries.
and nope there aint a frys near here. at least not in south carolina orangeburg because i havent seen one ever since ive been alive. only heard about it.
Oh, wow, you are 1 day delivery distance from Newark in Gafney, SC.
If you need something electronic pro grade, they have it. They don't sell amplifiers, or consumer audio, but they do sell evaluation boards. MCM is their consumer division in OH.
I get sometimes 29 hour UPS surface service here in Kentukiana, if I get the order in to Newark by 10 AM.
USPS priority is cheaper to houses, about $6-9 a box, but they take 3 to 5 days to get here. Might get to you in two.
If you need something electronic pro grade, they have it. They don't sell amplifiers, or consumer audio, but they do sell evaluation boards. MCM is their consumer division in OH.
I get sometimes 29 hour UPS surface service here in Kentukiana, if I get the order in to Newark by 10 AM.
USPS priority is cheaper to houses, about $6-9 a box, but they take 3 to 5 days to get here. Might get to you in two.
I'm amazed you haven't fried those speakers, my advice is to return the amp unopened/unused which you are allowed to do with Amazon and order a Lapai 2020 amp ( sometimes branded Lepy but the same company ) ,Amazon sell them or Parts Express for around $20 .
Ready made , springclip speaker terminals , tone controls , one set of rca in and one 3.5 mm input at the rear ,
More than enough power for your speakers and 12 v , if you search Lapai Amplifier on You Tube theres loads of videos showing their capabilities.
The original model has recently been replaced and uses a 3118 chip model 2020TI but a bit more expensive ,theres still plenty of original ones available though .
Ready made , springclip speaker terminals , tone controls , one set of rca in and one 3.5 mm input at the rear ,
More than enough power for your speakers and 12 v , if you search Lapai Amplifier on You Tube theres loads of videos showing their capabilities.
The original model has recently been replaced and uses a 3118 chip model 2020TI but a bit more expensive ,theres still plenty of original ones available though .
I got it for free shipping and no tax and its only 12$ so it should be plenty more than enough for me. I dont think it would be worth it to send it back at this point. i could use it in the future for something if i dont use it now.
I'm planning on hooking it up and setting it up to play audio from my computer like music and games and whatnot.
I also might make passive bass boost circuit on the input if I need to increase the bass for any reason (in case the output is not completely flat in volume compared to frequency. although it should be flat)
I also got one of these to use with with my 12v SLA to run my 12v AA/AAA battery charger with my solar panel setup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWCC6S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SLA hooked directly to battery charger with a 1A fuse (battery charger only uses at most 0.42A - 0.5A at 12v input with all 8 slots filled with dead AA's)
And this regulator set to 13.7v hooked to a 20W solar panel to keep the battery topped up during the day and useable to charge things during the day or night.
ive already checked all the connections and best place for the solar panel. it will be facing the sun mostly all day on the roof in a good position. with no shade covering it.
I think its a great experiment to try out.
Could even hook up my audio amplifier to it as well. since the battery voltage is compatible with both the amplifier and the battery charger
because I sure wont be powering it with 20W of power continuously all day and night to drain the battery.
the battery charger can handle from about 7-8v to 24v and the amplifier from 5v to 24v with some wiggle room too.
and with 12v it should be just fine. I wouldn't be driving the speakers too hard or charging batteries continuously all day and night. but only periodically. and usually i have no sound playing so the amp won't be drawing much at all.
I was thinking of hooking the solar panel up directly because its voltage is compatible BUT the problem of the voltage swinging up and down as well as the current being limited to 1A regardless of how heavy of a load is on the solar panel (most solar panels are like that) would prevent that. and with a voltage buck converter i'd get a lot more power out of it. and more efficiency. since it can increase the current to about 2A at 12v-13.8v
I'm planning on hooking it up and setting it up to play audio from my computer like music and games and whatnot.
I also might make passive bass boost circuit on the input if I need to increase the bass for any reason (in case the output is not completely flat in volume compared to frequency. although it should be flat)
I also got one of these to use with with my 12v SLA to run my 12v AA/AAA battery charger with my solar panel setup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWCC6S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SLA hooked directly to battery charger with a 1A fuse (battery charger only uses at most 0.42A - 0.5A at 12v input with all 8 slots filled with dead AA's)
And this regulator set to 13.7v hooked to a 20W solar panel to keep the battery topped up during the day and useable to charge things during the day or night.
ive already checked all the connections and best place for the solar panel. it will be facing the sun mostly all day on the roof in a good position. with no shade covering it.
I think its a great experiment to try out.
Could even hook up my audio amplifier to it as well. since the battery voltage is compatible with both the amplifier and the battery charger
because I sure wont be powering it with 20W of power continuously all day and night to drain the battery.
the battery charger can handle from about 7-8v to 24v and the amplifier from 5v to 24v with some wiggle room too.
and with 12v it should be just fine. I wouldn't be driving the speakers too hard or charging batteries continuously all day and night. but only periodically. and usually i have no sound playing so the amp won't be drawing much at all.
I was thinking of hooking the solar panel up directly because its voltage is compatible BUT the problem of the voltage swinging up and down as well as the current being limited to 1A regardless of how heavy of a load is on the solar panel (most solar panels are like that) would prevent that. and with a voltage buck converter i'd get a lot more power out of it. and more efficiency. since it can increase the current to about 2A at 12v-13.8v
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Well heres an update
the tracking status says
"Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier,
Columbia, SC, US"
but i'm in orangeburg only a town away. What could be taking several days if it left from only a town away? orangeburg is only one town away. shouldn't it already be in the carrier if its in the same state? it'd be faster riding my bike there and then back than waiting for them to do whatever it is they are doing.
the tracking status says
"Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier,
Columbia, SC, US"
but i'm in orangeburg only a town away. What could be taking several days if it left from only a town away? orangeburg is only one town away. shouldn't it already be in the carrier if its in the same state? it'd be faster riding my bike there and then back than waiting for them to do whatever it is they are doing.
They don't run one little truck to your town. They run a 54' trailer from the warehouse 3 miles from your house (amazon w/h is 3 miles down the road from me) to the sorting facility, which sorts the package without human intervention. Then another 20' trailer to the economic hub for your area, then into a delivery van. People go to college to design these systems for low cost, it is called "logistics".
You're going to need rail caps, rail ceramic caps, terminal board, hookup wire, solder, an iron, and unless you live in a field 1500 feet from the nearest neighbor, you need an enclosure to keep the class D **** from howling into every tv & radio and phone. Plus toroids or anti-RF beads to keep RF from going out the wires & using them as antennas. That is if you use only the solar cell for power. If you use 120 VAC you also need transformer, rectifiers, hash snubbers, a AC entrance device, fuse, switch, safety ground star washer & screw, a power cord.
Which is why the packaged amp cost more than $12.
Have fun with your bargain.
You're going to need rail caps, rail ceramic caps, terminal board, hookup wire, solder, an iron, and unless you live in a field 1500 feet from the nearest neighbor, you need an enclosure to keep the class D **** from howling into every tv & radio and phone. Plus toroids or anti-RF beads to keep RF from going out the wires & using them as antennas. That is if you use only the solar cell for power. If you use 120 VAC you also need transformer, rectifiers, hash snubbers, a AC entrance device, fuse, switch, safety ground star washer & screw, a power cord.
Which is why the packaged amp cost more than $12.
Have fun with your bargain.
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all of those things are overkill for an average joe looking to play music from his laptop phone computer or whatever.
ive already got several power supplys to choose from. 12v battery. 5v and 12v filtered DC wall wart 2.1A power supply.
ive ran plenty of PWM and buck circuits before and never had any noise problems from them.
turning on a hair clippers creates more of a voltage spike than a class D audio amp would ever make.
if i really need to i can just stick it in a cardboard box covered in layers of aluminum/tin foil with just the wires going in and out and the volume knob sticking out.
we dont have very strict of noise and radio static or interference where i live. infact theres a tower right near us that sometimes overloads my stereo and makes my stereo output radio music even when its in aux-in mode.
i have to wrap the aux in cord in a weird vertical loop to get rid of the noise from that!
and if I really need a heavy duty noise filter for my DC power supply i have a 9,600uF capacitor bank rated 25v which is enormously more than adequate for smoothing the input to the amp.
ive already got several power supplys to choose from. 12v battery. 5v and 12v filtered DC wall wart 2.1A power supply.
ive ran plenty of PWM and buck circuits before and never had any noise problems from them.
turning on a hair clippers creates more of a voltage spike than a class D audio amp would ever make.
if i really need to i can just stick it in a cardboard box covered in layers of aluminum/tin foil with just the wires going in and out and the volume knob sticking out.
we dont have very strict of noise and radio static or interference where i live. infact theres a tower right near us that sometimes overloads my stereo and makes my stereo output radio music even when its in aux-in mode.
i have to wrap the aux in cord in a weird vertical loop to get rid of the noise from that!
and if I really need a heavy duty noise filter for my DC power supply i have a 9,600uF capacitor bank rated 25v which is enormously more than adequate for smoothing the input to the amp.
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IT ARRIVED!
Very excited
Excellent sound quality! Neutral and doesn't sound tampered with. exactly what I was hoping for.
I'm also very happy there is no subsonic filter below 20hz so I get full range of audio from 1hz/whatever to 20hz and to 20khz.
Some songs have those frequencies in them for effect and its fun to watch the speakers move at 3hz 10hz and 16hz and whatnot.
As long as your not blasting them with those frequencies you wont burn up anything. from what I learned i'm exceedingly careful with my volume and know my speakers limits.
Even comes with some little legs/pegs to use as a stand or for installing a case.
I used them as little feet for now and it works great and looks nice sitting on my desk next to my computer.
Very excited
Excellent sound quality! Neutral and doesn't sound tampered with. exactly what I was hoping for.
I'm also very happy there is no subsonic filter below 20hz so I get full range of audio from 1hz/whatever to 20hz and to 20khz.
Some songs have those frequencies in them for effect and its fun to watch the speakers move at 3hz 10hz and 16hz and whatnot.
As long as your not blasting them with those frequencies you wont burn up anything. from what I learned i'm exceedingly careful with my volume and know my speakers limits.
Even comes with some little legs/pegs to use as a stand or for installing a case.
I used them as little feet for now and it works great and looks nice sitting on my desk next to my computer.
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