The fundamentals of the psu design will be similar but the voltages will be different. So no, the power supply will not be universal. The pass amps use the same voltage rails across 5 or so different amps (24v rails). The class ab stuff usually uses higher rails (40-80v). There may be designs where the psu can overlap but in general the psu is not universal.
edit- didn't see newest post
Please forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by protection systems? would that be something like this? http://diyaudiostore.com/collection...speaker-turn-on-delay-and-dc-protector-boards
Please forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by protection systems? would that be something like this? http://diyaudiostore.com/collection...speaker-turn-on-delay-and-dc-protector-boards
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A supply like the one from the DIYAudio store would work fine for most amplifiers. Just select capacitors that are rated for higher voltage than you will ever see yourself using. Different voltages can be selected by changing the main transformer. Unfortunately the main transformer is usually about half the cost of the complete supply.
That protection/softstart combination would keep your speakers safe. We've gone a lot more advanced with protection, but it's not absolutely necessary. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/264313-how-build-21-st-century-protection-board.html
That protection/softstart combination would keep your speakers safe. We've gone a lot more advanced with protection, but it's not absolutely necessary. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/264313-how-build-21-st-century-protection-board.html
I think one thing to consider is how much support or community is available to help you with your build. At this point, it's probably more important than sound quality. Choose an amp that has experienced people willing to help and you will be successful. Choose an amp that doesn't and it may be more difficult and frustrating.
This is a great site. Make sure you choose an amp that has good support here. There are many.
This is a great site. Make sure you choose an amp that has good support here. There are many.
Thanks for all the info, with that in mind I think I'll probably go with something from diyaudiostore.
There are amps here that have a lot of support and don't have pcb's sold on this site. You just need to explore some threads. In general, the pass stuff has a lot of support from here. It doesn't mean it sounds better (although I think it does) but rather there are a lot of people willing to help.
The gainclone amps have a lot of support too.
I have heard of the vhex amp, although I don't know much about it. It might have a large community here too.
I don't do tubes so Iam not sure what amps are popular here.
The gainclone amps have a lot of support too.
I have heard of the vhex amp, although I don't know much about it. It might have a large community here too.
I don't do tubes so Iam not sure what amps are popular here.
I'm waiting on adventuring into tubes myself. I jumped to the Pass stuff because it seems really up to date and has a big following on here. I'm positive this won't be my last amp I do, I just really want the learning experience. Honey Badger in specific I like because it's a good amount of power, I could use it for all kinds of stuff.
If I do go HB, could I just use the Universal PSU for that? Then, are those additional boards (soft start/DC protector and Super Regulator) boards that you'd combine with the Univeral board? Sorry I'm asking a lot of questions, I just want to hammer out my gameplan.
If I do go HB, could I just use the Universal PSU for that? Then, are those additional boards (soft start/DC protector and Super Regulator) boards that you'd combine with the Univeral board? Sorry I'm asking a lot of questions, I just want to hammer out my gameplan.
I do like the VHex, and you saying they're a nice match with the Chorus does get me thinking. I guess I just get a little intimidated when it comes to finding power supplies.
You wouldn't need the super regulator board. The supply and protection would work. If you like the look of the Badger, take a look at Ostripper's Slewmaster series. The Honeybadger was his earlier design. The Slewmasters his latest designs. The Wolverine was a high performance version of the HoneyBadger, but he came out with many more and better input designs to go with it.
That's why I mentioned my kit. It's all included.
Supplies are easy, but they are a very important part of the amplifier. You really don't even need a board for them. You can just use a bridge rectifier and some chassis mount caps. The supply board just makes it a little neater. Once you get into a "big" amplifier, you will want two separate supplies. The stereo separation is vastly improved.
Ostripper's Spooky(VFA) input board is the bass king of the series. His Kypton-ND(CFA) is the high frequency detail winner. All of them sound very close and all are excellent operating designs. The design of the amplifier allows you so swap out different input boards easily so you can convert it to a whole different amplifier design/personality in minutes.
The idea of the series was to solve the argument which amplifier design was better, CFA (current feedback) or VFA (Voltage feedback). In the end we learned CFAs are faster and better at detail and VFAs are better at producing bass. The argument wasn't really solved, we just figured out what designs would excel with some speakers. Klipsch have never needed any help producing bass, so a CFA design is a better choice for them in my opinion.
VZaichenko came up with a totally different design with his Ampliwire input, which turned into the VHex. The VAS section is current drive instead of voltage drive. There's a lot more power flowing through the input section of the amp, which makes it less sensitive to outside interference. It's much easier to assemble this type of amplifier without getting buzz or hiss, which is a problem with high efficiency (Klipsch) speakers. The Slewmaster, or the HoneyBadger can be made as quiet, but you need to be more careful with chassis layout.
All of these amps have excellent PSSR, so you don't need to worry about CRC or cap multiplier supplies. There are lots of simpler designs of amplifiers, but the trade off is they are more picky about supply noise and are usually 1 decimal place higher in the distortion levels. I can't comment on class A designs because I've never built one, and likely never will. With the price of electricity here in Ontario, they're too expensive to run!
The idea of the series was to solve the argument which amplifier design was better, CFA (current feedback) or VFA (Voltage feedback). In the end we learned CFAs are faster and better at detail and VFAs are better at producing bass. The argument wasn't really solved, we just figured out what designs would excel with some speakers. Klipsch have never needed any help producing bass, so a CFA design is a better choice for them in my opinion.
VZaichenko came up with a totally different design with his Ampliwire input, which turned into the VHex. The VAS section is current drive instead of voltage drive. There's a lot more power flowing through the input section of the amp, which makes it less sensitive to outside interference. It's much easier to assemble this type of amplifier without getting buzz or hiss, which is a problem with high efficiency (Klipsch) speakers. The Slewmaster, or the HoneyBadger can be made as quiet, but you need to be more careful with chassis layout.
All of these amps have excellent PSSR, so you don't need to worry about CRC or cap multiplier supplies. There are lots of simpler designs of amplifiers, but the trade off is they are more picky about supply noise and are usually 1 decimal place higher in the distortion levels. I can't comment on class A designs because I've never built one, and likely never will. With the price of electricity here in Ontario, they're too expensive to run!
Thanks for all the input! I would argue that if Klipsch don't need a boost in the bass department the exception to that rule might be the Heresy.
I like the idea behind the Spooky vs Krypton, and I'd probably want to build both haha. Part of me getting into this hobby is seeing how different things work and then listening to my music and seeing what the difference is.
I'd also say that I appreciate your ideas behind running class A... When I found out what it actually meant I feel like technology has to have gotten to a place where that kind of operation isn't necessary anymore..
I like the idea behind the Spooky vs Krypton, and I'd probably want to build both haha. Part of me getting into this hobby is seeing how different things work and then listening to my music and seeing what the difference is.
I'd also say that I appreciate your ideas behind running class A... When I found out what it actually meant I feel like technology has to have gotten to a place where that kind of operation isn't necessary anymore..
I haven't listened to the Heresy a lot. It's the only one in their Heritage line that doesn't have a 15" woofer. I have a pair for the rear channels in my theater, but haven't installed them yet.
I would recommend building a bunch of the Slewmaster boards. They all work great. Thimios is messing around with distortion measurements with some alterations to the servo circuit and coming up with some impressive results. We may be running new boards for the whole series soon.
Class A designs are antiquated now, but some still swear by them. The same can be said for tubes.
I would recommend building a bunch of the Slewmaster boards. They all work great. Thimios is messing around with distortion measurements with some alterations to the servo circuit and coming up with some impressive results. We may be running new boards for the whole series soon.
Class A designs are antiquated now, but some still swear by them. The same can be said for tubes.
The reason why everything is not class a is wattage, size, cost and power consumption. Not sound quality. Heresys are a speaker that don't need the wattage of a class ab design so why not go class a? Unless you are opposed to the heat or 300-ish watt power consumption (which is about the same as a single old school light bulb).
That would be my argument.
That would be my argument.
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