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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: United Kingdom
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Hi there,
What was just an irritating problem with my delta 290 integrated has now become serious. The input select dial produces a real hum. Switching back and forth used to sort it out, but now it does it all the time. Ive read others who've had problems with this pot, and soved them, apparently by cleaning it. Its a motorised selector, enclosed in a housing, which is itself soldered to the pcb... Any further info would be appreciated. Thankyou, Julian |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: blah
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I'm having the same problem! SOMEBODY PLEASE REPLY!
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: northern israel
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Their tech support is very good, or so I heard.
Please report back! My in-laws have the Delta, it's still OK but just in case it starts misbehaving I'd like to know what to do... |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi!
I bought an Arcam Delta 290 amp. some days ago with bad output stage. Could anybody help me about the output transistors' type or about the schematics? Please reply! Thanks, Gyula |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: United Kingdom
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Please keep on the topic of the thread.
In a follow up on the origional topic: The switch has plates, or wafers inside it. The contacts on these plates have become worn, to the extent that there is a groove running through both the metal and the plastic that they are embedded in. (you wouldnt see this untill youd completely unsoldered and taken apart the switch unit) Arcam will sell a whole new switch unit, but at something like £50, which is more than i want to spend. Alps, the origional maker of the switch has since discontinued it, possibly because of its design flaw. The arcam replacements are made for them specificaly by another company. So far as i see it, i have a few options: To hard wire the amp to a single line input, and keep the voulme controll, etc. To spend 50 odd quid on a new switch To use the amp in 'power amp' mode with a seperate pre. Or, the most desirable option: If the plates in the switch are / were used in any other switch (they look like a standard part) then maybee it would be possible to aqquire these plates from elsewhere. As of yet, i havent been able to determin this though. Will give it another look soon. Julian |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: UK
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Hi,
I just saw this thread. The way I deal with this problen on my 290 is to lift the back plate of the switch housing and spray liberally with contact cleaner (solvent available from Maplins etc). Your mechanical damage may be one step too far, but others with the problem might find this info useful. Cheers Jon |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Julian,
Once the plating has worn through to the base metal you must replace the contacts. Cleaning will be temporary at best. You are probably further ahead to spend 50 quid and get the part that fits. Clean it before you install it. At least the part is available, so no tears mate. -Chris |
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| Matt.B.H. |
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