Hello
I have a nad C326bee that I was given, no information about it at all. It works perfectly in all functions. I have just bought a remote control for it, an sr-8 that unfortunately does not do any functions at all. I have also tried a remote for a C325bee which also does nothing but its a different remote with fewer functions.
Whats the likelyhood that its the amp circuit its self and what usualy goes wrong and does anyone have any suggestions.
A schematic for the nad C326bee would be most usefull.
Thanks
thyristor44
I have a nad C326bee that I was given, no information about it at all. It works perfectly in all functions. I have just bought a remote control for it, an sr-8 that unfortunately does not do any functions at all. I have also tried a remote for a C325bee which also does nothing but its a different remote with fewer functions.
Whats the likelyhood that its the amp circuit its self and what usualy goes wrong and does anyone have any suggestions.
A schematic for the nad C326bee would be most usefull.
Thanks
thyristor44
NAD C326BEE Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
Have you got the correct remote controller? If you have, is there signal leaving pin 1 of the IR receiver? If the buttons work on the machine, it is unlikely the decoder is at fault. Using a mobile phone camera, look at the output led on the remote controller, it is transmitting?
Have you got the correct remote controller? If you have, is there signal leaving pin 1 of the IR receiver? If the buttons work on the machine, it is unlikely the decoder is at fault. Using a mobile phone camera, look at the output led on the remote controller, it is transmitting?
The remote controller is working, one flash every one sec, and is a nad sr-8, the correct one.
I will look at pin 1 from the receiver with the scope in the morning, its too late tonight. What should I be looking for and do the ir receivers often fail.
Thanks
Remote faults (at the receiving end) are rare. You should see a 5 volt 'data' type of signal a bit like this. You need a good scope to be able to clearly show the data but as long as the signal is present and at 5v or so pk/pk then its going to be fine.
Most problems like this are down to having an incorrect remote.
Most problems like this are down to having an incorrect remote.
The scope is 60mhz tektronix 2213 so should do.
I am tempted to try now but will wait as unless I am fresh I always knack something.
I cant see any pulses at all on pin 1. Its pulled up to 5v rain by a 10k resistor.
What sort of frequency would the pulses be and should all remote controls give an output, not to control the amp but just give a pulse.
Frequency doesn't matter, there should be data when you press the remote controller.
If you can see the IR led flashing on the controller, with your camera when you press a button on the remote controller, the detector is probably faulty. Try a TV remote just to make sure. There should be data from pin 1 of the receiver regardless of remote controller type.
If you can see the IR led flashing on the controller, with your camera when you press a button on the remote controller, the detector is probably faulty. Try a TV remote just to make sure. There should be data from pin 1 of the receiver regardless of remote controller type.
Could you cancel what I have just said please.
There is data coming from the sensor with my sat receiver controller so the sensor does work. The new c326bee controller seems to give no data just a 5ms pulse. I cant see any data on it at all. It does flash in the camera but only every one sec, the sat controller gives almost continuous pulses.
Sorry for the confusion.
Pretty much all remotes should give an output from the receiver. The data pulses generated by the remote are superimposed onto a carrier, typically 36 or 38kHz. Ideally the remote receiver should of a matching frequency but generally they all work. There are the exceptions that use something totally different.
If you can't see any output (and it should be clear and obvious) then you need to dangle a new receiver onto the board and see if that fixes things.
Does this work,
Infrared | CPC UK
If you can't see any output (and it should be clear and obvious) then you need to dangle a new receiver onto the board and see if that fixes things.
Does this work,
Infrared | CPC UK
No problem
It does sound like a remote problem. There has to be more than a single pulse... there should be something like the 12 bit code I posted yesterday. Usually that code repeats over and over as long as a button is pressed.
Even if the remote were an odd ball type that transmitted just a single packet of data, you should still see more than a single 'empty' pulse.
Has the remote always had batteries fitted i.e. 24/7
If so, take them out and put the remote on a warm/hot radiator for a few hours and then retest (I know
) but it happens. A particular Sony VCR remote used to lockup. If you just removed the batteries it could take a week for the device to loose all residual charge internal in the chip and for it to reset and work correctly. Heat speeded that up many times.I have just bought the remote and it came minus batteries.No problem
It does sound like a remote problem. There has to be more than a single pulse... there should be something like the 12 bit code I posted yesterday. Usually that code repeats over and over as long as a button is pressed.
Even if the remote were an odd ball type that transmitted just a single packet of data, you should still see more than a single 'empty' pulse.
Has the remote always had batteries fitted i.e. 24/7
If so, take them out and put the remote on a warm/hot radiator for a few hours and then retest (I know
There is no data on the 5ms pulse but is with all other remotes in the house.
Was it new or S/H with an unknown history ?
The remote has to be the problem, the question is whether its fixable or not. Have you opened it up. The only 'common' physical problems with remotes are spillage, faulty IR diodes and the ceramic resonator snapping one of its legs due to mechanical fatigue... if its that type. That was a really common issue years ago across countless makes and models.
The remote has to be the problem, the question is whether its fixable or not. Have you opened it up. The only 'common' physical problems with remotes are spillage, faulty IR diodes and the ceramic resonator snapping one of its legs due to mechanical fatigue... if its that type. That was a really common issue years ago across countless makes and models.
The SR-8 NAD remote control may require configuring to set its library code as it is a universal controller for many different NAD products. Have you done this?
Refer to http://www.dynavox.ch/dl/nad_sr8_datasheet.pdf which states:
The SR 8 can store a different library of default NAD codes for each of its DEVICE SELECTOR “pages.”
Refer to http://www.dynavox.ch/dl/nad_sr8_datasheet.pdf which states:
The SR 8 can store a different library of default NAD codes for each of its DEVICE SELECTOR “pages.”
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Its new, and I did as you said and removed the batteries for a bit and it is now giving data pulses and more important is working the amp so thanks for that alot.
Thanks currentflow but it is a bootleg remote so is preprogrammed. Its working now.
that's great.
I have a NAD 326BEEwith the according factory remote (SR8 IR) that once worked well for a short time. I am not sure if I botched the setup or it is the one at fault. It is a multi function remote with a feeling of beefiness and comfort, easy to hold and reach everything with your thumb.
As I was saying. All buttons lite the LED indicator that suggest its working, but only ON/Standby and gain volume up/down works. It would be useful if I decide to use the amp with the late night bedroom tv.
As I was saying. All buttons lite the LED indicator that suggest its working, but only ON/Standby and gain volume up/down works. It would be useful if I decide to use the amp with the late night bedroom tv.
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Thank you! THIS is the correct answer. It took me about ten seconds to revive my remote control by pressing the standby button on the amp and the "MP" button on the remote control. It is even working better than before (at least it feels like it
. Oh, by the way, my amp is a NAD C-316BEE V2.I just made an account for this forum just to say thank you, jwilsonny! I hope you see this one day.