Thanks all for the help, I really appreciate it - when I get the voltmeter i'll get back to you all with the findings...
With regards the swedish amp - the pic can be found here: http://www.referenceaudio.se/ImageUpload/Krell/KRell300ILINN.jpg You can see that the switches are set as SW1=2, SW2=1, SW3=1.
I thought when I first saw this pic I had found the solution but then I stumbled across this link: http://www.escapeartist.com/cgi-bin/travel_engines/voltage_search.cgi?country=Sweden
With regards the swedish amp - the pic can be found here: http://www.referenceaudio.se/ImageUpload/Krell/KRell300ILINN.jpg You can see that the switches are set as SW1=2, SW2=1, SW3=1.
I thought when I first saw this pic I had found the solution but then I stumbled across this link: http://www.escapeartist.com/cgi-bin/travel_engines/voltage_search.cgi?country=Sweden
K-amps said:
It seems that the toroid has dual primaries. These are the blue-grey-purple and red-black-brown wires. The secondaries seem to be the 2 yellow and two orange wires going to the main PCB. The voltages of the yellow/orange wires should be the same before and after the switch (not half and not double).
The extreme yellow and orange coulde be the main Taps and the inner two could form the gnd or center tap.
If there are no other transformers (like the standby power types) all you'd need to do is to remove the 2 yellow and 2 orange wires (This isolates the amplifier from high voltages that may happen during your experimentation) and then try and play with the switches and measure voltages on the yellow / orange combo.
Basically for each yellow/orange combinition, you should have about 50 to 60 volts AC across them . The two combos should be identical in voltage. i.e. yellow to orange would be 50-60vac for both pairs. By the same token, each yellow (or orange) to GND/Earth should be 50 to 60 vac in case of the outer two cables.
If you were to label the cables (orange/yellow) as Y1 Y2 O1 O2 (left to right based on your picture) then you'd get 50-60 vac across Y1 and O1. Ans the same 50 to 60 vac across Y2 and O2. Zero volts across Y1 and Y2 and Zero across O1 and O2. You'd also get 100-120 vac across Y1 and O2.
Not sure if this helps...
Do not do this under any circumstances.
Use the primary resistance measuring technique.
The main feeds are the white and blue pairs under the top board,
and there is a feed to a regulator I presume on the bottom right.
sreten.
http://www.escapeartist.com/cgi-bin/travel_engines/voltage_search.cgi?country=Sweden
Well they must be wrong..I have never heard of any region of sweden ever using 110V
The only thing I can think of is that several years ago there used to be 110V outlets in bathroms for shaving gear...but thats not customary anymore.
The picture however could have been supplied by Krell themself and or borrowed from somewhere.
/ Micke
Well they must be wrong..I have never heard of any region of sweden ever using 110V
The only thing I can think of is that several years ago there used to be 110V outlets in bathroms for shaving gear...but thats not customary anymore.
The picture however could have been supplied by Krell themself and or borrowed from somewhere.
/ Micke
Re: Re: Krell AGAIN!
Hi Elso, I hope that you will not change your avatar, so everyone can see how you look like
Regarding Krill, my spelling is wobbly, thats why I spel it like that, I actualy wanted to write KILL
Best regards,
Audiofanatic
Elso Kwak said:
Hi Audiofanatic,
A servicemanual for a Krill? You must be kidding. Krill isn't that food for wails? Pearls for the swines, throwing to the wolves.....
Hi Elso, I hope that you will not change your avatar, so everyone can see how you look like
Regarding Krill, my spelling is wobbly, thats why I spel it like that, I actualy wanted to write KILL
Best regards,
Audiofanatic
Re: Re: Re: Krell AGAIN!
Hi Audiofanatic,
KILL??? Changing my avatar?? Why should I do that? You want to see my face? You would be disappointed! I feel great this way!
Audiofanatic said:
Hi Elso, I hope that you will not change your avatar, so everyone can see how you look like
Regarding Krill, my spelling is wobbly, thats why I spel it like that, I actualy wanted to write KILL
Best regards,
Audiofanatic
Hi Audiofanatic,
KILL??? Changing my avatar?? Why should I do that? You want to see my face? You would be disappointed! I feel great this way!
OK I bought a multimeter today... can you just verify that I can't totally ruin my machine with this device?
Secondly, what setting do I want to put it on - there is a clock dial on it. I'm presuming I want to put it into the OHM section for measuring resistance... THere is 20M, 200K, 20K, 2000 and 200. Any ideas??
Thirdly, once i have the right setting, I presume I put one of the needles at the base of the live (black wire) and the other needle at the other end of the black wire - forgive my ignorance, that probably seems like a very silly question... This will then give me a readout which i note down and then I do the same with neutral connection right?
Then I flick the switches and hopefully I'll get quadrupled reading meaning the switches are correctly configured. Is that correct?
Thanks,
Brian.
Secondly, what setting do I want to put it on - there is a clock dial on it. I'm presuming I want to put it into the OHM section for measuring resistance... THere is 20M, 200K, 20K, 2000 and 200. Any ideas??
Thirdly, once i have the right setting, I presume I put one of the needles at the base of the live (black wire) and the other needle at the other end of the black wire - forgive my ignorance, that probably seems like a very silly question... This will then give me a readout which i note down and then I do the same with neutral connection right?
Then I flick the switches and hopefully I'll get quadrupled reading meaning the switches are correctly configured. Is that correct?
Thanks,
Brian.
Set the meter to ohms/resistance. Use the lowest setting you can, which appears in your case to be 200 ohms.
No! All you are doing there is measuring the resistance of the wire. Connect between live pin and netural pin on the input socket. Then flick switches and see what readings you get.
Do not connect any power at all.
As, k-amps suggested, I'd really like you to get a friend to help you. This is really basic stuff, but you obviously haven't a clue
Good luck
No! All you are doing there is measuring the resistance of the wire. Connect between live pin and netural pin on the input socket. Then flick switches and see what readings you get.
Do not connect any power at all.
As, k-amps suggested, I'd really like you to get a friend to help you. This is really basic stuff, but you obviously haven't a clue
Good luck
thanks guys - yup i'm a noob of the first degree but am learning (eh hem....)
OK here are the results of the test....(ohmmeter set at 200 - black needle on neutral pin, red needle on live pin of mains input socket)
Setting of switches (SW1+SW2+SW3) : Resistance
2 + 1 + 2 : 4 ohms (original 120V/60hz setting)
1 + 1 + 2 : 13
2 + 2 + 2 : 0.5
1 + 2 + 2 : 6
2 + 1 + 1 : 4.4
1 + 1 + 1 : 4.1
2 + 2 + 1 : 4.5
1 + 2 + 1 : 6
I have a digital multimeter and it was hopping around the place like mad. It was ultra sensitve but these results seemed to be its general resting place. Are these results expected? Are they way off the mark? Any idea which switch positions may now be correct? (Don't worry, I'm not plugging anything in quite yet...)
Thanks!
OK here are the results of the test....(ohmmeter set at 200 - black needle on neutral pin, red needle on live pin of mains input socket)
Setting of switches (SW1+SW2+SW3) : Resistance
2 + 1 + 2 : 4 ohms (original 120V/60hz setting)
1 + 1 + 2 : 13
2 + 2 + 2 : 0.5
1 + 2 + 2 : 6
2 + 1 + 1 : 4.4
1 + 1 + 1 : 4.1
2 + 2 + 1 : 4.5
1 + 2 + 1 : 6
I have a digital multimeter and it was hopping around the place like mad. It was ultra sensitve but these results seemed to be its general resting place. Are these results expected? Are they way off the mark? Any idea which switch positions may now be correct? (Don't worry, I'm not plugging anything in quite yet...)
Thanks!
I'd say that as you are looking for an approx 4x increase in resistance (due to the windings being in series as opposed to the original parallel) the 13 ohm setting would be the one to go for.
You also need to use a smaller mains fuse, and I don't mean the mains plug fuse (although this will also probably need to be smaller). See if there are any markings on the case for the recommended rating for 240v use. If there are none, use half the value what is already fitted. This will not be something you can buy from Currys or Dixons, you need a proper electrical shop or Maplin, RS, Farnell, CPC etc. as it's a 20mm fuse. If the fuse is marked with a 'T' that means it is a slow-blow fuse. This is the type most likely to be fitted. The other type is 'F' for fast-blow.
You also need to use a smaller mains fuse, and I don't mean the mains plug fuse (although this will also probably need to be smaller). See if there are any markings on the case for the recommended rating for 240v use. If there are none, use half the value what is already fitted. This will not be something you can buy from Currys or Dixons, you need a proper electrical shop or Maplin, RS, Farnell, CPC etc. as it's a 20mm fuse. If the fuse is marked with a 'T' that means it is a slow-blow fuse. This is the type most likely to be fitted. The other type is 'F' for fast-blow.
Personally I would measure all the six windings going to the
transformer (disconnect from the swiching board) and trace
the switching back to the mains input to understand whats
going on.
But of your measurements the 13 ohm one is the only one
that could possibly work.
Personally I'd be unhappy not understanding it further.
sreten.
transformer (disconnect from the swiching board) and trace
the switching back to the mains input to understand whats
going on.
But of your measurements the 13 ohm one is the only one
that could possibly work.
Personally I'd be unhappy not understanding it further.
sreten.
brianboru said:
Hi Brian
I admire your persistance, I wish I was so dedicated. You've been given good advice and when your conversion works as I'm sure it will, it will show Absoulte Sounds in a very bad light. I might consider reporting them to trading standards.
While I agree that the 13 ohm switch combo is almost certainly the correct one, if it were me I would try to get my hands on a service manual just to be sure of the new fuse rating, etc. Give Krell a ring and they may email it to you free, or charge a small fee for a printed copy. Just to be sure, you might want to have a company name for yourself ready
Good luck, and keep us up to date,
Tim.
hello chaps - thank you one and all for your excellent advice. i never imagined i'd get such helpful responses!
As a complete ignoramus on circuits and electrickery, I'm not sure it would be too wise for me to go ahead with the 13ohm combination until i get the resistance measured by someone in the know. One thing is for sure, I can't let Absolute Sounds win this battle. Over the weekend I'm going to formulate some kind of strategy to extrapolate the info from them - whilst it doesn't involve blackmailD ) it will involve informing Krell what a bad name Absolute Sounds is giving their customers in the UK. I also have a few legal friends who may be able to point me in the right direction law-wise. I just can't see how it can cost $1000 to convert a machine that cost $2000.
Finally, when I do eventually get this machine converted, I will let you know how it was done and what the winning combination was... In the meantime I wish you all the best and thank you once more for your help.
Regards
Brian.
As a complete ignoramus on circuits and electrickery, I'm not sure it would be too wise for me to go ahead with the 13ohm combination until i get the resistance measured by someone in the know. One thing is for sure, I can't let Absolute Sounds win this battle. Over the weekend I'm going to formulate some kind of strategy to extrapolate the info from them - whilst it doesn't involve blackmail
D ) it will involve informing Krell what a bad name Absolute Sounds is giving their customers in the UK. I also have a few legal friends who may be able to point me in the right direction law-wise. I just can't see how it can cost $1000 to convert a machine that cost $2000. Finally, when I do eventually get this machine converted, I will let you know how it was done and what the winning combination was... In the meantime I wish you all the best and thank you once more for your help.
Regards
Brian.
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