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#101 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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Quote:
perhaps i have a defective unit...? i put the voltage code back to 2 1 1 , and went to a friend of mine who have a variotrafo, and gave it 110 volts. the same happened, only red lights in all the inputs bulbs. mine is medio 96', and have the hdcd upgrade.... i have a p300 on its way from the states - perhaps this will do the trick. please tell me about your experience with the kps20i, the sound, have you done any mods to it - perhaps new I/V op amps....? new caps and other rectifiers.....? are you happy with this player...?
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#102 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brisbane
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Quote:
The check is done in software on the microcontroller, if done at all. Check if there is a white label on a chip on the board mounted inside the front panel. It probably states the model number, software release number and possibly frequency.
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-Tor |
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#103 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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Quote:
i'll see if i can take it apart and have a look......thanks
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#104 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brisbane
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Can you supply C and R values for 60Hz please?
And do you know which pin the 68HC711 senses frequency on?
__________________
-Tor |
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: London UK
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by tbla
[B] well i looked carefully after it, but couldn't find anything..... perhaps i have a defective unit...? i put the voltage code back to 2 1 1 , and went to a friend of mine who have a variotrafo, and gave it 110 volts. the same happened, only red lights in all the inputs bulbs. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Looks like you bought a lemon! Did you try it before you bought? It is unlikely that the 20i will have frequency detection. Sounds fine, not modded mine; used it for a long time as transport. Sounds better with the door open or weighted down. |
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#106 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: near Paris
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Quote:
I don't know the pin, I just found the right track on the PCB where the opto give the 50 Hz in TTL level, I cut the track, and put the oscillator output (tuned with an oscillo at 60 Hz) on the track which go to the micro-processor. Philippe |
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#107 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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Quote:
but ok, it just needs to be fixed - can't be that big a problem......and while i'm at it, all the old caps can be exchanged for some new and better ones....... i'm really currious about how good this unit really is - did you compare it to others....?
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#108 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: London UK
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no i didn't - as i got it from a dealer in new york and it was "playing fine" as he said.......
but ok, it just needs to be fixed - can't be that big a problem......and while i'm at it, all the old caps can be exchanged for some new and better ones....... i'm really currious about how good this unit really is - did you compare it to others....? ------------------------------------------------------------------ For some years this was my reference. Go to Stereophile.com and read archive reviews. I now use dCS (Pro units which are cheaper) which are much better than even very high end stuff. The OP27 opamps certainly need changing. How much did you pay and how much will it cost to fix? |
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#109 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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i got it for £ 2000.
well, i don't no yet whats wrong with it - so i don't no how much it will cost to fix it...... i can't find the stereophile review or for that matter the hifi news review - if you know were to get it - it would be good reading for me......
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#110 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: London UK
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Quote:
I would have sold mine to you for less - mint and working! Look in the archive section of Stereophile. It was there. |
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