Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, but I'm sure someone will know. I just bought and installed my SSL EV2.2000 upside down, because it was more convenient, as opposed to soldering more wire to meet the length requirements. Am I going to do any damage to my amp? I just installed it today, and it sounds marvelous, but I did notice it was hot for the amount of time I had it on (about 20 minutes). Any feedback would be much appreciated!
That is a Really bad idea. Even if it is actually a class B amplifier and can output anywhere near the specified power, and it is asked to do that, it is going to get too hot even with carefully added forced air. In a way you're probably in luck as it probably can't actually output anywhere near that much power without clipping.
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It's a class A/B 2 channel, and it can output 2000W bridged @ 4 ohms. I'm only using 1 channel rated @ 500W RMS to my 2 RF 10's, wired in series, so 250 a piece, right? So I'm not pushing it as hard as I could, but still a bad idea? I have it mounted to the box, so it's not on the floor and upside down, but it IS upside down vertically. I never had to do that to an amp, this one was backwards from any I've previously owned. If it came down to it I'd do what I had to do to make it right, just wondering if being lazy will bite me in the @$$.
Top side in on a vertical mount is not as bad, but still gives you less cooling than you want.
By the way, a 50 amp fuse can only let the amp draw about 700 Watts from the B+ before shutting down, assuming 80% power supply efficiency, that leaves around 550 left for the amps. So about another 20% less than that total is likely to make it into the speakers before clipping. If the amp were marketed as 400W, it would at least be within the realm of physical possibility.
By the way, a 50 amp fuse can only let the amp draw about 700 Watts from the B+ before shutting down, assuming 80% power supply efficiency, that leaves around 550 left for the amps. So about another 20% less than that total is likely to make it into the speakers before clipping. If the amp were marketed as 400W, it would at least be within the realm of physical possibility.
First lets start with a reality check.
SoundStorm SSL EV2.2000 Evolution 2-Channel Car Amplifier/Amp
Evolution Series 2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 350 watts x 2 chan.
Max power output:
2 ohms: 1000 watts x 2 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
Fuse Rating 20A x 2
Looking at pictures of the CAR amplifier, and that they sell for ~$200 us dollars.
My personal thought is itd be lucky to get to half that without exploding.
Fuses. 2x20amp. IF it is one fuse per side (not likely knowing how cheap amps are built)
then 20amp x 13vdc = 260 watts power draw Per side. (even if you fudge the voltage to 15v it still only hits 300w)
class a/b then means you might have around 50% efficiency, so that drops your possible 260w to around 130watts per side.
This then has to be related back to how much power the heat sink can dissipate.
100w looks more realistic with the pissy little heatsinks in the pics.
now, you say your only using one channel.
so how is that 250 each ?
its not.
obviously your refering to the speakers connected to the amp.
But, your still only drawing all the power from ONE channel.
so why not run one speaker, of each amp channel.
that would mean the heat and stress is distributed evenly across the amp and give it the best chance for long term life.
all of the above is just a super quick throw out estimate.
And why, did you not post this in the CAR AUDIO forum ????
EDIT.
The way its built, the only reason for worrying about mounting is to get clear air above it for heat convection away from the amp.
SoundStorm SSL EV2.2000 Evolution 2-Channel Car Amplifier/Amp
Evolution Series 2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 350 watts x 2 chan.
Max power output:
2 ohms: 1000 watts x 2 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
Fuse Rating 20A x 2
Looking at pictures of the CAR amplifier, and that they sell for ~$200 us dollars.
My personal thought is itd be lucky to get to half that without exploding.
Fuses. 2x20amp. IF it is one fuse per side (not likely knowing how cheap amps are built)
then 20amp x 13vdc = 260 watts power draw Per side. (even if you fudge the voltage to 15v it still only hits 300w)
class a/b then means you might have around 50% efficiency, so that drops your possible 260w to around 130watts per side.
This then has to be related back to how much power the heat sink can dissipate.
100w looks more realistic with the pissy little heatsinks in the pics.
now, you say your only using one channel.
so how is that 250 each ?
its not.
obviously your refering to the speakers connected to the amp.
But, your still only drawing all the power from ONE channel.
so why not run one speaker, of each amp channel.
that would mean the heat and stress is distributed evenly across the amp and give it the best chance for long term life.
all of the above is just a super quick throw out estimate.
And why, did you not post this in the CAR AUDIO forum ????
EDIT.
The way its built, the only reason for worrying about mounting is to get clear air above it for heat convection away from the amp.
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Well, I'll start running some actual facts, taken directly from the manual included with my amp.
4 ohms: 500W X 2 channels, the other specs are correct.
the amp has 25A X 2
I got mine for 112 tax included.
I thought since one channel is 500W and I wired them in series, the power is distributed equally to both subs (which are SVC).
I'll try using 1 channel per sub, I just didn't want to overpower them, they're only rated for 300W RMS, I thought that if I used both channels it would be overkill according to the manual provided with the amp.
I had a question about an amp, so I posted it in the amplifier forum, and I couldn't find one for Class A/B.
Thanks for the tip tho, I'll definitely give it a try with both channels, but I was pretty impressed with what I get from just 1 channel! I could imagine bridging the beast!
Thanks for the responses, I'll try and find the appropriate forum to post on next time.
4 ohms: 500W X 2 channels, the other specs are correct.
the amp has 25A X 2
I got mine for 112 tax included.
I thought since one channel is 500W and I wired them in series, the power is distributed equally to both subs (which are SVC).
I'll try using 1 channel per sub, I just didn't want to overpower them, they're only rated for 300W RMS, I thought that if I used both channels it would be overkill according to the manual provided with the amp.
I had a question about an amp, so I posted it in the amplifier forum, and I couldn't find one for Class A/B.
Thanks for the tip tho, I'll definitely give it a try with both channels, but I was pretty impressed with what I get from just 1 channel! I could imagine bridging the beast!
Thanks for the responses, I'll try and find the appropriate forum to post on next time.
I don't normally engage those that bite the hand that feeds them.
But what the heck, heres some light reading for you
Ohhh an actual manual. yes we all believe what we read. don't we ?
is that 500w rms ? or peak ? or pmpo ? at what distortion level ? at what voltage level ?
$112, ohhhhh yes that inspires confidence in its build quality.
Because you know, the cheaper it is the better quality it is.
Guess thats why Bentleys can be bought for $112 from your local discount store.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
14.4v (at best from an alternator, unless the regulator is faulty)
50amps (from your reference)
14.4v x 50a = 720w
720w divide 2 = 360w
Thats is if you have a magical unit that has zero loss from the inefficiency of the power supply and amplifier circuit.
I still believe you'd be lucky to see much over 100w RMS per channel before the magic smoke comes out.
Shall we throw in rail sag for good measure ?
research switchmode power supply efficiency. Maybe 85% if your lucky.
research class A/B efficiency. Lets be generous and say %85.
research Class A/B biasing and its effect on heat output and final achievable power output.
No way would that heatsink dissipate 150watts of heat without the devices clamped to it melting the solder.
even so, mythical 360w -15% (power supply losses) = 306w - 15% (amplifier losses) = 260w achievable per channel, at best.
But please, ask a question, then feel free to argue with those trying to help you.
Personally I have 30 years experience in auto electrics and car audio.
Designed wiring looms, rewired cars, trucks, boats. By trucks I mean the big ones, what you yanks call 'big rigs' or '18 wheelers'.
Built half a dozen home amplifiers.
Washed down with 30 years of audio repair and modification, both home and car.
You came here asking questions.
If you don't like the answer, feel free to disprove the known laws of science and the universe.
Otherwise, Please, I hope you have an awesome week
But what the heck, heres some light reading for you
Ohhh an actual manual. yes we all believe what we read. don't we ?
is that 500w rms ? or peak ? or pmpo ? at what distortion level ? at what voltage level ?
$112, ohhhhh yes that inspires confidence in its build quality.
Because you know, the cheaper it is the better quality it is.
Guess thats why Bentleys can be bought for $112 from your local discount store.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
14.4v (at best from an alternator, unless the regulator is faulty)
50amps (from your reference)
14.4v x 50a = 720w
720w divide 2 = 360w
Thats is if you have a magical unit that has zero loss from the inefficiency of the power supply and amplifier circuit.
I still believe you'd be lucky to see much over 100w RMS per channel before the magic smoke comes out.
Shall we throw in rail sag for good measure ?
research switchmode power supply efficiency. Maybe 85% if your lucky.
research class A/B efficiency. Lets be generous and say %85.
research Class A/B biasing and its effect on heat output and final achievable power output.
No way would that heatsink dissipate 150watts of heat without the devices clamped to it melting the solder.
even so, mythical 360w -15% (power supply losses) = 306w - 15% (amplifier losses) = 260w achievable per channel, at best.
But please, ask a question, then feel free to argue with those trying to help you.
Personally I have 30 years experience in auto electrics and car audio.
Designed wiring looms, rewired cars, trucks, boats. By trucks I mean the big ones, what you yanks call 'big rigs' or '18 wheelers'.
Built half a dozen home amplifiers.
Washed down with 30 years of audio repair and modification, both home and car.
You came here asking questions.
If you don't like the answer, feel free to disprove the known laws of science and the universe.
Otherwise, Please, I hope you have an awesome week
Oh. If he's just asking about rotating it on the plane pictured, there's no problem at all with the mounting. Upside down to me meant leaving only the steel bottom cover exposed, which would chop maybe 25% off the heatsink performance. I admit the question didn't make much sense to me.
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LOL thanks for taking all the time it took to type all that! You put me in my place!
Thanks! I'm barely a novice, not claiming to know anything here, just wanted to know if it'd be safe to mount upside down vertically! I'm pleased with the performance from 1 channel, so I'm about to go wire it for 2 and be smiling ear to ear!
Hi,
Going back to the original question I can't see
any problem with mounting it upside down.
rgds, sreten.
For $110 be realistic about power output, and use both channels.
Thanks! I'm barely a novice, not claiming to know anything here, just wanted to know if it'd be safe to mount upside down vertically! I'm pleased with the performance from 1 channel, so I'm about to go wire it for 2 and be smiling ear to ear!
If you want to give the amp a little bit of a break in your adventures to maximally load it, putting some blocks of 3/4 or 1" material under the screw points to stand it off from the mounting surface will, conversely in a way to the bulk of this discussion, improve cooling quite a bit, even though it may not look as smooth. Bridging into the same pair speakers in series will not change output power, compared to 2 channel, 2 speaker drive. Your load wiring is probably already optimized if the drivers are 4 ohm.
If it's on the box vertically, some space underneath the amp can drop the temperature, especially for board mounted components, significantly. MDF particularly is an impressive thermal insulator, even better when covered in carpet. Even if the amp manages to output 200 WRMS per channel, the sink is going to get really hot. Life or death can be a matter of 10C difference here and there. Just depends on how long you expect it to live doing what.
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