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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: illinois
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oh yeah and it said on the casing that it was rated @ 500mA output
which is .5A right? so at 4.5 x .5a its good for what 2.25W? lol not much but something to play with ![]() now i need to design and input stage and output stage with as few parts as possible this is one hell of a newb project lol |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: illinois
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ok i just realized i have d1 and d2 backwards on the schematic lol
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
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103 on a capacitor means
10 times 10 to the 3rd power. More simply, 10 plus 3 zeros tacked onto the end of it or 10,000 pFd. 10pFd = .01 µFd. By the way, to get the µ symbol, hold down the Alt key and type 230. 500mA is indeed 1/2 Amp.
__________________
Dan Fraser |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: illinois
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well since i have this for a power suppy stage anyone give me some ideas on how to beef it up?
and or just use it as a cheasy little experimental amp anyone know of any amps that would only need this sort of power 2 watts lol
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
Are you one of those monks that writes down an assembly program for a micro controller and then convert it to ones and zero’s by hand using pencil and paper? Kaukasion, If it is for drawing schematics only, have a look at DesignWorks: http://www.capilano.com/dwmlite.html It was originally written for the Mac some 20 years ago. It is one of the easiest to learn programs with a nice user-friendly user interface and on a Mac it gives splendid graphic results. It was written by skilled programmers (not engineers) for engineers and with a lot of help of engineers using it. It is available for Windows also. Cheers
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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Quote:
No, if I program at all nowadays, I prefer high-level languages. I did it the way you describe with my first computer, though. I didn't even have an assembler for it, so I had to write assembler code on paper and then translate manually to machine code and enter that by hand. It can be useful to do a couple of times as a pedagogical exercise, perhaps, but it's not a very efficient way to do it on modern computers. It was a different thing 25 years ago, though, having only 16KB RAM and only a casette recorder as storage device. ![]() I have learnt over the years, however, that sometimes or even often it is better not to use a computer at all to do ceratain things. I don't know how much time I have wasted over the years insisting on using computers for things that I realize later would have been both easier and quicker to do by hand. Too much of modern software is also rather an obstacle than a help to use computers efficiently IMHO. |
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