To reask a question that's been asked a million times, any harm in leaving your class A amplifier on all day every day?
I heard it can wear out capacitors or something, but then another website says that no -- actually your capacitors wear out from the surge of energy that goes into them when you turn the amp off and on, and that a class A amp lasts longer if you leave it on all the time.
Does anyone know the answer?
I heard it can wear out capacitors or something, but then another website says that no -- actually your capacitors wear out from the surge of energy that goes into them when you turn the amp off and on, and that a class A amp lasts longer if you leave it on all the time.
Does anyone know the answer?
Hi,
The second statement is true for pretty much near everything.
(e.g. lightbulbs, they always go being turned on.)
On/Off cycles greatly reduce reliability, but well designed
equipment is so intrinsically reliable it doesn't really care.
rgds, sreten.
Early valve computers were only reliable if never switched off.
The second statement is true for pretty much near everything.
(e.g. lightbulbs, they always go being turned on.)
On/Off cycles greatly reduce reliability, but well designed
equipment is so intrinsically reliable it doesn't really care.
rgds, sreten.
Early valve computers were only reliable if never switched off.
Hi,
No. But I have a friend who doesn't like using his (IMO utterly stupid)
single ended class A monoblocks in the summer, due to the heat,
and he would not remotely consider leaving them on all the time.
But he got valve life to deal with as well, presumably you don't.
No harm basically.
rgds, sreten.
No. But I have a friend who doesn't like using his (IMO utterly stupid)
single ended class A monoblocks in the summer, due to the heat,
and he would not remotely consider leaving them on all the time.
But he got valve life to deal with as well, presumably you don't.
No harm basically.
rgds, sreten.
Kyoto Protocol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Seems wasteful to leave it on all the time.
Seems wasteful to leave it on all the time.
I think it depends on if the ventilation is adequate enough that the internal components, electrolytics caps in particular, stay as cool as possible. Long ago I owned a Stax Class A 40 watt amp. That bugger put out a lot of heat and much of it ended up inside the case, the components were under a lot of thermal stress if it wasn't allowed plenty of free space to work in. That was one of the the best sounding amps I've ever owned, but the heat output was a real problem.
Mike
Mike
The only thing that could be a problem is the electrolyte drying out inside the capacitors. The higher the temperature the quicker it goes, so leaving the amp on all the time will dry the electrolyte out at a faster rate, but if this is a problem depends entirely on the amplifiers thermal design. Some class A amplifiers don't get that hot inside the case as they are well ventilated and all the heat is conducted away through externally mounted heatsinks.
I shut my class A stuff off after listening.
And turn it on 1h befor critical listening. That should be the warm up time in my case.
if caps have a shorter live because on/off, i will recap the amp a little bit earlier, should cost the same like the Extended power bill if i leave it on the hole time.
Interesting for the on/off question for me, is only how long dos it take till the amp sound at its best.
And turn it on 1h befor critical listening. That should be the warm up time in my case.
if caps have a shorter live because on/off, i will recap the amp a little bit earlier, should cost the same like the Extended power bill if i leave it on the hole time.
Interesting for the on/off question for me, is only how long dos it take till the amp sound at its best.
Did the heat kill the amp, or was the heat just annoying? This amp is a Burson Conductor, Burson Audio Australia About Burson Audio
I like it because it's very clear and transparent. Makes all songs sound different. Not an all the time amp but it's good for a change of pace.
It does get pretty hot, especially since I keep it in a cabinet that is closed (except for like a 7 inch by 7 inch vent in the back).
Basically I'm trying to simplify my life. It would be nice if I could just leave it on (it probably gets 130 degrees inside?) and just have it ready to go whenever I get a desire to listen to it. Why does super high quality audio require so much babying?
I'm with you on snake oil in audiophile stuff. For example, I purchased three amps (including the highly rated Fiio E17 and Objective2 by nwavguy) and they were all complete snake oil that did nothing special. But this Burson product really improves the quality of the sound I hear from digital music files. It's like 5% clearer (nothing earth shattering) but definitely not my imagination. Again I can hear lips smacking in vocals, something I had never noticed before. Diminishing returns for sure, but returns nonetheless.
It doesn't; that's snake oil too.
Your amp will not perform better for being on all the time. It does not need to "warm up" more than a few minutes for the bias to settle. After that, it cannot change its "sound".
It does not require any sort of babying. Use it like any home appliance: when you need it, and what you need it for.
If it is winter time then any excess heat is that much less heat that the home heater has to produce. Same thing with light bulbs, or rather incandescence bulbs. That little fact is usually not considered when arguing against that type of light bulb use. This means that in the winter time, use of incandescence bulbs indoors is actually quite efficient. Switch bulb types in summer and don't leave the class A 'heater' on continuously.
Switch bulb types in summer and don't leave the class A 'heater' on continuously.See if you Google around for this you will find tons of audio sites from across the spectrum (headphone audio, full sized audio . . .) claiming that amps do sound better if you leave then on but of course there is a controversy. Too many to ignore of you ask me. I have no scientific proof but I tend to think it's true.
Electrolytic caps "were out" from heat and time. The failure mode is a slow drying out of the electrolyte. Totally different from the thermal shock from silicon or light bulbs.
If I were to be done for the evening, I would turn it off.
Yes, Bryston does a lot of things correctly. I credit their output stage and careful attention to physical layout. THe rest I suspect is "Madison Av. engineering"
If I were to be done for the evening, I would turn it off.
Yes, Bryston does a lot of things correctly. I credit their output stage and careful attention to physical layout. THe rest I suspect is "Madison Av. engineering"
If it is winter time then any excess heat is that much less heat that the home heater has to produce. Same thing with light bulbs, or rather incandescence bulbs. That little fact is usually not considered when arguing against that type of light bulb use. This means that in the winter time, use of incandescence bulbs indoors is actually quite efficient.
True, but only if you use resistive heat. As I have gas, I only get the benefit of the "waste heat" for about 40%. The bigger issue not discussed is the amount of energy needed to make a CFL or LED lamp assembles, cost of the toxic waste, higher shipping etc. I happen to like LED's now we have color choices but hate CFL's due to their slow turn on and noise. LED's can also do a number on power line harmonics though. I have not paid the big bucks for one of the new Phillips bulbs that mimics incandescent when dimmed. I look forward to the large panel LEDs a few years off. No ugly light fixture, just light everywhere like a Star Trek set. Saw an add for a fake skylight using LED's Slick.
In the IT business, we learn to understand TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) Unfortunately, the public at large is usually a victim of the old adage: Their are liars, damn liars, and statisticians.
PS: I have a cache of 60W a-base bulbs! It is just stupid to use an "efficient" bulb in my garden shed. I have had the same bulb in there for over 20 years.
PPS: The false energy savings of ethanol is coming to light finally. I do like that it keeps the engine very clean reducing the need for other toxic additives, but it is now clear, it takes more oil and produces more CO2 than to just use gas. That said, it has helped the US be oil neutral even though it's energy density (lower MPG) means I can't quite make it a week on one tank.
Thank you. I googled a bit and it confirmed what you said about how electrolytic caps have time limited lives and how heat shortens that life. There were no sites claiming otherwise. Since there are certainly a tons of caps inside the Conductor, keeping it on inside a 130 degree enclosure is probably bad and keeping it on all the time will shorten its life.
Edit: Although I guess, to be fair, I should be researching the decrease in life caused by turning the product on. Some other website said amps go through a lot of stress when you first turn them on, so much so that this stress outweighs the stress of keeping them on constantly in a "stable" state.
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