I think he's trying to say that it isn't safe. Too many people have tried to use them as 'pro' amps and had them die spectacularly with 4R loads. If you're going to be gentle with it it's probably ok, but weren't you asking about subs for heavy metal?
If yours has the original PL909's in it DON'T. If you replace them with MJ21196's (and 95's if you have a complementary version) it's OK in a *home* environment. The 66546 drivers could also use the upgrade if you do this.
To bridge, you need to out-phase the two inputs. The easiest way is to drive the whole thing with a balanced XLR signal. Drive one channel with the hot side and the other with the cold. Ground is common. If there is ANY DC offset at all, capacitor couple with a couple of 10uF polys as there are no input caps on these amps. Put the gain controls all the way up and leave them there. You may even want to disable the pots - if one gets turned down and that side of the amp doesn't get driven as much you will fry the outputs in that side.
And keep a fan on it. Back in the day (DJing with these things) we had a parody rap song about someone in the biz who was "too cool to use a fan on his Phase Linear".
If yours has the original PL909's in it DON'T. If you replace them with MJ21196's (and 95's if you have a complementary version) it's OK in a *home* environment. The 66546 drivers could also use the upgrade if you do this.
To bridge, you need to out-phase the two inputs. The easiest way is to drive the whole thing with a balanced XLR signal. Drive one channel with the hot side and the other with the cold. Ground is common. If there is ANY DC offset at all, capacitor couple with a couple of 10uF polys as there are no input caps on these amps. Put the gain controls all the way up and leave them there. You may even want to disable the pots - if one gets turned down and that side of the amp doesn't get driven as much you will fry the outputs in that side.
And keep a fan on it. Back in the day (DJing with these things) we had a parody rap song about someone in the biz who was "too cool to use a fan on his Phase Linear".
Second the "don't" message
I have a Phase Linear 700, using it at home at reasonable levels. Never had a problem with it, but it's seriously challenged in the heatsink area. I've seen more heatsink on 200w amps....
If you really need to put 1000 watts, you need an amp designed to do that. This one isn't.
I have a Phase Linear 700, using it at home at reasonable levels. Never had a problem with it, but it's seriously challenged in the heatsink area. I've seen more heatsink on 200w amps....
If you really need to put 1000 watts, you need an amp designed to do that. This one isn't.
Thanks for the great info! I've seen those "upgrade kits" on ebay for the Phase Linear. Is that something you would recommend I do? This amp is a surviver from my old rock band in the 1980"s. We had eight 700 Series II's. Some nights those two racks would smoke like a maple sugar shack! It boasts some scars but still rocks (lost it's 'love handles' though)! It now resides in my home Hi Fy "Frankenstereo" with two 4" boxer fans.
Yes that's me. I make it power my metal sub. I've always fed it an 8 ohm load and so far (25 years) so good. Like a Timex...takes a lick'in and keeps on tick'in. LOL
It's been staring at me all these years with it's big sad red eyes, so I thought I would take it for a nice walk across the bridge.
Hey wg_ski...could you be my 'go to' guy for PL questions? You seem to know your way around them quite well, Doc.
Thanks, Al.
Yes that's me. I make it power my metal sub. I've always fed it an 8 ohm load and so far (25 years) so good. Like a Timex...takes a lick'in and keeps on tick'in. LOL
It's been staring at me all these years with it's big sad red eyes, so I thought I would take it for a nice walk across the bridge.
Hey wg_ski...could you be my 'go to' guy for PL questions? You seem to know your way around them quite well, Doc.
Thanks, Al.
Hey jplesset, sounds good, don't it! Are you driving your whole system with it? I use mine for the sub. I use my Phase Linear DRS 400 on my low mid TL 12's. An old JVC on the upper mids and my old Vector Research on the tweets. Sounds like a Theme Park now don't it?
Thanks from your PL brother, Al.
Thanks from your PL brother, Al.
Don't buy the upgrade kits. You'll just as likley get fake transistors as real ones. Only buy transistors from authorized distributors, unless the seller is willing to let you pop the cover on a couple of them to verify authenticity before you buy any real quantity.
If yours are surviving after band use, you've probably got the ones with MJ15024's in them. The 400's we had were a little less prone to blowout - but it could still be done. We used to put 2SD424's in them (can't do that with a 700 though, you need the Motorolas) and they'd never fail again no matter how hot they got. There are also a couple of resistors that would cook the PCB over time, even idling, and those would need attention.
Other than a lot of watts for little money, those "big sad red eyes" were definitely part of the charm. And the clip indicator that looks like Pac-Man when it's going full tilt.
If yours are surviving after band use, you've probably got the ones with MJ15024's in them. The 400's we had were a little less prone to blowout - but it could still be done. We used to put 2SD424's in them (can't do that with a 700 though, you need the Motorolas) and they'd never fail again no matter how hot they got. There are also a couple of resistors that would cook the PCB over time, even idling, and those would need attention.
Other than a lot of watts for little money, those "big sad red eyes" were definitely part of the charm. And the clip indicator that looks like Pac-Man when it's going full tilt.
"I found this today."
Looks like it should work.
If you build my PPSL sub with the dual Eminence Kappa Pro 15LF-2 and wire the drivers in series it will be a 16Ω load for the Phase and be about the right amount of power too.
This system used four (two per side) driven on one channel of a Crest CA9 to produce 122dB at 20' on dance music, it was chest crushing. EVM 12L drivers were on the mids (two per side), on the other channel of the CA9, a CA6 drove the HF.
I have a friend using one of these PPSL at home with a 500W Parts Express plate amp, he uses Klipsch HIP with the EVM 12L woofer for this top end. His basement is huge, and it really plays loud (and kicks).
The PPSL is only about 30" x 24" 24", and can be built from one sheet of 4x8 plus about a 1/4 sheet. No fancy angle cuts are used. With the recommended drivers it will not exceed x-max with 1200W, so your bridged Phase would be fine.
Looks like it should work.
If you build my PPSL sub with the dual Eminence Kappa Pro 15LF-2 and wire the drivers in series it will be a 16Ω load for the Phase and be about the right amount of power too.
This system used four (two per side) driven on one channel of a Crest CA9 to produce 122dB at 20' on dance music, it was chest crushing. EVM 12L drivers were on the mids (two per side), on the other channel of the CA9, a CA6 drove the HF.
I have a friend using one of these PPSL at home with a 500W Parts Express plate amp, he uses Klipsch HIP with the EVM 12L woofer for this top end. His basement is huge, and it really plays loud (and kicks).
The PPSL is only about 30" x 24" 24", and can be built from one sheet of 4x8 plus about a 1/4 sheet. No fancy angle cuts are used. With the recommended drivers it will not exceed x-max with 1200W, so your bridged Phase would be fine.
For all things Phase Linear, there is only 1 place to turn to and that is Phoenix audio community forum. These guys love Phase Linear stuff and are experts at upgrades.
They can answer any question.
Phoenix Audio Community Forums
They can answer any question.
Phoenix Audio Community Forums
Don't bridge a 700 - it will almost certainly exceed the breakdown voltage on the ouputs, no matter which ones you pick.
Also the power supply can't really handle it... if you think you really need 1kW of powah, consider the iNuke amps from Behringer - they're up to 12kW! That's if you need/want RAW POWAH!
Or one of the Crown MacroTech amps will do this sort of power without breaking a sweat.
_-_-
Also the power supply can't really handle it... if you think you really need 1kW of powah, consider the iNuke amps from Behringer - they're up to 12kW! That's if you need/want RAW POWAH!
Or one of the Crown MacroTech amps will do this sort of power without breaking a sweat.
_-_-
Bear, sorry. It's not about what I need. I consider the ringer stuff below dbx.
Anyone can load up on new age marvels. Did you know about the toasters that can not burn toast?
I'm not the young lad enjoying his store bought stuff.
Thanks, Al.
PS: Next time I think I need 1kW of "powah", I will look at my neighbor with his hat on side ways and think of you, bro.
Anyone can load up on new age marvels. Did you know about the toasters that can not burn toast?
I'm not the young lad enjoying his store bought stuff.
Thanks, Al.
PS: Next time I think I need 1kW of "powah", I will look at my neighbor with his hat on side ways and think of you, bro.
"Don't bridge a 700 - it will almost certainly exceed the breakdown voltage on the ouputs, no matter which ones you pick."
Please explain that in great detail (it's dead wrong). Ever see a Crown M2000? Uses outputs that are only rated at 150V, and it puts out 2KW into 8Ω (hint: it's a bridge amp used in hospitals to output clean 120V/60hz).
"Also the power supply can't really handle it."
Dead wrong again.
Bridged at 16Ω is the same power as 8Ω per channel in stereo.
"Love your system! Where can I find plans for your PPSL sub?"
.
Please explain that in great detail (it's dead wrong). Ever see a Crown M2000? Uses outputs that are only rated at 150V, and it puts out 2KW into 8Ω (hint: it's a bridge amp used in hospitals to output clean 120V/60hz).
"Also the power supply can't really handle it."
Dead wrong again.
Bridged at 16Ω is the same power as 8Ω per channel in stereo.
"Love your system! Where can I find plans for your PPSL sub?"
.
Bass reflex with two drivers? One assisted? That is so cool. Multiple drivers increase the size of the cake recipe cost wise. I am stuck with a solo 18" butt kicker. I have some clean power to feed it mono. Multi is so much better. You can stack up a bunch of Corvairs and make a Corvette. I'd rather start out as a 4wd truck.
Thanks, Al.
Thanks, Al.
"Multiple drivers increase the size of the cake recipe cost wise"
The two 15's are less than the cost of a single good 18, have more cone area, less distortion, etc.
" I have some clean power to feed it mono"
That you do.
One channel driven on a PL700 at 8Ω is over 500W at clipping. Bridged would be a little less than twice that into 16Ω.
The drivers are also available in 4Ω, for an 8Ω cabinet (all the ones in my photos have two 4Ω drivers in series).
One box is about 100dB/1W/1M (adjusted for impedance).
I also have a design for a quad 12 version that is 8Ω, -3dB at 27hz (without room gain), is over 100dB/1W/1M, and uses Eminence 12's with a rubber surround. The four drivers frequently go on sale at Parts Express for less than a pair of the 15's (about $296 with free shipping).
I don't have a photo of the one that I built like this, but it was really sweet.
The PPSL is just a design idea, and may be applied to any size driver and loading method (sealed, vented, open-baffle, etc). I've seen 8's to 18's used (and a couple of quad 12's).
I prefer the 6th order vented alignment.
A 2 cu ft 2nd order sealed box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.18% efficient (84.55dB).
A 2 cu ft 4th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.36% efficient (87.56dB).
A 2 cu ft 6th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.90% efficient (91.54dB).
Danley makes four models of tapped horns with push-pull drivers, three use 12's, one uses 8's.
Wayne Parham makes a dual 12 push-pull front-load horn.
Ohm Acoustics (UK) make dual 12, 15, and 18 models.
The two 15's are less than the cost of a single good 18, have more cone area, less distortion, etc.
" I have some clean power to feed it mono"
That you do.
One channel driven on a PL700 at 8Ω is over 500W at clipping. Bridged would be a little less than twice that into 16Ω.
The drivers are also available in 4Ω, for an 8Ω cabinet (all the ones in my photos have two 4Ω drivers in series).
One box is about 100dB/1W/1M (adjusted for impedance).
I also have a design for a quad 12 version that is 8Ω, -3dB at 27hz (without room gain), is over 100dB/1W/1M, and uses Eminence 12's with a rubber surround. The four drivers frequently go on sale at Parts Express for less than a pair of the 15's (about $296 with free shipping).
I don't have a photo of the one that I built like this, but it was really sweet.
The PPSL is just a design idea, and may be applied to any size driver and loading method (sealed, vented, open-baffle, etc). I've seen 8's to 18's used (and a couple of quad 12's).
I prefer the 6th order vented alignment.
A 2 cu ft 2nd order sealed box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.18% efficient (84.55dB).
A 2 cu ft 4th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.36% efficient (87.56dB).
A 2 cu ft 6th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.90% efficient (91.54dB).
Danley makes four models of tapped horns with push-pull drivers, three use 12's, one uses 8's.
Wayne Parham makes a dual 12 push-pull front-load horn.
Ohm Acoustics (UK) make dual 12, 15, and 18 models.
I admit my personal preference for sealed boxes. I am currently using 4 10" sealed boxes, in multiple locations. That works well. Previously, I had 4 12" in a single 4-sided box out in the middle of the room. That worked well, too. Plays plenty loud enough, and there is enough headroom for realistic levels of classical and rock....
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