Hi !
Let me copy this from my intro thread 😛
I was recommended to go for the Leech amp by a friend, but for me, the amount of components needed is a bit huge. I'm worried that I might blow my speakers up if I do something wrong in soldering etc.
So, how do they compare in testing and troubleshooting. Which one is easier ?
BTW, SQ is important too.
Let me copy this from my intro thread 😛
I was recommended to go for the Leech amp by a friend, but for me, the amount of components needed is a bit huge. I'm worried that I might blow my speakers up if I do something wrong in soldering etc.
So, how do they compare in testing and troubleshooting. Which one is easier ?
BTW, SQ is important too.
Maybe you can bridge parallel LM3886.
For e more power than that, I guess 200W solid state amps are the way to go ;-)
For e more power than that, I guess 200W solid state amps are the way to go ;-)
Last edited:
Bridged paralleled TDA7293s would be my choice - paralleling LM3886 is not something I'd suggest to a noob.
To get the best SQ you'll need a kick-*** power supply though.
To get the best SQ you'll need a kick-*** power supply though.
Thats what I thought until...
TDA7293 !
So now, its Solid state amps vs 7293x4 !
BTW, cay you guys recommend a easy to troubleshoot solid state amp with good SQ ?
I'm currently googling the parallel bridging the 7293 and it would be great if someone can point me in the right direction regarding this as I'm not good when it comes to doing these things 😛
100W is only 2.2 dB louder than 60W, it's not going to make much of a difference. Your speakers measure like they are nominally 8 ohms, and with DCR that high they ought to be an easy load to drive. Unless you are trying to fill a very large room, 60W is probably enough. I'd suggest looking at your LM3886 amp first. You may be able to upgrade it to meet your needs.
Are the chips properly cooled? Are they on a decent size heat sink with proper thermal compound between chip and sink? What did you use for an isolator? My first chip amp seemed woefully underpowered until I got it mounted properly on a decent size sink. I suspect the built in thermal protection circuit was kicking in.
If that's not enough, a bridge/parrallel chip amp like in the app note is fairly easy to build. Not sure why the other poster thinks they are not noob friendly.
Are the chips properly cooled? Are they on a decent size heat sink with proper thermal compound between chip and sink? What did you use for an isolator? My first chip amp seemed woefully underpowered until I got it mounted properly on a decent size sink. I suspect the built in thermal protection circuit was kicking in.
If that's not enough, a bridge/parrallel chip amp like in the app note is fairly easy to build. Not sure why the other poster thinks they are not noob friendly.
Last edited:
One of the best and simplest discrete amp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/231662-peeceebee.html
1. I had an 150WPC TIP127 based kit amp (darlington pair ?) and it was "sufficient" and this sudden change to a more humble one in terms of power hasn't been a great one.
2. Power transformer is 27-0-27 5A or 6A with 2X 22000uF and 4X 2000uf (total) on the output (36V).
3. Its the cooling part that I think needs some work. The heatsink gets really hot and I'm using a table fan to cool it.
The PCB are done as dual monos with seperate heat sinks.
Here is the link to the kit I'm talking about
Wintek - 68W Mono (LM3886)
100W into 8ohms needs a +-50Vdc supply.
You get that from a 35+35Vac transformer.
A 36V 5A supply cannot get you 100W into 8ohms.
A 36V supply could get you to about 15W into 8r0 and maybe 25W into 4r0.
If you want to also drive a 4ohms speaker then the build becomes a 200W into 4ohms amplifier. That is a very different build from a 100W into 8ohms amplifier.
You get that from a 35+35Vac transformer.
A 36V 5A supply cannot get you 100W into 8ohms.
A 36V supply could get you to about 15W into 8r0 and maybe 25W into 4r0.
If you want to also drive a 4ohms speaker then the build becomes a 200W into 4ohms amplifier. That is a very different build from a 100W into 8ohms amplifier.
I'd suggest looking for a well documented project with at minimum commercially made boards if not a full kit of parts. Look for projects many have actually built. Rod Elliott, Elliott Sound Products (ESP), has several different projects available. I'm sure there are many others like the M400 located here that may be of interest (I have NOT built this, just pointing out what you can look for).
As already mentioned, your power goal won't be achievable with the current transformer you have unless you go for the complication of a technique called 'bridging', which basically doubles your amplifier circuitry.
As already mentioned, your power goal won't be achievable with the current transformer you have unless you go for the complication of a technique called 'bridging', which basically doubles your amplifier circuitry.
That's a marginal benefit. The main benefit of the 7293 is it can operate in master/slave mode, hence paralleling is a breeze. No need for sharing resistors, no need for close tolerance resistors defining the gain, no worries about one amp fighting the other.
@BobEllis - that National app note for paralleling has a number of errors which are likely to catch out the unwary noob.
Last edited:
Somehow missed this post. If you are into a more DIY spirit I can speak to this one - I have built (even designed PCBs for) the simple version of the VSSA. This is a little gem but you'd be pushing things pretty hard to hit an honest 100W average power, but you likely don't really need that much power.
If you need something that easy to source parts, you can check here AX14
at least almost the part available near here 🙂
If you want very simple but very wonderful sound, you can try this 6 transistor's magic PeeCeeBee
it not so big some people here at my place thought it was a very big amp, they never believe it is only 6 transistor inside 😀
at least almost the part available near here 🙂
If you want very simple but very wonderful sound, you can try this 6 transistor's magic PeeCeeBee
it not so big some people here at my place thought it was a very big amp, they never believe it is only 6 transistor inside 😀
So, I need a 35-0-35 5A and a new PSU board, right ?
The problem is that I can't make international purchases coz my current debit card doesn't allow it. I need to make a certain amount of transaction before they give their "platinum" cards which have all the features.
yup😱
I heard a lot about the TDA 7293 here.
Is there any tested designs based on it here ?
Our local electronics store have a pcb making service, so I think a pcb layout sketch or even a circuit diagram would do !
I live right next to an industrial estate and it can become very noisy at times. Thats why I'm very concerned about power.
Thanks for the recommendation 🙂
BTW, for the construction of the PeeCeeBee or any other amp, would there be any requirement to use "exotic" capacitors and metal film resistors ?
Also, how much power the PeeCeeBee can o/p ?
Last edited:
what is your speaker?..your speaker sensitivity also give a role to the loudness 🙂
in my work desk, i used a 30W @ 4Ohm amplifier w/ a 8Ohm speakers which makes the output power reduced about half.they're pretty loud enough to annoy my friend in the next work room 😛
50W to 100W difference only about 3dB 🙂
in my work desk, i used a 30W @ 4Ohm amplifier w/ a 8Ohm speakers which makes the output power reduced about half.they're pretty loud enough to annoy my friend in the next work room 😛
50W to 100W difference only about 3dB 🙂
The specs are:
Monitor Supreme 1000 | Downloads Home Audio | Downloads | magnat
The resistance value I measured using the multimeter is 5.2 Ohm btw.
BTW, this is the PSU I have
Wintek - Dual Rail PSU Module
- Status
- Not open for further replies.