Okay, so I got this amp for free, but it's not working. Open it up, and saw the two 10K pots are completely broken off. And also the protector LED- is broken off, but I can't seem to figure out where it should go. The + is soldered onto Q5, and that's where it loses me. How do I go about fixing this? Any help will be highly regarded! Thanx in advance.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nobody?????? Is there anybody who has the same amp, or know of someone that does? Please, look, if you don't want to help me it's fine, at least point me in some direction where there will actually be someone who does! Please!
Its obviously a specialised and uncommon amp. There are almost certainly other issues with it. Have you done basic cold checks on the output stages to get an idea of whether its blown up or not ?
Service manual
OK. Got a service manual with schematic from the internet. At least something to start with.
Alto Macro 830, 1400, 2400
madstayen, have you got a tester? Can you check the fuses and measure the voltages at the power rails for the beginning please?
OK. Got a service manual with schematic from the internet. At least something to start with.
Alto Macro 830, 1400, 2400
madstayen, have you got a tester? Can you check the fuses and measure the voltages at the power rails for the beginning please?
cold checks? Do you mean inspecting visually. Yes, I did. Everything looks good, it's just the pots, and prot LED.
I mean checking with a DVM on resistance and diode ranges that there are no shorted output transistors and that non of the low value emitter resistors on the outputs are open circuit. And a visual check too looking for burned or overheated components etc 🙂
Would that physically mean downloading the data sheet of each component (there are a couple of thousand) and then verifying the voltage/resistance/capacitance of each? Isn't it easier then to just buy a new amp???I mean checking with a DVM on resistance and diode ranges that there are no shorted output transistors and that non of the low value emitter resistors on the outputs are open circuit. And a visual check too looking for burned or overheated components etc
Oh yes, I did. Channel A is dead. Channel B works, but very softly. If I crank it all the way up, it is about as loud as my dual rec on 0.5 on a setting from 0-10.
aah, yes ofcourse. I will do so.No, Mooly means the power supply rectifier diodes and output transistors mainly... big ones...
Would mean downloading the data sheet of each component (there are a couple of thousand) and then verifying the voltage/resistance/capacitance of each? Isn't it easier then to just buy a new amp???
Now with the very greatest respect I think you are going to struggle with this as a project.
You don't need any data sheets, just two minutes to quickly check for shorts around the parts mentioned earlier. All the components such as resistors are identifiable in value either through the markings or their colour codes.
It no problem that you are not sure what to do... but anything more than the most basic of repairs might be a bit optimistic.
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