Hi Mike I would probably plug it in the wall outlet
and big speaker/speakers If You think about power consumption Im from Europe so 240V power outlet 12 amps would be enough power but in the US 110 28amps to many amps draw
If You think thats too much power I installed 2x2000w rms amplifiers in my car
Im looking if anyone have pcb layout and schematics of this amp?
I saw it on Aliexpress but they ask 85$ FOR PCB only OUCH
Thanks
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There are watt ratings and there are other watt ratings. For one thing some car amps use 1 ohm speakers because the rail voltage is so low, 12 VDC. For speakers that make music that can sound like wooden instruments sometimes, the rating is more often 4 ohms or 8 ohms. Then there is the time the 3000 watts can be produced.
I'd like to see your 2000 w RMS car amp run into some resistors for acouple of hours and measure the heat sink temperature.
By contrast, PA amps from Peavey, Crown, QSC, will deliver the advertised watts, usually into 4 ohms, all night and tomorrow, too.
This amp has enough output pairs to be interesting, but without schematics or heat sink design, no opinion. The heatsink and fan design has a lot to do with long term power rating.
I'd like to see your 2000 w RMS car amp run into some resistors for acouple of hours and measure the heat sink temperature.
By contrast, PA amps from Peavey, Crown, QSC, will deliver the advertised watts, usually into 4 ohms, all night and tomorrow, too.
This amp has enough output pairs to be interesting, but without schematics or heat sink design, no opinion. The heatsink and fan design has a lot to do with long term power rating.
amp
this is one of my car amps 2000rms class D mono 1ohm stable
uploded picture
Yes I would like to see schematics and pcb layout too of that chinese amplifier with 28 output transistors i think it would run cool on 1500rms at 8 ohm it has ic ne5532
If anyone has Cirucit and pcb layout please upload
thanks
this is one of my car amps 2000rms class D mono 1ohm stable
uploded picture
Yes I would like to see schematics and pcb layout too of that chinese amplifier with 28 output transistors i think it would run cool on 1500rms at 8 ohm it has ic ne5532
If anyone has Cirucit and pcb layout please upload
thanks
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You are wrong car amps use SMPS power supply which can make from 12volts +/- 100volts
Half of the amp is SMPS and the other Half is amplifier see on the picture
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I guess I understand what you saying indianajo, but the rail voltages in a car amp is Not 12V.
Many car amps are not rated in rms, but it's undeniable that good car amps are extremely powerful,
And many installations are so powerful that it's unhealthy to listen to them at full volume in the car.
Many car amps are not rated in rms, but it's undeniable that good car amps are extremely powerful,
And many installations are so powerful that it's unhealthy to listen to them at full volume in the car.
Well, switch mode and Class H amplification can be quite powerful in a small package, but don't use them around AM radio or magnetic phono cartridge and expect to hear anything, IMHO.
I stopped going to the store when car amps dominated the industry. The sounds in the demo rooms of Circuit City and best buy were so bad . . . . No wonder the singers these days use vodos to make their voices sound like beepers; a whole generation was conditioned to think that was the way to sound.
A class AB amp is a whole different ball game; it will use twice the power out of the supply that it puts out into the speaker. PA speakers that can handle 1500 w RMS tend to be multiple driver arrays that weigh a ton and take a forklift to move, or have liquid cooling or huge heat fins.
I stopped going to the store when car amps dominated the industry. The sounds in the demo rooms of Circuit City and best buy were so bad . . . . No wonder the singers these days use vodos to make their voices sound like beepers; a whole generation was conditioned to think that was the way to sound.
A class AB amp is a whole different ball game; it will use twice the power out of the supply that it puts out into the speaker. PA speakers that can handle 1500 w RMS tend to be multiple driver arrays that weigh a ton and take a forklift to move, or have liquid cooling or huge heat fins.
Are You shure did you hear of NEODYMIUM MAGNET
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-Looks like the PCB output bus is using (very few)through-holes to pass the
supposed 3000w..
-No rail bars for high current (below) - that is ONLY a 300/600W amp from
6 moons audio !
-The njw's would have a hard time with SOA at sufficient voltage to
produce 3K watts.
No local decoupling at OP pairs /weak driver stage.
-Another ill-designed ebay "firebomb" amp ...
OS
supposed 3000w..
-No rail bars for high current (below) - that is ONLY a 300/600W amp from
6 moons audio !
-The njw's would have a hard time with SOA at sufficient voltage to
produce 3K watts.
No local decoupling at OP pairs /weak driver stage.
-Another ill-designed ebay "firebomb" amp ...
OS
Attachments
A good topic to start a cold and rainy sunday with
230V mains fused by 16A (common standard in EU) gives you a theoretically max. of 3.680W. The boards shown are obviously a class A/B design, which means you would suck approx. 7kW out of your outlet, which definitely would blow the fuse. Even targeting half the power would need sophisticated cooling and a very proper slow-start to handle the inrush current of a monster toroid.
More than ~1500W RMS is practically not doable with a conventional class A/B design and standard mains. PA amps driving stadium-ready speakers are Class H (or D), are driven from 3-phase mains and they do have a very good controlled active cooling.
I'm not gonna discuss 2x2kW in the car now, at least not for RMS, since this would suck 300A+ out of your 12V battery, not considering any losses...
BR,
Holgi
230V mains fused by 16A (common standard in EU) gives you a theoretically max. of 3.680W. The boards shown are obviously a class A/B design, which means you would suck approx. 7kW out of your outlet, which definitely would blow the fuse. Even targeting half the power would need sophisticated cooling and a very proper slow-start to handle the inrush current of a monster toroid.
More than ~1500W RMS is practically not doable with a conventional class A/B design and standard mains. PA amps driving stadium-ready speakers are Class H (or D), are driven from 3-phase mains and they do have a very good controlled active cooling.
I'm not gonna discuss 2x2kW in the car now, at least not for RMS, since this would suck 300A+ out of your 12V battery, not considering any losses...
BR,
Holgi
Or get a new circuit installed from the consumer unit. That could give you 50A @ 230V. Two of those would give you a supply for each channel.
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