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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: London UK
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Can anyone explain why Accuphase (P100 Amp) connects neutral phase to power transformer via a rectifier (SEEMS TO BE) bridge with plus and minus out shorted and ac terminals across neutral and transformer bypassed by a 10 Ohm resistor? This raises the input impedance and creates a 0.8 V rms tophat shaped voltage drop across the mains terminals. Puzzles me!
I intend to take this out when I am able to understand why this arragement is used. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
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Here in the US, neutral is a term that refers to the grounded side of a 120VAC line. I believe that you're using 220VAC over there. 220V here is two lives and a ground (no 'neutral' per se), so I'm not clear as to what you're referring to when you say neutral. In other words, we may have a bit of a terminology problem here.
Is there any chance that you can post a schematic? Grey |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Fmak
I don't have a CLUE of what's going on with your Accuphase (that wouldn't be the first time). I need a schematic too. Grey, in Europe the tri-phase is three conductors at 380V so the phase-neutral is 380/sqrt(3)=220V. So it's the same deal over there like you have here, just a little different. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
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Fmak,
It looks like an earth loop breaker. You can find more about that circuit on Elliot Sound Product's web page:\ http://sound.au.com/earthing.htm (Figure 3) BTW, the whole site is packed with excellent stuff!! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
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fmak,
If what you've got is what's shown on the ESP site, I'd say it's safe to remove it. I'd say to bypass it first. If you develop a ground loop, then hook it back in. Otherwise, go for it. Incidentally, I'd be curious to know if you notice a sound quality difference with/without it... Grey |
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