|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification. |
|
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
|
Hello Guys
I've build a P68, the sub woofer amp form Rod Ellitot, i had purchased the pcb and it's verry easy to assemble but i have three problems: 1- very low output power, nowhere near the 250w, barely make my subwoofer move 2-the driver transistors (Q4,Q5,Q6) doesn't heat, this is a class A driver, they should heat even with no signal 3- the Quiescent Current, mesurring R16/R17 i get 200mv = 50ma, this should be 30=mv to 80mv =16ma i already checked all the board with a magnifier glass, replace Q1 to Q6 3 times, checked all the resistors, desoldered all output transistor and checked, re-done all the soldering i have no ideia what more to do, here the schematic I would apreciate any help Thanks Pedro ![]() (if it could help e have pictures of the amp here, just let me know if it will help and i post them) |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour, on the east coast
|
Hi
This schematic is copyright material, Pedro. It is convenient to have it here but you could link to it. BTW, do you have a multimeter and have you tested any voltages, such as that between the output terminals (DC offset), and between driver transistor bases on Q5-Q6? (bias voltage). These will narrow down the problem a little, if the parts are not showing any damage in your measurements so far. Just be sure to remove input and speaker leads before testing. All transistors should show a voltage of ~0.6 from B-E terminals when operating correctly. Is this so? Are the rail voltages present at the appropriate output transistor connections and is input ground and speaker ground returned to star ground at the power supply? Pics are always appreciated, if you show your wiring to the power supply and speaker too, so we have an indication of how you are checking things.
__________________
regards |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
|
Hi, Thanks for the reply
here the link with all the details 300/500W Subwoofer Power Amplifier The dc offset keeps below 50mv, oscilating by a few milivolts i will test all driver transistors and post pictures as soon as possible, all the rails have power +-110vdc just to advance things, the amp is not assembled in a enclosure yet: Transformer ---- bridge rectifier ------caps (2x4700uf per side) ----- amp the ground from speaker is conected to the capacitor ground, but for now its disconected, first i want to solve this 200mv voltage |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour, on the east coast
|
Q4 may only pass ~10 mA or dissipate around 1W. That's a TO220, it may not feel warm for a while, if on a heatsink.
The high bias current (R16,17) is set by V(D1+D2). Checking the voltage between the driver bases will show if much is wrong there.
__________________
regards |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour, on the east coast
|
More tests: Bias is one issue apparently, so you can short either D2, D3 or even both to half or zero bias and see what happens to the R16,17 voltage . This should also drop. similarly.
The low power level suggests something different, like problems around the Voltage Amplifier Q4, since the input stage is showing fair balance and operation with only 50 mV offset. Is D1 glowing correctly?
__________________
regards Last edited by Ian Finch; 3rd February 2013 at 11:41 AM. |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
|
You should measure R18-19-20-21 for bias.
Not R16-R17
__________________
lineup |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
|
For diagnostic purposes it would suit fine to check the current through R16-R17.
Also check the voltage drop over the two diodes D2 and D3. Those are the ones responsible for the Bias. Are they in contact, thermically, to the heatsink? If not, the bias will just run away. You are sure You have used the excact transistors wich is designed?
__________________
Sooner or later you end up with TANDBERG Last edited by TANDBERGEREN; 3rd February 2013 at 02:39 PM. |
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
|
Here the tests:
Q5 base - Q6 base = 1.32v Emiter - Base (Q9,Q10,Q11,Q12) = 195mv (i think we have something here) Emiter - Base Q4 = 595mv Q5 = 476mv Q6 = 443mv Q7 = 565mv Q8 = 570mv Q1,Q2 and Q3 get just warm Shorting one of the two diodes and i get 5mv between R16/R17 No messurement on R18-R21, i think its to low for my multimeter D1 is lighting up TANDBERGEREN : the drop between the diodes is ok, i'm thinking here, my heatsink for the drivers is to big? becouse of that the diodes doesn't heat up and no bias is ajusted? For pre driver i'm using BC546, for driver MJE340/MJE350, and output MJL4281/4302 Thanks here the pictures: ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
|
Yoiu should dismantle the extra heatsink on the drivers.
Thats for sure. I was curious on what voltage drop there is over each diode. The voltage over R16/R17 should be at least 550mV. It seems as if the voltage drop over the diodes are too low. Predriver is BC546? Eh, I think You got it wrong. Q4 is the predriver. Q5,Q6, Q7 and Q8 makes the drivers. This is a bit special type of connection alowwing the temperature compensation be made at the first driver pair, Q5 and Q6. and by this removing the need for sensin directly to the output transistors: Q9.Q12 Q1, Q2 and Q3 should be the MPSA42, not BC546. There is very different characteristics. I guess the Q7 and Q8 is mounted on the main heatsink? Q3 is the constant current source for the differential input transistors Q1 and Q2 Could You check the voltage between Collector and emitter of the Q1 and Q2?
__________________
Sooner or later you end up with TANDBERG Last edited by TANDBERGEREN; 3rd February 2013 at 03:34 PM. |
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
|
By the way.
You could check the voltage over R7 The voltage drop over R5 and R6 should be approximately the double of that. The led shall illuminate, but remember: a standard green led must be used. The voltage over it is probably around 1,8V
__________________
Sooner or later you end up with TANDBERG |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| esp P68 mods | lance06 | Solid State | 3 | 24th August 2010 01:12 PM |
| C1 for the ESP P68 | leander | Solid State | 6 | 8th November 2005 06:14 AM |
| ESP p68 subwoofer amp FS | jeff2747 | Swap Meet | 0 | 12th January 2005 07:09 AM |
| ESP P68 and P3A | kinser | Solid State | 2 | 3rd December 2004 01:22 AM |
| Help please Sub Amp P68 from ESP | Greg F | Chip Amps | 3 | 13th October 2004 12:11 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |