i have a couple of old power supplies that are begging to be turned into amplifiers.
this transformer is huge....
i have 2 of these that i got for free, one works, one does not. i have a lab grade and a couple of power supplies that have twice the current output of these so i dont need them at all. i dont know if i can use that transformer or not, but at the very least i have 2 perfect chassis that would be ideal to build a couple of 1000 watt mono blocks to run subwoofers with.
any ideas on what i can actually use out of this other than the case?
this transformer is huge....
i have 2 of these that i got for free, one works, one does not. i have a lab grade and a couple of power supplies that have twice the current output of these so i dont need them at all. i dont know if i can use that transformer or not, but at the very least i have 2 perfect chassis that would be ideal to build a couple of 1000 watt mono blocks to run subwoofers with.
any ideas on what i can actually use out of this other than the case?
1000W is unlikely. 100W more practical.
Transformer, depends on the secondary windings available. Only one large cap which is a shame as you really need two for a symmetric power supply. Bridge rectifiers could be used.
Going by the meters, its high current but relatively low voltage. The secondaries seem to confirm that. I doubt the transformer would be quiet.
Transformer, depends on the secondary windings available. Only one large cap which is a shame as you really need two for a symmetric power supply. Bridge rectifiers could be used.
Going by the meters, its high current but relatively low voltage. The secondaries seem to confirm that. I doubt the transformer would be quiet.
Would guess it's a 40VAC secondary on the transformer.
As he seems to have more than one, he should be able to get around 55V rails
if he mount their secondaries in series.
Should be a bit more than 100W.
Benefit: High-current transformers
possible downside: Probably humming transformers.
But there is a cure for the most.
Cabinets? Would be quite a bit difficult to get both transformers and suitable electronics in just one, but what about using the one as PSU and build the electronics alone in the other? Heavu-duty connectors are available. 55V 15A is within reach for a lot of them.
GO FOR IT
As he seems to have more than one, he should be able to get around 55V rails
if he mount their secondaries in series.
Should be a bit more than 100W.
Benefit: High-current transformers
possible downside: Probably humming transformers.
But there is a cure for the most.
Cabinets? Would be quite a bit difficult to get both transformers and suitable electronics in just one, but what about using the one as PSU and build the electronics alone in the other? Heavu-duty connectors are available. 55V 15A is within reach for a lot of them.
GO FOR IT
hmm, i saw a couple threads on here about transformers that were of similar size, i was hoping this one would be similar. i basically just had these laying around and was hoping i could use parts out of them.
i dont really have much experience building amps and such- my background is in car audio as an installer for 15 years. i have made several circuit boards for non audio related projects so i know i can build an amp, i just need a direction to go in. i understand what you're saying about the cabinets after looking at the prefab cabinets offered on the DIY store, those things are huge. i really do want to build a 1000w RMS into 8 ohms mono block, any suggestions for plans?
i dont really have much experience building amps and such- my background is in car audio as an installer for 15 years. i have made several circuit boards for non audio related projects so i know i can build an amp, i just need a direction to go in. i understand what you're saying about the cabinets after looking at the prefab cabinets offered on the DIY store, those things are huge. i really do want to build a 1000w RMS into 8 ohms mono block, any suggestions for plans?
These are apparently fixed, nominal 12V regulated supplies. I can't see that 40VAC windings would be necessary.
Perhaps only a single 15-18VAC high current winding is available. See the yellow sleeved wires feeding the rectifiers.
The white leads would only power the regulator circuit.
I don't see much useful there apart from a case & heatsink suiting a 100W or so in class AB as suggested.
Perhaps class D suits there if you want to move mountains but then, plate amps are are so cheap and easy for subs.
Perhaps only a single 15-18VAC high current winding is available. See the yellow sleeved wires feeding the rectifiers.
The white leads would only power the regulator circuit.
I don't see much useful there apart from a case & heatsink suiting a 100W or so in class AB as suggested.
Perhaps class D suits there if you want to move mountains but then, plate amps are are so cheap and easy for subs.
Also, forget this 1000W thing. There are *no car amps* that output 1000W RMS despite any manufacturers claims. It is simply not possible from a car battery/alternator.
There is only one application that needs this sort of power, and that is sound reinforcement at concerts. Those amps are usually class G/H or class D and have to run from high-current power outlets - not your typical 13A wall socket. They are large, typically 19" rack mount gear, and require forced air cooling.
For domestic use, with a good pair of speakers, 100W RMS into 8 ohms will be more than enough to have your windows rattling and your floor vibrating
There is only one application that needs this sort of power, and that is sound reinforcement at concerts. Those amps are usually class G/H or class D and have to run from high-current power outlets - not your typical 13A wall socket. They are large, typically 19" rack mount gear, and require forced air cooling.
For domestic use, with a good pair of speakers, 100W RMS into 8 ohms will be more than enough to have your windows rattling and your floor vibrating
As shown, don't think you can use them for much more than car battery chargers or anodizing/electroplating baths.
Voltage too low for anything else.
15V linearly regulated means around 20V DC raw, 25 VDC tops.
Now, *if* you dare to rewind those transformers, you'd have iron for a 400W class amp or thereabouts.
Usually you can pay part of your new copper with the old one, so it does not go to waste.
FWIW I'm doing that now, repairing a 450W powered mixer with a nicked secondary, a drill bit tip went through it (don't ask)
Or sell them for a good price to VHF rig guys, they *love* 13.8V 40A PSUs for their base rigs, and buy whatever you need with the cash.
Voltage too low for anything else.
15V linearly regulated means around 20V DC raw, 25 VDC tops.
Now, *if* you dare to rewind those transformers, you'd have iron for a 400W class amp or thereabouts.
Usually you can pay part of your new copper with the old one, so it does not go to waste.
FWIW I'm doing that now, repairing a 450W powered mixer with a nicked secondary, a drill bit tip went through it (don't ask
)Or sell them for a good price to VHF rig guys, they *love* 13.8V 40A PSUs for their base rigs, and buy whatever you need with the cash.
i beg to differ sir, as i have directly measured many of the large car audio amps that i have installed over the years at well over 1000 watts using an rms multimeter. some have put out as much as 4500 watts RMS and the most powerfull amp i have ever tested pushed out over 14,000 watts rms. again, these were direct measurements under load. while it may be true that 99% of cars in the UK have super small low output alternators and small batteries to match doesnt by any means make such output levels impossible. theres a world of difference between a car with an 80 amp alternator with a luch pail sized battery and one that has a 250 amp alternator and 2 very large batteries.
TANDBERGEREN- im game for a trade, pm me.
Do Your math crustyshadow.
14V 250A How much can You draw out of such powersupply? 3500W
With the very best SMPS and class D-amplifiers You loose around 30% of that power.
The rest is for "sound". But this only in theory.
I havent seen any amp with more than 1000W RMS contionous output made for car.
Please no "PMPO" please.
14V 250A How much can You draw out of such powersupply? 3500W
With the very best SMPS and class D-amplifiers You loose around 30% of that power.
The rest is for "sound". But this only in theory.
I havent seen any amp with more than 1000W RMS contionous output made for car.
Please no "PMPO" please.
Actually the best SMPS and class D amps will run at near 90% overall efficiency at maximum power, but THAT will not be cheap, certainly not in the usual price bracket even for higher end car amps.
I have to concur re output power. Getting into the kW region already puts one in a scenario where resistive losses in the 12V wiring loom become rather scary (in terms of fire hazard!) unless one uses truly thock wires and certainly not the usual hardware to provide the contact joints.
I have also found that most car audio enthusiasts don't understand the concept of a logarithmic scale (i.e. dB)
We are hearing from an experienced auto audio installer from a Truck City. I'd expect to see monster uber-amplifiers and
anything automotive to be as big as possible there in custom autos, pick-up trucks and big rigs. We may actually be
looking at the unspecified electrics of modified, custom vehicles or restorations.
I'm suggesting that there is likely more to the power available in special vehicles such as I see prowling the streets and
thumping away like cavemen to impress the girls. The alternators in these local V8 dinosaurs are awesome; even 24V
truck systems are used to raise the system capabilities. They are sure not standard cars, autos or even amplifiers.
If you watch TV, you may have seen some years ago that Mythbusters demo'd a 10kW system powered by a large
pick-up truck with an enormous alternator that required removal of the hood. The speaker array was towed IIRC but the
load at full power required the truck to stop and rev the engine at medium rpm to maintain enough power without stalling.
anything automotive to be as big as possible there in custom autos, pick-up trucks and big rigs. We may actually be
looking at the unspecified electrics of modified, custom vehicles or restorations.
I'm suggesting that there is likely more to the power available in special vehicles such as I see prowling the streets and
thumping away like cavemen to impress the girls. The alternators in these local V8 dinosaurs are awesome; even 24V
truck systems are used to raise the system capabilities. They are sure not standard cars, autos or even amplifiers.
If you watch TV, you may have seen some years ago that Mythbusters demo'd a 10kW system powered by a large
pick-up truck with an enormous alternator that required removal of the hood. The speaker array was towed IIRC but the
load at full power required the truck to stop and rev the engine at medium rpm to maintain enough power without stalling.
Well, if you have to resort to "Mythbusters" to prove a point ...... based on an impossible "car" , an impossible alternator and an impossible "in car" speaker system, yes, under all those conditions a 10Kw car amp is "possible" .
By the same token, you can stop a 68 Ton Abrams Tank with a wimpy .22 bullet.
All it takes is to previously drill a 1" hole through the armor, pointing straight at the driver's head.
*Anything* can be "proven" , if you twist the test far enough
Well, if you have to resort to "Mythbusters" to prove a point ...... based on an impossible "car" , an impossible alternator and an impossible "in car" speaker system, yes, under all those conditions a 10Kw car amp is "possible" .
By the same token, you can stop a 68 Ton Abrams Tank with a wimpy .22 bullet.
All it takes is to previously drill a 1" hole through the armor, pointing straight at the driver's head.
*Anything* can be "proven" , if you twist the test far enough
EDIT: dear Ian, I'm not going against your last post, far from it.
I just wanted to blow that "bigger than life" example even more out of proportion, in a "reductio ad absurdum", otherwise some knucklehead in some other Forum will happily quote your example as "proof" that a regular 12V battery powered amp, mounted in a regular car *can* put out that much power .... which clearly is not the case.
Actually the best SMPS and class D amps will run at near 90% overall efficiency at maximum power, but THAT will not be cheap, certainly not in the usual price bracket even for higher end car amps.
I have to concur re output power. Getting into the kW region already puts one in a scenario where resistive losses in the 12V wiring loom become rather scary (in terms of fire hazard!) unless one uses truly thock wires and certainly not the usual hardware to provide the contact joints.
I have also found that most car audio enthusiasts don't understand the concept of a logarithmic scale (i.e. dB)
you cant possibly be suggesting that people are connecting these gigantic amps to the stock wiring? thats seriously comical if that is what is being suggested. most 1kw amps have 1/0 ( about the diameter of your thumb)power and ground input terminals. as an example the phoenix gold "The One" 12kw amp has three 1/0 power and ground terminal blocks.
ive never used a resistor bank to test output under load- always connected and playing into subwoofers.
i would love to see one of you nay-sayers tell one of the engineers from companies that thier amps cant put out 1000w or more. that would be hilarious to watch.
tell you guys what, next time im at my best freinds house i'll hook up a DVOM and take a vid of the thing putting out 1000w under real world load and post it to youtube.
I suggest something even more hilarious, having one of those guys *proving* that it can be done
By the way, what happened to the 4500W and 14000 W amps you bragged about only 1 day ago?
Now we are downgrading to 1000W?
Stick to what you said or
Close but no cigar.
YOU bragged about 4500W and 14000W
, now you prove it.- Status
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