You should get one of these if you hate soldering,
RadioShack® Electronic Sensors Lab - RadioShack.com
Electronics Learning Lab - RadioShack.com
I am sure that they may have the very same circuit and parts of the amplifier that you are wanting to build part of one of the lessons.
I know the one I had did when I first started learning electronics.
But that was before ProtoBoards even existed !! He,he,he,he
I do every thing on a ProtoBoards before I make a finished soldered up version.
You can just get the protoboards too but having a book and all of the extra stuff will save you loads of time and headaches!!!
RadioShack Solderless Breadboard w/ 70 Jumper Wires : Breadboards | RadioShack.com
RadioShack 6 Modular IC Breadboard Socket : Breadboard Sockets | RadioShack.com
Modular IC Breadboard Socket : Breadboard Sockets | RadioShack.com
But ultimately you will need to learn how to solder eventually as that just take lots of practice.
I designed my whole HV power supply on ProtoBoards and then I made PCB's and mounted it in a box.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...t-panel-angles-8-vs-9-panels.html#post2170344
and here it is all done,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...tor-insulation-mylar-coating.html#post2772703
Jer
RadioShack® Electronic Sensors Lab - RadioShack.com
Electronics Learning Lab - RadioShack.com
I am sure that they may have the very same circuit and parts of the amplifier that you are wanting to build part of one of the lessons.
I know the one I had did when I first started learning electronics.
But that was before ProtoBoards even existed !! He,he,he,he
I do every thing on a ProtoBoards before I make a finished soldered up version.
You can just get the protoboards too but having a book and all of the extra stuff will save you loads of time and headaches!!!
RadioShack Solderless Breadboard w/ 70 Jumper Wires : Breadboards | RadioShack.com
RadioShack 6 Modular IC Breadboard Socket : Breadboard Sockets | RadioShack.com
Modular IC Breadboard Socket : Breadboard Sockets | RadioShack.com
But ultimately you will need to learn how to solder eventually as that just take lots of practice.
I designed my whole HV power supply on ProtoBoards and then I made PCB's and mounted it in a box.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...t-panel-angles-8-vs-9-panels.html#post2170344
and here it is all done,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...tor-insulation-mylar-coating.html#post2772703
Jer
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jeeze that's a crapload of money! I only have 4 dollars to spend on buying stuff... and i can only afford little bits and pieces from the shelf.. but i'll take a look at it
And i'm really looking to get some solar panals! I want a solar panel to run some of my little things like a small audio amplifier since the lighting in my house is always bright from the overhead lights
And i'm really looking to get some solar panals! I want a solar panel to run some of my little things like a small audio amplifier since the lighting in my house is always bright from the overhead lights
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Ya, Protoboard's aren't exactly cheap but they are affordable and they are re-usable.
Of the two that you see in my pictures, one of them is about 30 years old and I had bought the newer one a couple of years ago when it was on sale.
I had a third one but I can't find it and thus the reason that I had to buy another one.
Solar power is fun to work with.
However it is still quite costly for just a small setup.
The cost for a large panel is about $.90 per watt for a 250watt panel.
The smaller hobbyist panels are still around $2 to $3 or more per watt.
The bigger they are the cheaper they are per watt.
jer
Of the two that you see in my pictures, one of them is about 30 years old and I had bought the newer one a couple of years ago when it was on sale.
I had a third one but I can't find it and thus the reason that I had to buy another one.
Solar power is fun to work with.
However it is still quite costly for just a small setup.
The cost for a large panel is about $.90 per watt for a 250watt panel.
The smaller hobbyist panels are still around $2 to $3 or more per watt.
The bigger they are the cheaper they are per watt.
jer
How to bridge two LA4225 datasheet(3/3 Pages) SANYO | Monolithic Linear IC Audio Output for TV application 5W Monaural Power Amplifier together so I get more power?
Or how do I set them up to use for stereo two channel sound?
I have 6,200uF for the capacitors output for the speakers
And 8.7uF for the input with a filter at the input to filter out super high frequencys over 50khz.
If I make two of these how would I bridge them? Or use them for stereo output? each individually going to a different speaker and one for the left channel and one for the right channel.
And if possible how would I bridge them with a small subwoofer?
Or is this a bad idea waiting to happen... because I don't want to melt anything
Or how do I set them up to use for stereo two channel sound?
I have 6,200uF for the capacitors output for the speakers
And 8.7uF for the input with a filter at the input to filter out super high frequencys over 50khz.
If I make two of these how would I bridge them? Or use them for stereo output? each individually going to a different speaker and one for the left channel and one for the right channel.
And if possible how would I bridge them with a small subwoofer?
Or is this a bad idea waiting to happen... because I don't want to melt anything
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Have you learned some basic theory yet? There are several ways to 'more power'. As you have alluded to, one can operate at a higher voltage. One can also operate at higher current, generally by reducing the impedance the amplifier drives. Bridging is effectively the same as using a higher supply voltage, without actually raising the operating supply voltages.
You should only need two amplifier chips. The key here is to configure one to operate in non-inverting mode, and the other in inverting mode at the same value of gain. The speaker is then connected to the output pins of each amplifier chip, + to the non-inverting amp and the - to the inverting amp. Bridging theoretically behaves like doubling the supply voltage, so neglecting losses would theoretically quadruple the power since power rises with the square of voltage given the same load impedance.
In reality there are losses to consider, but doubling output power isn't unreasonable. Bear in mind that our hearing is not linear with respect to electrical power and perceived loudness. A doubling of power is only just noticeable and an effective doubling of loudness takes about ten times the electrical power.
Edit: I looked at the data sheet to see that the gain and mode of operation are internally fixed with these chips. It is still possible to bridge them but will require at least one additional stage - an inverting unity gain buffer to feed the second chip since there is no direct access to both inputs.
You should only need two amplifier chips. The key here is to configure one to operate in non-inverting mode, and the other in inverting mode at the same value of gain. The speaker is then connected to the output pins of each amplifier chip, + to the non-inverting amp and the - to the inverting amp. Bridging theoretically behaves like doubling the supply voltage, so neglecting losses would theoretically quadruple the power since power rises with the square of voltage given the same load impedance.
In reality there are losses to consider, but doubling output power isn't unreasonable. Bear in mind that our hearing is not linear with respect to electrical power and perceived loudness. A doubling of power is only just noticeable and an effective doubling of loudness takes about ten times the electrical power.
Edit: I looked at the data sheet to see that the gain and mode of operation are internally fixed with these chips. It is still possible to bridge them but will require at least one additional stage - an inverting unity gain buffer to feed the second chip since there is no direct access to both inputs.
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