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Old 27th September 2012, 12:02 AM   #21
RS232 is offline RS232  United Kingdom
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Ups
Simple fix, just remove (cut ) the burned track and solder a wire from one end to the other.
You can remove a bit of varnish or solder strait on the pad.
Check if any component connected to that track is burned.
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Old 27th September 2012, 01:06 AM   #22
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I was thinking of a conductive pen:
Conductive Pen : PCB Pens : Maplin Electronics

but i will try your idea.

What kind of cable?Size mm?
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Old 27th September 2012, 01:13 AM   #23
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Any wire with roughly or more area than the trace will be fine. Something in the range of 1mm ought to do the trick. Do look for burned components, and don't assume that the filter caps are that long for the world your unit is an early one. I owned one in the early 1980s and my recollection is that it already had TO-220 transistors in the output stage. I'd replace the supply caps as a minimum - look for date codes on the large caps as that may give you a clue as to how old this unit actually is.
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Old 27th September 2012, 04:57 AM   #24
Tajzmaj is offline Tajzmaj  Slovenia
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In case that there is something else destroyed and if you won't be able to trace what's wrong I live in London, Camden and you are welcome...
Cheers
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Old 27th September 2012, 11:40 AM   #25
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Simple repair, i just soldered a piece of cable for the broken trace.
The amplifier is working again, woohoo.
After almost an hour of playing music everything is ok, except that one capacitor's temp is around 40-43 degrees when it's around 22-33 in all the others.
Do you suggest anything else to check before i put back the covers?
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Old 27th September 2012, 01:57 PM   #26
RS232 is offline RS232  United Kingdom
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Well done, but as recommended replace the 2 big capacitors in the power supply.
I'm replacing all capacitors in my 3020i the Elite capacitors are most likely well past their use by date (Inspection stamp says 76/10/29) so my amp was build in 1976 so is only 36 years old.
Could you please update you profile...

Last edited by RS232; 27th September 2012 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 27th September 2012, 02:17 PM   #27
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Which speakers do you drive with your 3020i?
I'm very satisfied with my Mission 701 but i want to try some vintage bookselves with this amp.
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Old 27th September 2012, 03:23 PM   #28
RS232 is offline RS232  United Kingdom
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Right now is the amp is driving a set of Aurum Cantus leisure 5SE but I have a set of Polk Audio Ti100 that I was using before and going to put on ebay.
Look at the efficiency of the speaker the higher the better (89/90db is easy to get)
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Old 29th September 2012, 01:53 PM   #29
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I guess i forgot to say thank you guys.

Do you have any idea for my initial problem i had bwith the amp?
When it is powered on there is a zzzzzzz noise (quite though) and i strogly believe it's from the power supply.

Anyone?
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Old 29th September 2012, 03:12 PM   #30
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As you first said that this was mechanical buzz, not through the speakers, there are only a few options. The usual suspect is the transformer, where ageing, loose laminations start to rattle in concert with the AC supply.

To be more certain where the buzz comes from, you can use an insulated screwdriver as a rough stethoscope, like old-time motor mechanics do to check out various motor ills. Obviously, you take great care with what you are probing and not let slip from the point of mechanical contact. To transfer sound effectively, the surface needs to be a hard, substantial object like the transformer, definitely not components or electrical circuits. IIRC, 3020 transformers varied a little in having assembly bolts which can be tightened somewhat and this can help but not really eliminate mechanical buzz.

In any case, every 3020 owner arriving here (and there are so many) gets advised to replace the main electrolytic capacitors, pointed out earlier. It doesn't matter whether they look brand new on the outside because after 20+ years they won't be, on the inside. They are wet cell devices like batteries and can deteriorate by evaporation of the electrolyte alone. Having checked the date code and replaced these, it sometimes happens that buzzes disappear too. You can buy suitable replacements from CPC or any decent supplier of electronic components.
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