I can't verify part numbers without a very detailed old database but most Japanese components are generic. Meters differ in customising mainly in their backcard artwork, OA dimensions and bulb tinting but many are quite similar, even down to a fairly standard 250 or 400uA sensitivity. It's possible that you could replace both with old generic parts that are now back in the "bling" components market. The backcards may even be transferable to a similar sized pair of these, from the originals.
I think you are faced with the same problem of aged bulbs with any used replacement part. Assuming you can prise the clear cover from the rear housing, it should not be difficult to replace the bulb (some cases are held together only with adhesive tape) or, as a necessary measure with coloured lighting, substitute a group of suitable diffuse light LEDs - rectify the 14 or so volts AC and limit current with an appropriate resistor.
It's tedious fitting LEDs, though I have had to fit them several times when the special, miniature festoon bulb type was unobtanium. If you want matched meters, then it's likely you'll have to do the matching and go through these restoration hoops whether you get a similar replacement type or not.
I think you are faced with the same problem of aged bulbs with any used replacement part. Assuming you can prise the clear cover from the rear housing, it should not be difficult to replace the bulb (some cases are held together only with adhesive tape) or, as a necessary measure with coloured lighting, substitute a group of suitable diffuse light LEDs - rectify the 14 or so volts AC and limit current with an appropriate resistor.
It's tedious fitting LEDs, though I have had to fit them several times when the special, miniature festoon bulb type was unobtanium. If you want matched meters, then it's likely you'll have to do the matching and go through these restoration hoops whether you get a similar replacement type or not.
Thanks Ian, according to the tech guy someone, in the past, has tried to repair the right hand meter and completely ruined it seemingly losing a spring and other bits where the needle connects to the meter.
Not too sure at this moment whether both meters light up but I think that the repair to the circuit board might have restored power to both of the meters.
I'll just have to wait until Iget the amp back and take it from there but in the meantime I'll keep an eye open on e-bay for those part numbers or is there anywhere else that sells these sorts of parts?
BTW, I own the matching tuner and the VU meters in that look different from the ones in the amp, the meter housings I mean. I know that the backcards are different because of the tuner?amp thing.
Thanks
Tony
Hi twoton2 , from appearance meters look exactly like used in higher twin brother TA-F7B, in here the meter control circuit have one transistor amplifier ,which is missing in F6B , meters in mine having number 1-520 281-00, also in both TA-F4 and TA-F5 meters are looking similar,
good luck with repair
good luck with repair
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BTW, guys the amp has been repaired, I'm just waiting on the hi-fi guy getting back to me with the weight and the dimensions of the packing box in which the amp is being transported, in order that I can arrange collection and delivery.
I have the matching Stereo Tuner, the ST-A6B, which I going to send down to him for a service and alignment and check.
The tuner works fine but it is over thirty years old now so I thought it would be good to have it looked at by someone who knows what he's doing with these old units.
This is what was done with the Sony amp
"I have had some success with the Sony.
It is now working correctly. The problem being a broken circuit board which required rebuilding"
&
"Serviced the PSU just required replacement of a few caps. New caps being top notch, long life, 105degree low impedance types from Nichicon and Panasonic"
I have the matching Stereo Tuner, the ST-A6B, which I going to send down to him for a service and alignment and check.
The tuner works fine but it is over thirty years old now so I thought it would be good to have it looked at by someone who knows what he's doing with these old units.
This is what was done with the Sony amp
"I have had some success with the Sony.
It is now working correctly. The problem being a broken circuit board which required rebuilding"
&
"Serviced the PSU just required replacement of a few caps. New caps being top notch, long life, 105degree low impedance types from Nichicon and Panasonic"
Thanks johnm, the plan is to use it and sell my current Croft micro basic pre (can't stand the dual volume pots) and Sugden A21P.
I bought my son a Sony TA-FA3ES for fifty quid about two years and if the repaired amp is anywhere near as good as that one then I'll be delighted
I'll post up some photos of the sideinside and out when I get it back.
Tony
I bought my son a Sony TA-FA3ES for fifty quid about two years and if the repaired amp is anywhere near as good as that one then I'll be delighted
I'll post up some photos of the sideinside and out when I get it back.
Tony
Hi guys, I got the amp back on Thursday and frankly it is astonishing, I'm actually amazed at how good this amp is and I'm comparing it to a Sugden A21A and an A21P with a Croft Basic pre-amp, the phono version.
Initially I was a bit disappointed with the phono amp in the Sony as it was no where near as good as the Croft's phono stage but I bought the user manual last night on PDF and realised that the amp's phono 2 stage is a MC phono stage which is more suitable to my cart which is a Denon DL 110 low output MC cart.
This second phono stage is at least as good as the Croft IMO but I'll have to do some more listening to make a decent comparison between the two.
I've taken photos of the repair and of the amp so I'll post these up later on.
Thanks
Tony
BTW, anyone who wants a copy of the user manual pm me, it's in English, German & French.
Initially I was a bit disappointed with the phono amp in the Sony as it was no where near as good as the Croft's phono stage but I bought the user manual last night on PDF and realised that the amp's phono 2 stage is a MC phono stage which is more suitable to my cart which is a Denon DL 110 low output MC cart.
This second phono stage is at least as good as the Croft IMO but I'll have to do some more listening to make a decent comparison between the two.
I've taken photos of the repair and of the amp so I'll post these up later on.
Thanks
Tony
BTW, anyone who wants a copy of the user manual pm me, it's in English, German & French.
The phono stage is superb - easily bettered my Trichord Dino +... At least when it was working it did! Still on the lookout for a donor amp so I can get hold of the original output transistors, and a spare PLPS.
Will enjoy seeing the photos of your amps road to recovery!
Cheers,
John.
P.S. It contains a damn good headphone stage too. Missing mine after all this talk
Hi John, listening to the amp right now and loving it but there are a couple of smallish issues one of which is the on/off switch sticking. I have to pull it out towards me to operate it but it has been behaving itself today. Don't suppose you know the part number or would a squirt of contact cleaner help?
BTW, do you know if the lamps in the VU meters, which look like fuses, are easily sourced and replaced?
PS, I'll get the photos up tomorrow sometime, hopefully.
BTW, do you know if the lamps in the VU meters, which look like fuses, are easily sourced and replaced?
PS, I'll get the photos up tomorrow sometime, hopefully.
Afraid I haven't got any leads on the lamps, but you're idea to purchase a donar amp to share needed parts is a good 'un
As for the switch, I'd just get some switch cleaner from:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brand-Servi...E1D0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351507453&sr=8-1
I believe the old stuff wasn't suitable if it came into contact with plastic, but this one is safe. You'd have to take the lid off and get the nozzle right into the switch. If the switch is dodgy, another reason to get a donor amp I guess.
John.
Afraid I haven't got any leads on the lamps, but you're idea to purchase a donar amp to share needed parts is a good 'un
As for the switch, I'd just get some switch cleaner from:
Brand New Servisol Super 10 Professional DJ Fader and: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
I believe the old stuff wasn't suitable if it came into contact with plastic, but this one is safe. You'd have to take the lid off and get the nozzle right into the switch. If the switch is dodgy, another reason to get a donor amp I guess.
John.
PM sent John and thanks for the tip re the cleaner, just ordered a tin
Anyone know if these are the VU meter lamps?
Thanks
Tony
Sony Lampen / lamps TA-2000 F ... CAS | eBay
Thanks
Tony
Sony Lampen / lamps TA-2000 F ... CAS | eBay
Well, I had to buy a TA-F6B too
Paid 80€ + 30€ shipping from Germany.
Thing is really smoked...I mean with cigarettes.
Only issue seller mentioned was the powersupply.
It had the small 10uF and 0.47uF caps gone quite bad...ESR was like over 10ohms on both. The 22 and 33uF high voltage caps were like 35 and 48uF, so quite aged too.
Anyway issue was that VU meter lamps were disconnected (wires cut) softstart resistors had been replaced with 0.47ohm (original 2.2ohm) and relay was molten, fuse blown et.c.
I replaced caps, relay and resistors.
I measured the VU meter lamps to be something like 27ohms each so I thought they were ok.
Now that I powered it up through a 400mA fuse and a rather fast turn of the variac knob (not sure if a variac is good to use, but at least it allowed a small fuse to be used)
softstart relay clicked and then speaker relay clicked.
I had 102V between + and -, yessss, just need to adjust it down a bit.
BUT the lamps do not light up.
I have shorted bulbs?
Because without the lamps the softstart relay should not click.
Anyway I'll carefully open up the meters and see what can be done.
Anybody have any advice on the lamps?
If not I will post here later, how I did it.
Be it LEDs or suitable bulbs
Paid 80€ + 30€ shipping from Germany.
Thing is really smoked...I mean with cigarettes.
Only issue seller mentioned was the powersupply.
It had the small 10uF and 0.47uF caps gone quite bad...ESR was like over 10ohms on both. The 22 and 33uF high voltage caps were like 35 and 48uF, so quite aged too.
Anyway issue was that VU meter lamps were disconnected (wires cut) softstart resistors had been replaced with 0.47ohm (original 2.2ohm) and relay was molten, fuse blown et.c.
I replaced caps, relay and resistors.
I measured the VU meter lamps to be something like 27ohms each so I thought they were ok.
Now that I powered it up through a 400mA fuse and a rather fast turn of the variac knob (not sure if a variac is good to use, but at least it allowed a small fuse to be used)
softstart relay clicked and then speaker relay clicked.
I had 102V between + and -, yessss, just need to adjust it down a bit.
BUT the lamps do not light up.
I have shorted bulbs?
Because without the lamps the softstart relay should not click.
Anyway I'll carefully open up the meters and see what can be done.
Anybody have any advice on the lamps?
If not I will post here later, how I did it.
Be it LEDs or suitable bulbs
Okay, opened up the meters.
Very easy 2 philips screws hold the bracket and meters are held together with tape.
Turns out the bulbs in the meters were not original.
They were for like 14 or 16V or so. So I'll replace them.
32mm seems like an ok length, but 6.3mm is just too fat.
I'll have to go with small bulbs with wires sticking out.
I did an ugly 30sec. calculation of what the bulbs could be. 4V 74mA each? Hmm...
I cannot find 4V so I'll try 6V and a resistor in parallel.
I'm sure relay will be ok with 22 or 23V
And the short was caused by the + part of the lamp seat touching the frame.
The guy who repaired this before me was a bit clumsy I think
Very easy 2 philips screws hold the bracket and meters are held together with tape.
Turns out the bulbs in the meters were not original.
They were for like 14 or 16V or so. So I'll replace them.
32mm seems like an ok length, but 6.3mm is just too fat.
I'll have to go with small bulbs with wires sticking out.
I did an ugly 30sec. calculation of what the bulbs could be. 4V 74mA each? Hmm...
I cannot find 4V so I'll try 6V and a resistor in parallel.
I'm sure relay will be ok with 22 or 23V
And the short was caused by the + part of the lamp seat touching the frame.
The guy who repaired this before me was a bit clumsy I think
Attachments
I ended up putting two 6V 40mA lamps + one 100ohm 3W resistor in parallel. The voltage over them is 5.8V and everything works fine.
I get awesome measurement results from the amp. All harmonics under -90dB!
But it also sounds quite clinical and not super warm.
Detail is good and power is reasonable...measured over 120W @ 1kHz 8ohm.
I get awesome measurement results from the amp. All harmonics under -90dB!
But it also sounds quite clinical and not super warm.
Detail is good and power is reasonable...measured over 120W @ 1kHz 8ohm.
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