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Old 28th October 2012, 09:40 PM   #31
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Hi John, listening to the amp right now and loving it but there are a couple of smallish issues one of which is the on/off switch sticking. I have to pull it out towards me to operate it but it has been behaving itself today. Don't suppose you know the part number or would a squirt of contact cleaner help?

BTW, do you know if the lamps in the VU meters, which look like fuses, are easily sourced and replaced?

PS, I'll get the photos up tomorrow sometime, hopefully.
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Old 29th October 2012, 09:47 AM   #32
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Hi John, just a thought but I need VU meters and a switch and you need transistors and a PLPS, are you up for sharing the cost of broken amp if we can find one?

Regards,

Tony
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Old 29th October 2012, 10:42 AM   #33
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twotone 2 View Post
Hi John, just a thought but I need VU meters and a switch and you need transistors and a PLPS, are you up for sharing the cost of broken amp if we can find one?

Regards,

Tony
Now that is a fantastic idea - good thinking! I'll PM you.....
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Old 29th October 2012, 10:46 AM   #34
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twotone 2 View Post
Hi John, listening to the amp right now and loving it but there are a couple of smallish issues one of which is the on/off switch sticking. I have to pull it out towards me to operate it but it has been behaving itself today. Don't suppose you know the part number or would a squirt of contact cleaner help?

BTW, do you know if the lamps in the VU meters, which look like fuses, are easily sourced and replaced?

PS, I'll get the photos up tomorrow sometime, hopefully.
Afraid I haven't got any leads on the lamps, but you're idea to purchase a donar amp to share needed parts is a good 'un

As for the switch, I'd just get some switch cleaner from:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brand-Servis...1507453&sr=8-1

I believe the old stuff wasn't suitable if it came into contact with plastic, but this one is safe. You'd have to take the lid off and get the nozzle right into the switch. If the switch is dodgy, another reason to get a donor amp I guess.

John.
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Old 29th October 2012, 02:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnm View Post
Afraid I haven't got any leads on the lamps, but you're idea to purchase a donar amp to share needed parts is a good 'un

As for the switch, I'd just get some switch cleaner from:

Brand New Servisol Super 10 Professional DJ Fader and: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

I believe the old stuff wasn't suitable if it came into contact with plastic, but this one is safe. You'd have to take the lid off and get the nozzle right into the switch. If the switch is dodgy, another reason to get a donor amp I guess.

John.
PM sent John and thanks for the tip re the cleaner, just ordered a tin
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Old 29th October 2012, 07:38 PM   #36
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Anyone know if these are the VU meter lamps?

Thanks

Tony

Sony Lampen / lamps TA-2000 F ... CAS | eBay
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Old 29th October 2012, 10:25 PM   #37
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Some photos for anyone interested guys.

Flickr: tonybhoy1's Photostream

Tony
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Old 15th July 2015, 07:14 AM   #38
jlithen is offline jlithen  Finland
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Well, I had to buy a TA-F6B too

Paid 80 + 30 shipping from Germany.

Thing is really smoked...I mean with cigarettes.
Only issue seller mentioned was the powersupply.
It had the small 10uF and 0.47uF caps gone quite bad...ESR was like over 10ohms on both. The 22 and 33uF high voltage caps were like 35 and 48uF, so quite aged too.

Anyway issue was that VU meter lamps were disconnected (wires cut) softstart resistors had been replaced with 0.47ohm (original 2.2ohm) and relay was molten, fuse blown et.c.

I replaced caps, relay and resistors.

I measured the VU meter lamps to be something like 27ohms each so I thought they were ok.

Now that I powered it up through a 400mA fuse and a rather fast turn of the variac knob (not sure if a variac is good to use, but at least it allowed a small fuse to be used)
softstart relay clicked and then speaker relay clicked.
I had 102V between + and -, yessss, just need to adjust it down a bit.

BUT the lamps do not light up.
I have shorted bulbs?
Because without the lamps the softstart relay should not click.

Anyway I'll carefully open up the meters and see what can be done.

Anybody have any advice on the lamps?

If not I will post here later, how I did it.
Be it LEDs or suitable bulbs
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Old 16th July 2015, 07:03 AM   #39
jlithen is offline jlithen  Finland
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Okay, opened up the meters.
Very easy 2 philips screws hold the bracket and meters are held together with tape.

Turns out the bulbs in the meters were not original.
They were for like 14 or 16V or so. So I'll replace them.
32mm seems like an ok length, but 6.3mm is just too fat.
I'll have to go with small bulbs with wires sticking out.

I did an ugly 30sec. calculation of what the bulbs could be. 4V 74mA each? Hmm...
I cannot find 4V so I'll try 6V and a resistor in parallel.
I'm sure relay will be ok with 22 or 23V

And the short was caused by the + part of the lamp seat touching the frame.
The guy who repaired this before me was a bit clumsy I think
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2015-07-15 20.41.15.jpg (400.3 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 2015-07-16 09.35.04.jpg (418.3 KB, 21 views)
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Old 23rd July 2015, 11:10 AM   #40
jlithen is offline jlithen  Finland
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I ended up putting two 6V 40mA lamps + one 100ohm 3W resistor in parallel. The voltage over them is 5.8V and everything works fine.

I get awesome measurement results from the amp. All harmonics under -90dB!
But it also sounds quite clinical and not super warm.
Detail is good and power is reasonable...measured over 120W @ 1kHz 8ohm.
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