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Old 23rd September 2012, 06:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnm View Post
Sorry to hear of your Ebay problems - hope it gets resolved to your satisfaction, and you at least get a partial or full refund.

This amp is fantastic, when working. Unfortunately mine has stopped working too. Quite gutting after all the effort detailed in that long thread. Can't find anything obviously wrong, but I'm sure it's something to do with that annoying PLPS supply. Incidentally it's VERY common on these amps to have the PLPS capacitors go south and take the amp down. Get your tech to replace all PSU caps with low esr types before doing anything else, though I'm sure if he knows his stuff that'll be the first thing he does. Often that'll solve the problems if everything else is ok, and before anything further was damaged.

Would be nice to come up with an alternative diy psu board that would fit into the same space, and still allow the amp to function to full spec. Those PLPS pcbs are not great quality, especially after all these years and the high temperatures within. Traces can become detached from the board.

Hope you get yours up and running - great design when working as it should.

John.
I John, sorry to read that your amp has gone down mate , I found your thread on Pinkfish.

I'm on PF (bought a load of vinyl from Tony L) and I'm on the Wam too, the tech who is going to be looking at the amp comes highly recommended on the Wam, believe he's in Surrey I could give you his details if you like?

BTW, do you know where the fuse is on the PLPS board?

Re the e-bay seller I'm just going to see how it goes with him. The amp is in amazing condition cosmetically, near mint I would say however it is clear that when you take the top off that's it's not been used for an awful long time. I suspect that the e-bay seller bought it cheap from somewhere and thought he was on a winner until he turned it on. Seems that it was working or at least the meters were working after a fashion but I think probably he tested it before sending it to me and it blew then.

Thanks for the VU part numbers.

Tony

PS, that thread of yours was epic, I spent last Sunday reading the entire 54 pages
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Old 24th September 2012, 12:24 AM   #12
jaycee is offline jaycee  United Kingdom
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johnm, sorry to hear your PLPS quit again. Does the amp still work with the linear supply you tried?

edit: I also forget, did you end up getting the vintage Sanken transistors for the switching section? I recall you trying BUT11A but there were problems...
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Old 25th September 2012, 12:00 PM   #13
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twotone 2 View Post
I John, sorry to read that your amp has gone down mate , I found your thread on Pinkfish.

I'm on PF (bought a load of vinyl from Tony L) and I'm on the Wam too, the tech who is going to be looking at the amp comes highly recommended on the Wam, believe he's in Surrey I could give you his details if you like?

BTW, do you know where the fuse is on the PLPS board?

Re the e-bay seller I'm just going to see how it goes with him. The amp is in amazing condition cosmetically, near mint I would say however it is clear that when you take the top off that's it's not been used for an awful long time. I suspect that the e-bay seller bought it cheap from somewhere and thought he was on a winner until he turned it on. Seems that it was working or at least the meters were working after a fashion but I think probably he tested it before sending it to me and it blew then.

Thanks for the VU part numbers.

Tony

PS, that thread of yours was epic, I spent last Sunday reading the entire 54 pages
Hi Tony.

There isn't a fuse on the PLPS board. The fuses are on the little PCB directly behind the mains input socket. Might be worth checking all those, plus the two wirewound resistors sitting either side of that thermal fuse. They're the components which will suddenly heat up if there's a fault, and they trigger the thermal fuse. The reason they will have heated up, I am sure will be traced to capacitors on the PLPS board. Virtually every thread/forum I have seen regarding faults on these amps have been due to leaking or dried out caps on this board. I'd not turn the amp on again until all those are replaced, and the tech has reset the PLPS voltage. You'll need to connect the PLPS via a grounding clip to the main chassis BTW when doing this. If your tech has the service manual (I'd check, just to make sure he really is doing things as they should be done!) he'll already know this.

Thanks for the offer of the techs details, but I cannot afford to get it fixed at present. It'll be cheaper for me to just buy another amp really, and get the parts I need from that one.

Haha yes it was/is an epic thread. I didn't do anything really was just following the sage instructions of Mooly, Jaycee et al. Extremely helpful folk!

Best of luck with the repair - keeping them crossed for you!

- John
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Old 25th September 2012, 12:06 PM   #14
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycee View Post
johnm, sorry to hear your PLPS quit again. Does the amp still work with the linear supply you tried?

edit: I also forget, did you end up getting the vintage Sanken transistors for the switching section? I recall you trying BUT11A but there were problems...
Hi there Jaycee!

No I never did alas. Haven't tried the linear supply either - I just don't have the energy at the moment (long story - blooming health!) to take it all apart yet again. I am 99.9% sure it's one of the replacement 2SC2023 transistors I installed on the PLPS board. The amp was beginning to 'whistle' randomly and that noise came from within the PLPS black aluminium enclosure.

I have my Gainclone, and also a pair of restored Quad IIs to use instead, but if I can purchase another TA-F6B amp and use the properly matched transistors from that, as well as the Hitachi 2SD675 / 2SB655 output transistors hopefully I can get the main amp board back to its stock resistor values in the output section and have it all working again.

- John

Last edited by johnm; 25th September 2012 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 25th September 2012, 04:49 PM   #15
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Hi guys, a bit of an update.

I've received a partial refund from the e-bay seller which I'm happy with.

I've paid what I believe to a fair price for a cosmetically mint faulty amp.

I would of course much rather have bought a working amp but not to be sadly.

Thanks to those of you who advised me on the e-bay case thing.

I'll update the thread when the amp is repaired.

Thanks

Last edited by twotone 2; 25th September 2012 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 25th September 2012, 04:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by johnm View Post
Hi Tony.

There isn't a fuse on the PLPS board. The fuses are on the little PCB directly behind the mains input socket. Might be worth checking all those, plus the two wirewound resistors sitting either side of that thermal fuse. They're the components which will suddenly heat up if there's a fault, and they trigger the thermal fuse. The reason they will have heated up, I am sure will be traced to capacitors on the PLPS board. Virtually every thread/forum I have seen regarding faults on these amps have been due to leaking or dried out caps on this board. I'd not turn the amp on again until all those are replaced, and the tech has reset the PLPS voltage. You'll need to connect the PLPS via a grounding clip to the main chassis BTW when doing this. If your tech has the service manual (I'd check, just to make sure he really is doing things as they should be done!) he'll already know this.

Thanks for the offer of the techs details, but I cannot afford to get it fixed at present. It'll be cheaper for me to just buy another amp really, and get the parts I need from that one.

Haha yes it was/is an epic thread. I didn't do anything really was just following the sage instructions of Mooly, Jaycee et al. Extremely helpful folk!

Best of luck with the repair - keeping them crossed for you!

- John
Thanks John.

I might be reading things wrong here but I'm pretty sure that there is a fuse in the PLPS, see below post of audio Karma.

AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Project Amp
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Old 25th September 2012, 05:38 PM   #17
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by twotone 2 View Post
Thanks John.

I might be reading things wrong here but I'm pretty sure that there is a fuse in the PLPS, see below post of audio Karma.

AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Project Amp
Interesting! I'll have to have a look at the circuit diagram and take a look. Don't recall seeing one when I was working on it, but of course that was a while back now.

Good news about the refund
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Old 25th September 2012, 07:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by johnm View Post
Interesting! I'll have to have a look at the circuit diagram and take a look. Don't recall seeing one when I was working on it, but of course that was a while back now.

Good news about the refund

Hi John, I checked the two glass fuses and the thermal fuse and they all appear to be fine. I also checked for 240v at the amp's power switch and there was on both the brown and on the orange wire when the switch was operated.

I was getting power at the black wire (I think) on the terminal at the board with the big caps on the bottom left hand side of the amp, below the PLPS. Not sure what the voltage is supposed to be there though?

I'm presuming 240v on one of those wires with 24v coming out of the transformer at the right hand side?

Yes a good result with the ebay seller but he asked me to review the negative feedback that I left for him which I did however he was quite cute he left me positive feedback but left a negative comment so I can't ask him to review his feedback however I'm not that bothered as I have fantastic feedback going back about fifteen years.

Tony

Last edited by twotone 2; 25th September 2012 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 9th October 2012, 08:24 AM   #19
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Hi guys, as promised an update for those interested.

The Hi-FI tech has been in touch and said that he's got the amp working, the fault apparently, was a 'broken circuit board' which required 're-building' and he's recommended a service of the switching power unit (replacing capacitors etc) in order to 'prolong life' which I'm going to go along with.

Thanks

Tony
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Old 9th October 2012, 11:03 AM   #20
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Time ago I bought an used Technics SU-V5 from Ebay since my (old) SUZ-200 died and I needed an amp during the building of my DIY one (P101 by Rod Elliott).
I asked to the seller if potentiometers and switches was in good state and he assured me that everything was in optimal state.
Then I decided to buy the amp (Euro 70+10 shipping) and after a few days I received it.
When I opened the box the amp's case was yellow due to the fact that the owner clearly smoked like hell and the first thought was "what will be the state of all the pots ??".
When I turned it on it was very difficult to find a position of the volume pot to listen to both channells at the same level, often one of the channells was inaudible...in a few words it was unusable.
Then I contacted the seller and to make a long story short he refunded me the whole shipping and half the price, so I had the amp for "only" 35 Euro.
I cleaned the case (it took almost an hour to clean all the tobacco from the panels and from inside), I literally disassembled all the pots (it was strange that replacing them with pots of the same kind and value but new, the left channell was always much louder than the right one !), cleaned them and I was able to restore it to let the amp sound as it should.
But it lasted a few weeks, after that problems came back again then I decided to disconnect completely the preamp section and to use it as a "pure" power amp.
I will use it with the one that I'm building to bi-amp my speakers.

Regards,

Roberto

Last edited by washburn_it; 9th October 2012 at 11:08 AM.
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