I have auditioned many amps including Bryston, Pass, Krell, Plinius etc etc... but I found few amplifiers has really good iron fist bass in the sense>>
the bass is so tight and never stints even at the worst hit. Its very authoritative and not rounded just straight hit like a bullet. I am a bit confused where this actually comes from or what factors are very essential that makes this kind of sound.
I am thinking of using these modules..
Connexelectronic
for 200 RMS into 8 ohms Im planning to use 800VA of psu supply and nichicon capacitors of 30,000uf per rail. Total of 60,000uf per rail.
I would like to know is it possible with the above psu and module is it possible to get such bass? If not what are the other things that I need to consider to get it..
the bass is so tight and never stints even at the worst hit. Its very authoritative and not rounded just straight hit like a bullet. I am a bit confused where this actually comes from or what factors are very essential that makes this kind of sound.
I am thinking of using these modules..
Connexelectronic
for 200 RMS into 8 ohms Im planning to use 800VA of psu supply and nichicon capacitors of 30,000uf per rail. Total of 60,000uf per rail.
I would like to know is it possible with the above psu and module is it possible to get such bass? If not what are the other things that I need to consider to get it..
You could have the most perfect amp in the world and not get what you're seeking. It's absolutely everything in the reproduction chain that has to be good enough to not destroy the illusion. A lot of it is luck, because you could reject one component (source, amp, speakers & stands, leads, room etc.) thinking it's bad when, at the time of that test, another component is either below par or doesn't work well with certain other components. I include the room, component positioning, seating position, mains supply, and all the usual equipment variables. I would say the amp circuitry is about 40% max (don't quote me) of the whole issue of bass performance. A good amp can do what you want while delivering only a few watts which makes you think - why do we need so much wattage?
I think the answer is that your amp choice stands as good a chance as any of achieving bass nirvana.
I think the answer is that your amp choice stands as good a chance as any of achieving bass nirvana.
PSU size? how much size for the above module?
how to do the direct coupling for the above module? I would like to mod it if necessary...
This is the documentation and what has to be changed in it? http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/LME49810_Audio_Amplifier_Module.pdf
The module is claims 170watts into 8 ohms which I will be pretty happy now lets consider the PSU...
170x2 roughly 350VA for class AB .. i would like to add more headroom 625VA... I am ready to add more but uncrompromised bass tightness..
more output voltage required from the psu?
what is direct coupling can you tell me what that is?
how to do the direct coupling for the above module? I would like to mod it if necessary...
This is the documentation and what has to be changed in it? http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/LME49810_Audio_Amplifier_Module.pdf
The module is claims 170watts into 8 ohms which I will be pretty happy now lets consider the PSU...
170x2 roughly 350VA for class AB .. i would like to add more headroom 625VA... I am ready to add more but uncrompromised bass tightness..
more output voltage required from the psu?
what is direct coupling can you tell me what that is?
in room measurements, room treatment, more subs, multiple locations, EQed...
amps are way tertiary components in "tuning" a system's sound - it is all about the room, the loudspeakers
I wouldn't consider amp design choices in the running at all compared to loudspeakers, eq as long as they don't clip, run out of current
amps are way tertiary components in "tuning" a system's sound - it is all about the room, the loudspeakers
I wouldn't consider amp design choices in the running at all compared to loudspeakers, eq as long as they don't clip, run out of current
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With an "iron fisted" power supply, an amp can still hit hard in the bass when driven 6dB into clip. Using that old school-equipment you could be clipping almost constantly and not even realize it. With just barely enough to make the power numbers, you know it instantly when it runs out of gas.
Subjectively, the old 1970's PV CS800 will trash an RMX2450 driving subs. It takes a 4050 to keep up - and they're $1500 and weigh almost as much.
Subjectively, the old 1970's PV CS800 will trash an RMX2450 driving subs. It takes a 4050 to keep up - and they're $1500 and weigh almost as much.
As bizarre as it will sound to many people, get the treble right. That iron fist quality is due to minimal distortion in the treble spectrum; it's the very high harmonics that create that subjective impression of tight bass. If you don't believe me, disconnect the treble driver of a system that gets it right, and listen to the bass impact then fall to pieces ...
Frank
Frank
Aside from what Frank said - Damping Factor.
Try some Crown MacroTech amps... the bigger ones have excessive power and very high DF. They put a second FB loop in the the "MacroReference" for even higher DF, you could probably mod a standard MacroTech and add the second loop...
Of course, a very high DF will *reduce* the apparent bass extension on a speaker with a relatively low Qt...
_-_-bear
PS. why Frank is correct: the leading edge of a bass hit is high slope. High slope is routed to the HF section of a speaker - of course the fundamental still goes to the woofer... think about the timing relationship that is required to reconstruct the original? This is also a factor in "realism".
Try some Crown MacroTech amps... the bigger ones have excessive power and very high DF. They put a second FB loop in the the "MacroReference" for even higher DF, you could probably mod a standard MacroTech and add the second loop...
Of course, a very high DF will *reduce* the apparent bass extension on a speaker with a relatively low Qt...
_-_-bear
PS. why Frank is correct: the leading edge of a bass hit is high slope. High slope is routed to the HF section of a speaker - of course the fundamental still goes to the woofer... think about the timing relationship that is required to reconstruct the original? This is also a factor in "realism".
I have a pair of 10 inch vifa Premium line 8 ohms woofers.
I felt that good drivers makes all the difference but good amps are definitely required.
I do accept that tweeters are very important in the aspect I have again decent tweeters scanspeak 9300 which gives the illusion of better bass. I have checked that but getting the damping factor I think like not less than 800 is my min requirement.
Im considering paralleling many psu caps smaller values like 1000uf x 20 per rail to decrease the discharge times from the caps and hence could increase damping factor.
Second feedback loop: how do I do that and what values that I need to consider for that?
I am very interested to mod the above module since feedback is just one resistor. May be for double feedback could be two.
I want to first test the quality of the above module but im worried about tight bass..
what is the psu recommendation...
I felt that good drivers makes all the difference but good amps are definitely required.
I do accept that tweeters are very important in the aspect I have again decent tweeters scanspeak 9300 which gives the illusion of better bass. I have checked that but getting the damping factor I think like not less than 800 is my min requirement.
Im considering paralleling many psu caps smaller values like 1000uf x 20 per rail to decrease the discharge times from the caps and hence could increase damping factor.
Second feedback loop: how do I do that and what values that I need to consider for that?
I am very interested to mod the above module since feedback is just one resistor. May be for double feedback could be two.
I want to first test the quality of the above module but im worried about tight bass..
what is the psu recommendation...
Here is what will give you iron fisted bass. This will rival a thunderstorm outside your home for spl, transients and terror factor. Each sub box paired with a couple of Eminenece Beta 8 mid bass drivers, for the rest of the iron bass experience, will so satisfy your need that it will be decades before you out grow a pair. The more power you throw at these pro audio 15 inch woofers, the more power will shake your house, the whole thing, including window glass. They don't take up much room either. 20 Hz with astounding authority, from our benevolent friend Gary Pimm.
Bud
Bud
Attachments
Good damping is essential to better control of the machanical motion of the speaker, high frequency damping is as well. This is where local high bandwidth error correction comes into play. Once you go EC, you won't go back.
Appropriate damping for the speaker being driven. An amplifier can have too much damping and you end up with lean bass.
dave
Gary Pimm uses a Crown DC 300 (?) as I remember. So, whatever the damping factor of one of those hoary old things is will be just fine with the good lords own thunderboxes. Seriously, Gary said the build was very straight forward and the blue stuff is chopped blue jeans matted into wall insulation for homes. I am sure I can come up with the woofer models if this get's you excited.
Bud
Bud
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