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Old 23rd October 2012, 12:59 PM   #41
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonsai View Post
redjr, thats a very nice mains switch assembly (switch + screw terminals and mounting bracket) you have on your front panel. Is that a bought in assembly, or did you build it up yourself.

Awesome job BTW - I am looking forward to your assessement of the sound once completed.
Bonsai - That's a switch assembly that comes standard on many kits I've bought from my ebay supplier(along) in China. He normally doesn't sell them separately, but he will if you want one. You can't see it in that picture, but there's a LED in front of the assembly that makes the switch glow when powered on. You do have to run 5VDC to the switch to power the LED. But, it can be easily modified by simply using a cable from a PCB where the LED would normally go.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 01:35 PM   #42
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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That switch is almost identical to mine. It too came from China in a chassis kit. One gave a nice blue glow the other gave a yellow glow.
So much for Chinese quality control or complete lack of it.

The tapped slots to hold on the front and back were/are attrocious. I have not found a solution yet.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 01:55 PM   #43
Bonsai is offline Bonsai  Taiwan
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Thanks.

Looks like the best way forward is to roll my own.

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Old 23rd October 2012, 01:58 PM   #44
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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That switch is almost identical to mine. It too came from China in a chassis kit. One gave a nice blue glow the other gave a yellow glow.
So much for Chinese quality control or complete lack of it.

The tapped slots to hold on the front and back were/are attrocious. I have not found a solution yet.
I prefer the blue glow, but at least you can put whatever color LED you like in. I've never had any problems with the mounting holes - either on the switch assembly itself, front panel.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 02:08 PM   #45
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Thanks.

Looks like the best way forward is to roll my own.

It really is a nice little assembly and convenient if you want a lighted, pushbutton switch. You can email along here.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 02:13 PM   #46
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post
.......... I've never had any problems with the mounting holes - either on the switch assembly itself, front panel.
different chassis.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 03:13 PM   #47
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Here are a few more pics of my progress. If these are boring everyone, let me know and I'll quit posting them. I'm waiting on some new knobs before I can lock down the exact location for the front panel switch/control board. I now have only the control cables to attach and install the 3 micro toggle switches on the front panel.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1080567.jpg (988.1 KB, 382 views)
File Type: jpg P1080568.jpg (761.8 KB, 351 views)
File Type: jpg P1080570.jpg (959.2 KB, 316 views)
File Type: jpg P1080572.jpg (989.9 KB, 293 views)
File Type: jpg P1080576.jpg (956.9 KB, 298 views)
File Type: jpg P1080579.jpg (1,013.2 KB, 248 views)
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Old 25th October 2012, 01:34 AM   #48
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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I did a couple momentary power ups tonight after all final wiring was done and heard a click (what sounded like one of the relays). Keep in mind there was no input signal, so I'm not sure if this 'click' is normal for the preamp or not? I didn't leave it on for any length time, but did not notice in magic smoke either. Thoughts?
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Old 25th October 2012, 01:52 AM   #49
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Isn't there a mute relay in the preamp?
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Old 25th October 2012, 04:02 AM   #50
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Isn't there a mute relay in the preamp?
There are two relays used in the tone defeat circuit, but I would expect they would only be energized with the defeat switch on. In the default mode, the relay is not energized. There is no mute function available on this preamp, and there are no other relays shown in the schematic, or on the block diagram as published for the main preamp board.

It's late tonight so I'll do some trouble-shooting tomorrow when my mind is fresh. It's quite possible I have some mis-wiring somewhere causing the click. I've been pretty meticulous and very methodical with my wiring, but mistakes can still be made. I suspect it is a relay. Now that I think about it, since relays are also used on the inputs boards, the click may be the relay for the of whatever input is selected by the selector switch when it is powered on. That makes a lot of sense now.
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Last edited by redjr; 25th October 2012 at 04:25 AM.
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