Yes.
I had a box full of many electrolytics that wanted to go into the power supply, but they were not rated for the 60 VDC or so. Also, I don't need the full power output that is possible with the Honey Badger, so I decided to go for a lower rail voltage.
What chassis are you using? What Toroidal did you use? Thanks for sharing mate!
Being in Australia I'm a little limited to Amplifier Enclosures and unfortunately I cant afford to import one from DIYAudioStore. However I have found a local company with Heatsinks 350mm Long x 151.5mm High x 48mm Fin thickness with a thermal resistance C/Watt 80c of 0.21. (see attached picture).
Going this way I will have to go full custom and do a lot of drilling and tapping which doesn't bother me other than time wasted also I will have to chase up more aluminium plate to finish the front, back and bottom and maybe put a clear poly carbonate cover on top with slotted vents. only concern is, will I have enough internal height of 151.mm which is shorter than 4ru (178mm). however I can go as wide as I want for the width. Also with extra width I could mount the boards horizontal and not vertical and adjacent to the heat sinks.
I've had a decent read through the HB threads and too me it looks like I have to go with two 230v 40v-0-40v Toroidals if I want to be able to use 4 Ohm speakers and not just 8 ohm speakers, is this right?
Also is Niss_Man on the money with this BOM. I found a few of his posts back at #471 very helpful.
Also found this wiring diagram from either MattMCL or Niss_Man??? is this good to follow?
Thanks lads!
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This wiring diagram does not seem to show any ground loop breakers (GLB) to separate the audio GND from safety earth (chassis). Omitting the GLBs may cause ground loop problems. Take a look at post 2905 to see how I did mine.
Thanks mate!
I picked up the two heat sinks today. Such a bargin $38!
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I recently finished two three-channel honey badger amplifiers, and I've finally started work on the active speakers I plan to use with them
The voltage of the transformer you have is less important than the power rating (normally measured in VA). 4 ohm speakers need twice the power at the same voltage as 8 ohm speakers, so you'll need to rate the transformer accordingly. Rod Elliott has some great reference material. I'd start with Power Supply for Power Amplifiers and Linear Power Supply Design for some guidance.
I used +/- 35 AC volt secondaries on my HB amplifiers, for a total of about 50V output. +/-40V AC gets you about 56V DC rail output. If you want 150W output, you'd likely want either two 300VA transformers or one 600VA based on a conservative power rating factor of 2x on your transformer. You'd need to double each of those ratings to go to 300W into 4 ohms, but you'll actually want to do some calculations around the capabilities of the output transistors you're planning to use. A lot won't run 300W safely and continuously - my choice certainly won't. I also used a somewhat undersized transformer in my amps with three sets of rectifiers and capacitors based on my own estimates of what I'd actually need and headroom vs continuous power requirements.
If you happen to be anywhere in Western Australia I do have some gear such as meters and an oscilloscope that may be of some interest when you get that far.
Thanks for sharing Audiorasp.
How do you find that orientation? Would you do it again like that?
What's going with the big caps? What size brand are they. I love the look of the big caps, but I guess it's all down to how they work, sound and cost.
Hello HatlessChimp,
This orientation works out fine, and I'm just finishing up the 4th amp built like this and plan to use them with my Linkwitz LX521 speakers. I wanted to use heatsinks and caps that I had in my parts collection and this layout made it easier for me to build the chassis. There are 12 2" holes under the heatsinks that you can't see to help with ventilation.
The big caps are NOS 47,000uF @80V, and I believe they are Panasonic brand. The only reasons that I chose the caps are that I already had them, and they are a good size and voltage for the Badger amp.
This orientation works out fine, and I'm just finishing up the 4th amp built like this and plan to use them with my Linkwitz LX521 speakers. I wanted to use heatsinks and caps that I had in my parts collection and this layout made it easier for me to build the chassis. There are 12 2" holes under the heatsinks that you can't see to help with ventilation.
The big caps are NOS 47,000uF @80V, and I believe they are Panasonic brand. The only reasons that I chose the caps are that I already had them, and they are a good size and voltage for the Badger amp.
I did the same. Bug.mistake. My old electrolytics were dry, overheated, and blew up. I hated myself for not getting good new parts right from the beginning.
mbremmwa, I agree, and that could be a problem with using older caps. Before I used any of these caps, I "formed" them using my 60vdc bench supply with a 15K 10 watt resistor in series with the positive line. Since I didn't notice any problems and they appeared to be working as they should, I decided to use them. No problems so far.
Right here in the DiyAudio store
The diyAB "Honey Badger" Class AB Power Amp - 150W/Channel – diyAudio Store
The diyAB "Honey Badger" Class AB Power Amp - 150W/Channel – diyAudio Store
Hi to all, just a small question regarding the wiring of the HB amp, do we need to connect the heatsink to ground (GND). I am asking because I have managed to get it all assembled, and I do have some hiss and very little hum, possible from my wiring. While the module was on the heatsink not in the chassis the hum was less present but still there. I will recheck my soldering and clean the board with some whipping alcohol just in case the flux is doing some funny stuff.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Thanks for replying, I will do that first, nothing was overheating from what could see, but better safe than sorry. If i still don't get it dead silent as some here have it, what else could cause the noise?, I have to mention that all the parts got measured, I also matched the transistors up to the MJE... series because the ones in TO220 capsule I couldn't find nothing close enough, even though I bought 12 of each from mouser, I will redo the bias and all again. I hope no semiconductor is dodgy because I really don't want to take it apart. I will also short the input to ground and see if it's silent.
Thanks.
Thanks.