diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread

i was given 2 antek an3232 .....

That is perfectly suitable for highly durable Honey Badger monoblocs/dualmono, well suited to shoving otherwise difficult 4 ohm speakers, such as the Statement series: Statements <--link. Your amplifier would easily have more than the necessary amount of power, so while you might get x-max, there wouldn't be any clipping.

The Honey Badger was originally tested with a 28+28vac transformer, and your transformers are more powerful than that but not excessive, so I would expect a great success and excellent durability/longevity.
 
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Transformers should not be considered as more powerful.

They should be considered as adequate or better than adequate.

Reason being,
As the amplifier and its load determines on how much power is required from the transformer.
The transformer has no bearing on how the amplifier performs unless it is underrated.

The use of the term of a transformer being more powerful can be mistaken.

jer :)
 
I have attached my BoM for the Honey Badger, as a Mouser shared cart available at the URL below. Note that for me at least this is based on Australian pricing.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8080aaf520

Device selection was based on recommendations from Ostripper, component availability and price. Some items drift in and out of stock and so this will no doubt need some modification. Mouser stock a range of metal film resistors from TE Connectivity which I chose preferentially when possible as they are 600mW and a small form factor, but they didn't have stock in all values.

My selection preferences for electrolytic caps was long life and relatively low ESR, along with high voltage rating. This has resulted in a pair of relatively tall capacitors. I tried to use polypropylene rather than polyester caps for the audio signal path.

Note there there is no enameled wire, no heat sink compound and no Red LED.

I sourced the 0.22 ohm resistors from AnalogMetric. Lead spacing isn't exact but is easily widened.

Cement 0.2 Ohm 5W Non-inductance Resistor_Cement_Resistor_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit

I can attach a spreadhseet with my component selections if that's easier, otherwise I'll leave the Mouser BoM.
Wembley,

I inadvertently saved over and renamed your shared list to My Honey badger.... on Mouser. Could you please go back in and re-upload your BOM because I had gone in and doubled the qty of everything. Maybe that's more useful for everyone, but I didn't want to mess with your list. I thought I had saved it to my 'saved list' when I renamed it, sure enough your's was gone and my named cart was there instead. I don't know how mine ended up being shared too! :eek:

Sorry,

Rick

P.s. Is it possible I didn't rename yours since you are the owner? Maybe I'm only seeing my list PLUS the shared list and your is showing up as my renamed list. I dunno since I haven't used this shared list/cart function at all.
 
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Does anyone know the orientation of the zener diode? I can't find documentation for this and it is not clear to an amateur from the circuit diagram.
H Badger
The zener diode is not symbol designated as there is an option to use a resistor or the zener. The cathode of the zener is pointing up with the writing on the pc board in readable orientation (toward r19) This is the OS V2.3 pc board . The cathode of the zener is the end
with the band or bar printed on the ZD itself.
Cheers,
Jim M.
good luck!!!!! Thanks to all the good people responsible for the success of this forum.
 
Probably just because that's what the PCB was designed for. A typical axial 5W ceramic wirewound will work, but will have to be stood on end.

I noticed the diodes being stood on end as well... I can only imagine this is for heat dissipation. Is it completely necessary? I imagine the diodes get hotter on one end but the resistors?

Any ideas on the previous post for the leads?

-Phil