diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread - Page 70 - diyAudio
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Old 23rd October 2013, 02:11 PM   #691
PJN is online now PJN  United States
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for all of your input. I'm traveling for work this week, but I'll check things out following your suggestions this weekend and report back

Thanks again

PJN
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Old 26th October 2013, 08:17 PM   #692
PJN is online now PJN  United States
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Hi Guys,

I had the chance to check the resistor values and found eight of them that were way way off. This is a tough lesson, I didn't check every value when I put them in, I assumed that Digikey would include the correct values, boy was I wrong. It's time to get the correct values and install them. Thanks for your help.

PJN
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Old 29th October 2013, 03:47 AM   #693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJN View Post
I assumed that Digikey would include the correct values, boy was I wrong.
PJN
I've had the same problem with Mouser. Some times they send me an item completely unrelated to what I bought. But sometimes it's a resistor with the wrong value. Very frustrating.
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Old 31st October 2013, 04:33 AM   #694
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Quick question: When using the soft star board, is it necessary (or recommended) to use thermistors when connecting the dual primaries in parallel or one of the line-in legs (to ground) prior to the soft start for 120V? I was looking at the F5 build guide and this was depicted... By the way, this is for the Honey Badger...
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Old 31st October 2013, 01:25 PM   #695
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No, you don't need an NTC and a soft start for the Honey Badger.

The purpose of the NTC in the F5 is to provide the soft start. Class A amps draw high current all the time so the NTC has low resistance in normal operating conditions. The class AB Honey Badger will not draw high current until it is running at high power, so you want to get the resistance out of the way once the turn on surge is past with a soft start.

There is a school of thought that says NTCs are better than regular resistors in the soft start circuit because they won't burn up if the relay fails to operate. You would put them in place of the resistors - do not parallel, just use one or place them in series.
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Old 31st October 2013, 04:43 PM   #696
RINNAV is offline RINNAV  United States
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No, you don't need an NTC and a soft start for the Honey Badger.
Thanks Bob! That makes sense but wanted to make sure that wasn't inferred somewhere that I missed...
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Old 4th November 2013, 11:40 PM   #697
RINNAV is offline RINNAV  United States
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I have seen a couple of different opinions on the VBE multiplier. Is there an advantage to the bus bar (besides extra heat dissipation)? Or for that matter, an advantage to mounting the VBE multiplier to the top of the bus bar? I have mine mocked up directly to the heat sink now and want to make sure before I lay down some solder. I would rather not struggle with the de-soldering tools...

Thanks!
Jason
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Old 5th November 2013, 12:30 AM   #698
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You're better off the way you have it. You want the Vbe multiplier to sense device/heat sink temperature to prevent thermal runaway. On the buss bar (I assume you mean a bar used to clamp all the output devices to the sink.) There is significant risk that the sinks will heat up and the outputs run away long before the bus bar notices the heat.
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Old 5th November 2013, 01:26 AM   #699
RINNAV is offline RINNAV  United States
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Bob, that is exactly what I mean. The build guide shows the bus bar clamping down on the top of the outputs and the VBE multiplier mounted on top of the bus bar. I remembered someone suggesting that the VBE multiplier would be better on the main sink. I will mount them to the heat sink right in between the outputs.

Thanks again!
Jason
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Old 5th November 2013, 01:47 AM   #700
mattmcl is offline mattmcl  United States
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I decided to mount all of them Q13, 14 and 15 to the main heat sink as well.
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