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Old 13th September 2013, 10:39 PM   #601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJN View Post
Are any builders using more fancy film and foil or botique caps for the input cap, and if so was there a worthwhile improvement ? I'm getting closer to finishing mine and was just wondering.

Thanks,

PJN
Clarity cap SA. Worthwhile improvement = yes.
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Old 14th September 2013, 01:14 AM   #602
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niss_man, have you compared the Clarity Cap SA to no cap at all (DC connected)?
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Old 14th September 2013, 02:18 AM   #603
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Originally Posted by BobEllis View Post
niss_man, have you compared the Clarity Cap SA to no cap at all (DC connected)?
Nope. I will let other experimenters do that.
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Old 15th September 2013, 01:42 PM   #604
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Well I finished it. Well sort of. I should probably make the changes OS suggested. It sounds lovely like it is. The case ended up larger than needed because of the size of the heatsinks I had and the length of the PCB's. I think if I knew how to design PCB's I would design it to have three outputs per side rather than in a row to shorten it up. My heatsinks get barely warm. Could have done with half the size easily. It may find it's way to a smaller case some day. Anyway, here it is in the 5U case. a couple pics with my son's Hafler sitting on top for scale.

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Old 15th September 2013, 05:39 PM   #605
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Old 16th September 2013, 12:28 AM   #606
janusz is offline janusz  Australia
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Your PA is enormous, still4given, and looks good. If you PS voltage is not much higher than 125V (- to +) then you could use BAS45a ostripper recommended as it has very low reverse current. Actually, some of these diodes are likely to have higher reverse voltage than the nominal 125V by 10V or so. Stochino uses many antisaturation diodes in his amp and he recommended that builders select diodes with reverse voltage higher than their nominal maximum by over 10V and every second diode from those recommended had that voltage higher than their nominal maximum.

You may also build a regulates PS for LTP and VAS with rails roughly +/-5V higher/lower than the output PS. It will make some difference. Just get a 2x50V 80VA toroid.

cheers,
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Old 17th September 2013, 03:51 AM   #607
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Decoration: I think this needs 1 pair of big VU meters for the "eyes" and the biggest volume knob you can find for the "nose" and maybe some side handles too.
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Old 18th September 2013, 12:36 AM   #608
janusz is offline janusz  Australia
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For those who would like to use separate regulated PS for LTP and VAS. With 2x50V or so it can give nicely regulated output up to +/-68V. Tip33-zener-resistors form a protection circuit for regulators and prvent the maximum input-output volatege for regulators to be exceeded.

cheers,
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File Type: pdf regulated PS 2011-06-20 sch.pdf (58.7 KB, 62 views)

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Old 18th September 2013, 04:44 AM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janusz View Post
For those who would like to use separate regulated PS for LTP and VAS. With 2x50V or so it can give nicely regulated output up to +/-68V. Tip33-zener-resistors form a protection circuit for regulators and prvent the maximum input-output volatege for regulators to be exceeded.

cheers,
One would "lift" R32 and R33 (omit them) and solder a pin (wire wrap post) on the blue/ red LED side of those resistor pads. This is where you would connect the higher rail (separate PS).

A 5-10R (1/2w) fusible resistor would be the best safety component used between that supply and the LTP/VAS.

This is the present form of the first "badger" (mine) - 60-0-60VDC for the drivers/OPS and 68-0-68VDC for the LTP/VAS.
The Nikko amp's (badger replaced the nikko) toroid secondaries are 42-0-42 and 50-0-50VAC...
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Old 18th September 2013, 05:09 AM   #610
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Does the PS for the front end have to be regulated?
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