diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread - Page 33 - diyAudio
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Old 12th June 2013, 09:22 AM   #321
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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That would be roughly 100W into 4ohms speaker.
I seem to recall you use 4ohms.
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Old 12th June 2013, 05:46 PM   #322
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I do for some of my stuff. My Nearfields are 4ohms and my JBL 4425 are 6ohm.

My experience is that with good speakers, 100 watts is VERY LOUD! If I use both trannies, I'll have +/- 39V at 10A. High bias should be no problem. I don't plan on using this for PA work.
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Old 12th June 2013, 10:03 PM   #323
ncg2013 is offline ncg2013  United Kingdom
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Default Double decker toroids

Hi All

To save space I am thinking of mounting two toroids one on top of the other, does anyone know if this will present a problem?
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Old 21st June 2013, 12:57 PM   #324
AJT is offline AJT  Philippines
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no problem, just get a longer bolt....
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Old 27th June 2013, 01:20 AM   #325
pthep is offline pthep  Canada
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First post on this forum. I have aquired the p-diyab-2v20 boards from the store, plus downloaded the build guide and bom. I am about to begin sourcing the required components to get on with this project. I have been reading through the 2 major threads and noticed there is a lot of discusion about certain part types and values etc, most of which, I admit I don't understand. My major concern is that if I follow the published BOM is that going to give me a satisfactory result? An area where an option is available, namely D3, what is that going to acheive? Also the G1 and G2 on the schematic, different potential? Forgive me for being technically inept when it comes to electronics, its not my first calling, but that doesn't dampen the interest.
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Old 28th June 2013, 01:24 AM   #326
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Welcome aboard pthep.

I built my HB using the published BOM exactly, and am very happy with the sound. One catch is that the holes for D3/R18 are too small for the recommended D3. I was able to widen them with a 1/32" drill bit on a Dremmel.
Also, the recommended power resistors (R43 to R48) are no longer available, and no one (that I know of) has been able to find a replacement with the same lead spacing. So I mounted wirewound resistors standing upright, which is what I think others have done.

Have fun!
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Old 28th June 2013, 01:35 AM   #327
AJT is offline AJT  Philippines
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here's mine...
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 28th June 2013, 01:47 AM   #328
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To answer your other questions:
I didn't understand what is gained by the "zener reference design" over the "Luxman" way either. But the Luxman design was described as "crude" in the build guide, so I guessed it must be somehow inferior.
You can follow the trace from the ground-end of D1, D2 and R4 (G2) all the way to the star ground (G1) so they're not at different potentials. I really can't guess why they are written at G1 and G2 on the schematic.
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Old 28th June 2013, 03:37 AM   #329
AJT is offline AJT  Philippines
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a ground is a ground is a ground, and a ground, should all have zero voltage...

regarding r18/d3, i pressolderd the resistor to the zener, clipped leads and soldered the combination into the board...

i had to enlarge some of the holes to facilitate lead insertions, a pcb drill came in handy...
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Old 28th June 2013, 06:46 AM   #330
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Tony,
Are these boards available for sale from this website somewhere or did you do those boards yourself ? If so have you got a link ?
The link at #305 is dead to me.
Thanks
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