So, hopefully I'm posting in the right section. I have an old Logitech X-530 system that still works fine BUT I'm just not satisfied with the sound quality.
So, here's a few pics of the amp circuitry. The volume control is on the front left channel and is connected to the port circled in red in the 2nd photo.
Anywho, I'm trying to find a simple and inexpensive way to improve sound quality a bit (upgrade some caps?).
Also, I'm planning on rebuilding the satellites. The sub will remain as is for now (unless you have any suggestions for that as well). The satellites will consist of 4 1/2" 8ohm AKAI drivers and 1" BIC America 1" dome tweets in a custom "mini bookshelf" enclosure.
I know current connected load per sat is 4ohms, and I'm sure I can just wire the new drivers in parallel and get the same load. I was, however, considering bi-amping the drivers (not using the rear channels on this system). Should I just wire in parallel or bi-amp using the rear channels?
Anyway, any help at all would be very very appreciated.
Thanks!
PS: If pics are small, I can email you the full size which are pretty large.
So, here's a few pics of the amp circuitry. The volume control is on the front left channel and is connected to the port circled in red in the 2nd photo.
Anywho, I'm trying to find a simple and inexpensive way to improve sound quality a bit (upgrade some caps?).
Also, I'm planning on rebuilding the satellites. The sub will remain as is for now (unless you have any suggestions for that as well). The satellites will consist of 4 1/2" 8ohm AKAI drivers and 1" BIC America 1" dome tweets in a custom "mini bookshelf" enclosure.
I know current connected load per sat is 4ohms, and I'm sure I can just wire the new drivers in parallel and get the same load. I was, however, considering bi-amping the drivers (not using the rear channels on this system). Should I just wire in parallel or bi-amp using the rear channels?
Anyway, any help at all would be very very appreciated.
Thanks!
PS: If pics are small, I can email you the full size which are pretty large.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You may realise from your nice Pics, that these are chip-amps. i.e the output power is delivered by the large ICs with around 20 pins and mounted to heatsinks.
'Not a lot of design discussion to apply there, outside the manufacturers applcation notes and alternative PCBs. You need to post in the chip-amp forum, accessible from the home page or the mods may move the post if you report yourself.
'Not a lot of design discussion to apply there, outside the manufacturers applcation notes and alternative PCBs. You need to post in the chip-amp forum, accessible from the home page or the mods may move the post if you report yourself.
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I'm sorry to have to provide such a negative post...
Upgrading components won't change much. The fault here is the everything. Bad from the start, and not much can be done about such a thing, other than redoing it from scratch. Modifying the speakers, too, probably won't improve things much.
Su'scon caps... those are considered the worst in the world. Very short life time (and that life is one in agony). That thing is obviously a victim of planned obsolecense. I'm surprised it still works (looks like it was built in 2004).
Upgrading components won't change much. The fault here is the everything. Bad from the start, and not much can be done about such a thing, other than redoing it from scratch. Modifying the speakers, too, probably won't improve things much.
Su'scon caps... those are considered the worst in the world. Very short life time (and that life is one in agony). That thing is obviously a victim of planned obsolecense. I'm surprised it still works (looks like it was built in 2004).
My apologies for posting in the wrong section.
Well, now that we know it's a **** poor design......any suggestion on extremely low priced 2.1 solutions? Chances are, I'll be using only 2.0 but I'd like to have the sub amp there in case I decide I need the sub. Or would it be easier to just amp a separate sub amp in the future if I find it necessary?
Well, now that we know it's a **** poor design......any suggestion on extremely low priced 2.1 solutions? Chances are, I'll be using only 2.0 but I'd like to have the sub amp there in case I decide I need the sub. Or would it be easier to just amp a separate sub amp in the future if I find it necessary?
It's a set of pc speakers....you're reply isn't very specific....annnnd there's no fun if there's no DIY.
Powered or unpowered speakers are the priority with 2.1 desktop IMHO.
You can't avoid the cost of quality boxes unless someone gives them away. Trawl Ebay or your favourite used goods website, auctions,
fleamarkets and study what makes good speakers, who fairly evaluates gear to your needs and DIY those things you can't easily reach.
It will will save you money in the long term but buying tools, books and parts to get started is not cheap either.
It is a long learning curve but progress of newbs here is pretty good, when the projects are supported with reading reliable books,
papers and threads supported by the valuable pro. engineers we have cruising this fabulous forum.
Welcome, use it, learn and share - you may love it for reasons you weren't even looking for
You can't avoid the cost of quality boxes unless someone gives them away. Trawl Ebay or your favourite used goods website, auctions,
fleamarkets and study what makes good speakers, who fairly evaluates gear to your needs and DIY those things you can't easily reach.
It will will save you money in the long term but buying tools, books and parts to get started is not cheap either.
It is a long learning curve but progress of newbs here is pretty good, when the projects are supported with reading reliable books,
papers and threads supported by the valuable pro. engineers we have cruising this fabulous forum.
Welcome, use it, learn and share - you may love it for reasons you weren't even looking for
If you include the amplifiers in the count ....
And manage to exclude the preamplifier section , You can run
4 identical amplifiers . Or just two , depending on request ...
For example , running 4 together with Akai /BIC speakers ,
and using each to drive a speaker ( bi-amplification )
Or built an active crossover ( for ex. with the TDA 2320 A )
and try active multi - ampli .
Quite right.
I can't fit rack size gear or domestic speakers on the desk either. That is why Logitech gear, with another 1,001 similar cheep products are popular, even if they sound awful. As I posted earlier, the critical issue is good, small loudspeakers for at least the mid/upper frequencies.
Get them first after trying them out close-up like on your desk and then look at refinements with different amps as the need for greater power or sound quality arises.
When you look over your amplifier board, it'll be straightforward finding the connections to various outputs and you can reuse that amplifier as-is until you find something more appropriate as a case or whatever suits your budget. Unfortunately, the old parts.-swapping routine may be simple and even cheap but only makes subtle improvements where they actually are required - often, not at all.
If you do try vintage domestic speakers on the desktop, you'll be sorely disappointed because any crossover is designed for optimum results at about 2.5m, not < 1m as desktop or so-called "near field monitors" are.
I can't fit rack size gear or domestic speakers on the desk either. That is why Logitech gear, with another 1,001 similar cheep products are popular, even if they sound awful. As I posted earlier, the critical issue is good, small loudspeakers for at least the mid/upper frequencies.
Get them first after trying them out close-up like on your desk and then look at refinements with different amps as the need for greater power or sound quality arises.
When you look over your amplifier board, it'll be straightforward finding the connections to various outputs and you can reuse that amplifier as-is until you find something more appropriate as a case or whatever suits your budget. Unfortunately, the old parts.-swapping routine may be simple and even cheap but only makes subtle improvements where they actually are required - often, not at all.
If you do try vintage domestic speakers on the desktop, you'll be sorely disappointed because any crossover is designed for optimum results at about 2.5m, not < 1m as desktop or so-called "near field monitors" are.
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The biggest problem is the speakers. The drive units are always crap quality, and come in rattling little plastic boxes. Ugh.
If you want good, small speakers, try looking at satellite speakers for surround sound systems - the decent ones, not the tacky thin plastic box crap. For example, JBL Control 1's
If you want good, small speakers, try looking at satellite speakers for surround sound systems - the decent ones, not the tacky thin plastic box crap. For example, JBL Control 1's
No!!! Those T-amps are the last thing i would look at for high quality audio, i bought one and it was the worst hunk of junk i ever heard, totally unlistenable.
It have since been reduced to a passive volume control that i used when testing my various projects.
For diy high quality audio i'd recommend the ultimate fidelity amplifier by apex audio or the DX Blame series amplifiers by Destroyer X.
And if near field is the only option, look for a set of studio monitors, i know a make and model thats been recommended but i cant remember what they were atm.
It have since been reduced to a passive volume control that i used when testing my various projects.
For diy high quality audio i'd recommend the ultimate fidelity amplifier by apex audio or the DX Blame series amplifiers by Destroyer X.
And if near field is the only option, look for a set of studio monitors, i know a make and model thats been recommended but i cant remember what they were atm.
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