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Old 18th April 2012, 06:43 AM   #131
sonnya is offline sonnya  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idefixes View Post
Hi LC, Thanks one more time for new advices, i will rework. I would conserve PC length at 150mm as there is a 150x200 standart board. For MCP i must look on ebay as i couldn't find those brand on conventionnels store even internet stores. It's quite normal you can identify "crowded building blocks from sch like islands" as i split it into blocs. I will see if i been able to relax that blocs.

Could you give me the Voltage reating for 100µ, 1mF and 2.2mf to see if i could gain more space to adjust to real needing size?

Marc
Printline

Printline - Speeding up your business

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Old 18th April 2012, 06:54 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonnya View Post
Printline

Printline - Speeding up your business

They are very professional and will save you for a lot of frustration.
Sonnya thanks for advise, i will take a look even i things i don't like with professionnal pcb espeacialy with double layer and metalized holes are the difficulty of desoldering...With thin tracks or multiple pin compo it can become a pity. I don't doubt that i have to desolder on TSSA pcb board as it is a non "improved" design...

Marc
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Old 18th April 2012, 07:19 AM   #133
sonnya is offline sonnya  Denmark
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Then just order singlesided PCB.
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Old 18th April 2012, 08:21 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idefixes View Post
Hi LC, Thanks one more time for new advices, i will rework. I would conserve PC length at 150mm as there is a 150x200 standart board. For MCP i must look on ebay as i couldn't find those brand on conventionnels store even internet stores. It's quite normal you can identify "crowded building blocks from sch like islands" as i split it into blocs. I will see if i been able to relax that blocs.

Could you give me the Voltage reating for 100µ, 1mF and 2.2mf to see if i could gain more space to adjust to real needing size?

Marc
Marc, PCB design is a time dependant job as well, next day you see things that today seems impossible, specifics of designing. So make it in a slow process, take your time, at the end will be just perfect.

Parts specifics:
- 100 uF/16 V 3x
- 1000 uF/6,3 V (10 V) 1x
- 2200 uF/6,3 V (10 V) 2x
- supply decoupling elcos have to be 63 V for your +/-50 V version
- all elcos best of quality (Nichicon, Panasonic, Mundorf, ...)
- all resistors 2 W and down should be metal film
- MPC71 - on line order at very trustful Buerklin

Best regards Andrej
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Old 18th April 2012, 08:47 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonnya View Post
Then just order singlesided PCB.
Sonnya,

For single layer, i do it my own to house for quite long time, but it's more a pity to do it in artisanal mode in double layer....then printline is the solution.

Marc
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Old 18th April 2012, 11:02 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazy Cat View Post
Marc, PCB design is a time dependant job as well, next day you see things that today seems impossible, specifics of designing. So make it in a slow process, take your time, at the end will be just perfect.

Parts specifics:
- 100 uF/16 V 3x
- 1000 uF/6,3 V (10 V) 1x
- 2200 uF/6,3 V (10 V) 2x
- supply decoupling elcos have to be 63 V for your +/-50 V version
- all elcos best of quality (Nichicon, Panasonic, Mundorf, ...)
- all resistors 2 W and down should be metal film
- MPC71 - on line order at very trustful Buerklin

Best regards Andrej
Thanks LC.

For Elcos i like to use panasonic FC and NHG (2200µ 63V). For Smoothing cap i have United chemicon U32D in 22.000µ 63V 4 unit, may add 4 for to have 2x22.000µF 63V per rail per amp board.

Marc
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Last edited by Idefixes; 18th April 2012 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 19th April 2012, 12:03 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazy Cat View Post
Nice progress Idefixes. As this is single layer PCB it's understandable that you're playing inside limited options. Wire jumpers sometimes are just not enough, space optimization in this kind of PCB depends only on designer's ingenuity. You're getting close to the limits, but still some more room for improvement.

Also the output's emitter resistors should be different, MPC71, 0,22 ohm/5W, non-inductive should find place here. 10 ohm zobel resistor should be 2 W, much smaller than the present one.

TLP627 area is to crowded and too close to screw. Move BF245B + resistor to the other side and put blue LED in the middle position near the input. It's always nice to maintain symmetry from the sch to the PCB as well.

Input BJTs should be closer with pins since their flats will be glued together.

Orientation of the IR LEDs should maintain their serial position as on sch, no brainer when installing the parts and soldering.

I still see separated crowded building blocks from sch like islands, not spreading enough across the empty areas. When and if you will relax that blocks, tracks will automatically be shorter, individual parts will find more space around them. Yeah PITA job I know.
Hi LC, here's my interpretation from advices you give.
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Last edited by Idefixes; 19th April 2012 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 19th April 2012, 04:51 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idefixes View Post
Hi LC, here's my interpretation from advices you give.
And here's my interpretation of your PCB.

Explanations:
- MUR460 are size as now
- power supply indication LEDs need 5 mA, 10 k/1 W resistor is enough
- move left part of PCB to 0,22 ohm to get equal distance from both MJL to IRF (IRF exactly in the middle)
- use PCB area over outputs to spread the parts more freely (power supply pin, fuse, 0,1 uF etc)
- align outputs pins to the same horizontal grid
- use horizontal middle symmetry line to get simmetry from lower and upper part of the pcb (2N5462 according to 2N5486 etc)
- TLP section rearanged as you can see
- align input BJTs, trimmers, etc (parts in the middle) to horizontal middle symmetry line
- use wire jumpers of the same lenght, so one can prepare them as the same part in quantites
- etc

OK, I think you've got an impression now.
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Old 19th April 2012, 06:24 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazy Cat View Post
And here's my interpretation of your PCB.

Explanations:
- MUR460 are size as now
- power supply indication LEDs need 5 mA, 10 k/1 W resistor is enough
- move left part of PCB to 0,22 ohm to get equal distance from both MJL to IRF (IRF exactly in the middle)
- use PCB area over outputs to spread the parts more freely (power supply pin, fuse, 0,1 uF etc)
- align outputs pins to the same horizontal grid
- use horizontal middle symmetry line to get simmetry from lower and upper part of the pcb (2N5462 according to 2N5486 etc)
- TLP section rearanged as you can see
- align input BJTs, trimmers, etc (parts in the middle) to horizontal middle symmetry line
- use wire jumpers of the same lenght, so one can prepare them as the same part in quantites
- etc

OK, I think you've got an impression now.
That's good impression.....they make me progress.....when it commes to such détails it smell good (direct traduction of a french expression)....
Thanks for spending time on my work to propre evolving.

Marc
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Old 19th April 2012, 06:58 AM   #140
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The blue led i have ( VAOL-3LSBY4 VCC Standard LED - Through Hole )needs 20mA / 3.5v so lowering from 50 to 3.5 at 20mA need R=(50-3.5)/0.02=2.325kOhm at P=(50-3.5)*0.2=0.93w so with 2 1W resitors in // i have 2w power dissipation range and can get close to the 2.325kOhm. With resistor value between 2kOhm - 2.6kOhm i think i be in "fonctionnal" range value no?
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