ROTEL RA-820BX3 not working

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I got a broken ROTEL RA-820BX3 pretty cheap.
When I started to measure voltages I discovered that they are about 4 volts lower then they should be, according to the service manual.

I measured now the voltages at the rectifier and found out that instead of 41 volt they have 37 volt. I assume that the power supply does not work properly now, or?
 
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Very old. You may have high leakage of the main supply caps loading it down.
Your measurement is in idle. Correct? No input.
Low rails should not make much difference in it working as an amp, so I think you are not looking att eh correct problem first. What is the bias set at?
 
Very old. You may have high leakage of the main supply caps loading it down.
Your measurement is in idle. Correct? No input.
Low rails should not make much difference in it working as an amp, so I think you are not looking att eh correct problem first. What is the bias set at?

Yes I measure without input.
Then I took out the fuses which appear after the Transformer. Then I measure an AC of around 25 Volts. So I guess no problem with the caps...
Bias I have not measured yet...
 
Looking at the schematic i cant see a circuit for the speaker protection, but if the service manual is not the right one, maybe you have those circuit in your amp. If that is a case check if there is a DC voltage on the output, measure at the meeting point of 0.22 ohms ressistors.
 
Looking at the schematic i cant see a circuit for the speaker protection, but if the service manual is not the right one, maybe you have those circuit in your amp. If that is a case check if there is a DC voltage on the output, measure at the meeting point of 0.22 ohms ressistors.

Jajaja this funny with this schematic...but thats the one I found...If i measure directly at the speaker output I read almost 3mV on my multimeter.
 
If the relay is not switching, most probably there is a problem with the driver circuit (sometimes they also get stuck, but that's not the norm). It normally should engage a few seconds after power on, requiring only the main amplifier supplies to be present.

Relay driver circuitry is located just above the rectifier. Check the indicated DC voltages around Q638 and Q639, especially the -5.7 V. My primary suspects would include a leaky C652 and a dead Q639. Also check the thermistor for continuity.

In case the power indicator should be flickery, replace the little 10µ/50 electrolytic (C653).
 
GoranB, there is a relay based circuit according to the schematic, but it is not a conventional DC protection. It appears to be simply for anti-thump and thermal overheat protection. It connects the current source made by Q607 to the VAS buffers Q609/Q611. If the relay or its control circuitry fails to energise, there will be no sound.
 
TH601 is near Q627 and Q628, right near the heatsink. If it is missing from the board then that could be the cause.

What I should have said was you can jumper across the relay to check whether the power amp part then works correctly.

I found TH601. It is glued on the Q627 :)
I will buy some transistors tomorrow and exchange Q638/639. Can I use BC 640 for 2SA608K?
If I need to exchange the thyristor TH601 (td5c350d), which substitute shall I get? My Ohmmeter reads 70k on this part, but I measured directly on the board...
 
I doubt the thermistor is faulty, but apparently it is a 50Kohm NTC type. You can test it easily - measure its resistance and heat it up with the tip of a soldering iron. You should see the resistance change.

You can use BC640 but bear in mind the pinout will be different so you will have to bend the leads to fit.
 
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