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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
![]() Sadly, by now it's a well established fact that when it comes to 2SK77's there's nary a one to be found on the entire planet. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Me too. Back then I was part of a Yamaha (and others) warranty depot/audio repair shop and I couldn't even afford the price of thinking about getting one of those ultimate Yamaha amps. These days, with the outputs being virtual unobtainium and B-2's being far more affordable and sustainable, I went that way instead and I have absolutely no regrets. For less than the price of a functioning B-1 I got 2 fworking B-2's and completely reconditioned them.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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"and anything on the board extenders."
Contact Yamaha to see if they are still available.
__________________
Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
if you have a DVM with a diode check function, before you go to the expense of having someone else test them, it's pretty easy to check those gargantuan T03 N Channel V-FET unobtainiums. The B-1 is very modular and the heatsink assembly pull out easily. Once you have them out you can test them right on the heatsinks.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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They measure as a short until you apply a bias voltage (depletion mode).
__________________
Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: within cannon shot of Disneyland
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THANK YOU!! Iam still a little afraid cause someone said that you can blow them easily. I've already taken out the Ch. A
(+)_(-) and did the diode test but even after drawing it out to test at the connector I forget where I've been (sumthin to do with aging) Or I just get too excited that they might be working!$$ |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: D-55629 Schwarzerden
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
To test them, first start by setting your DVM to the lowest ohms range. Connect the meter directly between the Drain and the Source leads and your meter should display a reading of around 5 ohms or so regardless of meter polarity. If you get a really low reading like 0.01 ohms or less or you get an open circuit reading they are likely damaged. ![]() Next switch the meter to the diode test mode and connect the positive meter lead to the Gate and the negative meter lead to either the Source or Drain. You should see a forward biased diode drop like 0.500 ~ 0.700 mV between Gate and Source and between Gate and Drain if the FET is good. Next do the same testing with reverse polarity of the meter leads and your meter should show infinity or an open circuit depending on how your meter functions. If you get these types of measurements the FETs are most likely still good. ![]() I've attached a page from the B-1 owners manual that gives some data on these wonderful devices just for fun. I hope they're still good and let us know what you find. |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: D-55629 Schwarzerden
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Quote:
Observe this thread from time to time concerning news for a possible reintroduce of such V-FET's: Successors for V-FET SONY-Yamaha-TOKIN 2SJ28, 2SJ18/2SK60, 2SJ26/2SK76 and 2SK180 |
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