GFA-585 LE ADVICE! - Page 2

embrown057 · 29th January 2012, 09:05 PM

The board is pressed fiberglass and yes traces of the fluid will seap into the board at some point. You will not see bluging in these cap like the bad caps in computer mb's. Some times the board wil have to be cleaned down to the copper traces. After the board is compleated get some conofrmal coaating from Mouser, like 30+ a can do not use clear spray paint, it's not the same. Just make sure when you order the caps from mouser you look at the size of the caps to make sure they will fit. The only adjustments are the BIAS and unless your friend has done a lot of 565's it can easly be done wrong. Even the manual leaves out step's on this adjustment. The unit also should be qualified by distorshion test SIAND and DIST using a HP8903A and scope or equiv. There is no way I could advice you on parts replacement other then the lytic's without testing the unit myself. Goodluck.

Ed

bigskyaudio · 1st March 2012, 05:55 AM

Before cleaning, remove the bias pots and metal brackets. I use Simple Green cleaner diluted about 1 part to 10 parts RO water. Let the boards soak in a plastic tray for about 15 minutes and scrub with a soft nylon acid brush. Rinse well and repeat; the board has to be totally free of electrolyte contamination and it may take several cleaning cycles. I use a hair dryer on low to dry the boards and then let them air dry for at least a day. The capacitor electrolyte is colorless and very difficult to see without a magnifying lamp. The three 220uF electrolytics (per board) are the problem and the leaky cap issue applies to the GFA-585 and the GFA-565 monoblocks. Be sure to remove the DC servo IC and clean the chip itself, especially underneath and between the pins. While you are at it, replace the two 100uF bypass capacitors.

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29th January 2012, 09:05 PM	#11
embrown057 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida	The board is pressed fiberglass and yes traces of the fluid will seap into the board at some point. You will not see bluging in these cap like the bad caps in computer mb's. Some times the board wil have to be cleaned down to the copper traces. After the board is compleated get some conofrmal coaating from Mouser, like 30+ a can do not use clear spray paint, it's not the same. Just make sure when you order the caps from mouser you look at the size of the caps to make sure they will fit. The only adjustments are the BIAS and unless your friend has done a lot of 565's it can easly be done wrong. Even the manual leaves out step's on this adjustment. The unit also should be qualified by distorshion test SIAND and DIST using a HP8903A and scope or equiv. There is no way I could advice you on parts replacement other then the lytic's without testing the unit myself. Goodluck. Ed

1st March 2012, 05:55 AM	#12
bigskyaudio diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Helena, MT	Before cleaning, remove the bias pots and metal brackets. I use Simple Green cleaner diluted about 1 part to 10 parts RO water. Let the boards soak in a plastic tray for about 15 minutes and scrub with a soft nylon acid brush. Rinse well and repeat; the board has to be totally free of electrolyte contamination and it may take several cleaning cycles. I use a hair dryer on low to dry the boards and then let them air dry for at least a day. The capacitor electrolyte is colorless and very difficult to see without a magnifying lamp. The three 220uF electrolytics (per board) are the problem and the leaky cap issue applies to the GFA-585 and the GFA-565 monoblocks. Be sure to remove the DC servo IC and clean the chip itself, especially underneath and between the pins. While you are at it, replace the two 100uF bypass capacitors.