Roender's FC-100 prototype and builder's thread

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Rudi_Ratlos

Rudi_Ratlos

Member
Joined 2009
Carlos, dear old friend,

the "DIY bacillus" infected me, since I have come to know you.

I am sure that you will remember my / EVETTE's versions (layouts) of your DX AMP, the DX BlameES/ST, the DX Blame MKII, ...

Mihai Rauta's "FC-100" inspired me once again to do a layout and group-buy of his AMP.

And - of course - this new AMP has to compete with your DX BlameES (this version, nothing else, that never made its way to the community, because it played like an "insane divine") ,with Michael Bittner's (my TO3) SYMASYM ...

I will give you the results of my "Shootout's Stammtisch" as soon as I will have them.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
 
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Rudi_Ratlos

Rudi_Ratlos

Member
Joined 2009
Luke, I bought the 2SC3423 from a different supplier.
Hfe measurement with my DMM and with means of another small matching PCB shows reasonable results.

Best regards - Rudi
 

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AndrewT

R.I.P.
Joined 2004
Rudi,
what results did you get that gave you reason to suspect that the devices are fakes?

Your testing jig has quite high values of resistors for testing medium power devices say around 5W to 10W.
I suggest you reduce resistor values by a factor of 10, except emitter resistor, reduce this by a factor of 100 or even remove it.

Even for To92 devices, I would be reducing by a factor of at least 2 and ÷20 for the emitter resistor.
 
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Rudi_Ratlos

Rudi_Ratlos

Member
Joined 2009
Andrew, I sent this picture

2sa13608jczf.jpg


to Toshiba / Germany and asked them, if they can tell from the picture, if this is a genuine Toshiba transistor.

I received the answer a minute ago:

image2z0fgn.png


I translate: "The 2SA1360 does not really look like a Toshiba."

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

P.S. Lucylu: take care!
 
Rudi_Ratlos

Rudi_Ratlos

Member
Joined 2009
While I am waiting for replacement of the "fake Toshiba 2SA1360 transistors", I have started and prepared
the right side panel / heatsink of my FC-100's case.

I have been drilling holes and tapping them the whole day.
But the result looks perfect.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

P.S. I did not pull the screws tight. There will not be an air-gap between heatsink and bottom plate, if I do.
 

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Rudi_Ratlos

Rudi_Ratlos

Member
Joined 2009
Great, Claus!

This is exactly the way the shunts and the soft-power-on shall look like!

I am currently thinking about using a 75W High-Voltage-Halogen light to delimit the inrush current
- instead of using 2 x NTC 22Ohm@25degree NTC resistors!.

Use any kind of "small" MKT and ceramic capacitors that you have at hand to "bypass" the 2.200µF reservoir caps of the shunts.

I am wishing you success with your build - please keep us (me) informed about your current progress - I love pictures - Rudi_Ratlos
 
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P

pooge

Member
Joined 2003
Rudi_Ratlos said:
Pooge,

this one:

2sa1360jofnk.jpg


looks like an authentic Toshiba 2SA1360 transistor.
Not the one on the right side.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Click to expand...

Yes, mine also have the package like that, but the font as shown on the right one of post 426.

Regarding your picture, the Toshiba "T" is not consistant with the "T" on most Toshibas I have seen. It doesn't look authentic. So having the correct package would not appear to guarantee authenticity.
 
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