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#81 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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There already is one! Check the headphone amp GB and sign yourself up for a PCB board. You'll need HV caps for the input and output.
Cheers, Owen |
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#82 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: England
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I'll go for 6 x PCB depending on the price of postage to the uk.
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I thought about it once, but then thought again. |
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#83 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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A heatsink of what C/W rise is required for each board (of course dependent on power)?
__________________
Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#84 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sydney
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Quote:
OK, found it!!! For those interested, Owens PS boards are also $12 and can be found here: "The Wire" Ultra-High Performance Headphone Amplifier - PCB's Owen: Do you recommend one separate front end PS for each amp channel? Would 1 be OK for 4 channels? |
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#85 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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454Casull:
That question is far to vague to answer correctly. I'm putting together a spreadsheet that will help to calculate the C/W of the heatsink you'll need based on a few factors that the user can pick. You need to know the load, the rails, the idle bias current, the room temp, and the usage expectations. That last one is critical in the sense that if you expect to output full power indefinitely, you'll need a much bigger sink than you would if you use a 1/8th crest-factor (for music). As an example, if you want to output 400W continuously to the load, then the output transistors will dump about 400W continuously into the sink. If you want to dissipate that much power while keeping the heatsink temp below 100C then you're looking at about 0.2 C/W which is essentially impossible to attain with passive cooling. If you're listening to real music though, with 400W transients, then you could get away with a much smaller heatsink and passive cooling becomes a viable option. I'll post the spreadsheet tomorrow sometime and people can have a look. Cheers, Owen |
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#86 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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HYPERTUNE:
You could run all 8 channels off a single board as long as you don't push the voltage drop across the regs too high. Each channel draws roughly 15mA per rail, so all 8 channels together would draw about 120mA through each reg. As long as the input to output voltage differential is 10V or less, you'll be good to go. In other words, if you have 50V on the mosfets, plan for 60V on the LME, and plan for about 65 to 70V before the regulators. That would be a transformer with dual 48V secondaries. Cheers, Owen |
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#87 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: California
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Very nice design, thank you for sharing and organizing the GBs.
Schematic Comments: 1) Datasheet says Cmute should be no less than 47uF. I see a 10uF cap. 2) Datasheet recommends a decoupling cap across Vcc and Vee. This is shown in the demo board design as Cs13. It seems to be missing. Thanks! |
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#88 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I would like:
2 - Full kits Thanks. |
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#89 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Hi Owen,
Just to confirm my request, I'd like: 2 - PCB's without part kits. 2 - Full kits which include the PCB. Thanks! |
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#90 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sydney
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Quote:
Will there be any issues finding suitable caps that will fit the board? Any recommendation? Space won't be an issue so I could mount on the bottom if necessary. |
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