"The Wire AMP" Class A/AB Power Amplifier based on the LME49830 with Lateral Mosfets - Page 209 - diyAudio
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Old 15th March 2013, 02:58 PM   #2081
kiwik is offline kiwik  Estonia
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Here some pics of amp.
At the beginning i just wanted to get to life these old amps, they are both from mid80's. Really didn't have a glue that poweramp can make such a difference in sound. Tried the same setup at the beginning with different power amps incl the original one (one channel was still working). Sound was somewhat flat, lacking descent mid and low frequencies. I blamed speakers, the same age and origin than amps. But with thewire they are making descently good sound.
Preamp is pretty much original, changed only caps. Speakers, all elements are changed, mid and low to original ones, tweeters are Visaton DSM25FFL.

happy thewire amp owner
DSC03201(1).jpgDSC03198(1).jpgDSC03199(1).jpgDSC03202(1).jpg
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Old 15th March 2013, 03:08 PM   #2082
opc is offline opc  Canada
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Great stuff!!!

I'm really liking the vintage amp restoration... I think that's three people who have done that now

I also like the awesome retro look of the amplifiers, especially the Cyrillic labels on the front!

It looks like a great implementation, and I'm sure it will provide you with plenty of listening enjoyment.

Thanks for posting the pics!

Cheers,
Owen
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Old 15th March 2013, 05:46 PM   #2083
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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yeah I was going to mention that too, I guess its the tiny size, high performance and still being Class AB, so that existing power supplies can be used and the board is easily retrofitted into the chassis. Nice work kiwik! hopefuly i'll have some finished pics soon enough
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Old 15th March 2013, 08:35 PM   #2084
kiwik is offline kiwik  Estonia
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thanks for warm words!

well, as said it was my first project of that size for decades. I had some doubts when received first kits of amps, that this is over my skills to do it. Managed still, with much of help from manual. Funny, i have done mistakes opc listed there again and again in the past. This time was lucky to avoid them.

With these amplifiers, soviets didn't hold back, at least in design, trying to build a hi-end amp. With preamp, volume control and tone controls are not variable resistors, but rotary switches. The same with poweramp attenuators. In the preamp design are visible signs to maintain hi-end level. well, end result wasn't that good..

Anyone having thewire kit and feeling they cannot finish it: yes you can. Just take your time, make a research of things you are not sure of; and doublecheck everything. This amp is worth to giving a try

wb Margus
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Old 22nd March 2013, 10:21 AM   #2085
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Just ordered the bits I needed and will be up and running again... constantly on the lookout for a good used case with big(ish) heatsinks, but no luck so far. Might have to buy new yet...

Also working on an 8 Watt desktop amp inspired by Owen's LPUHP amp.
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Old 22nd March 2013, 11:06 AM   #2086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuildMeSomething View Post
Just ordered the bits I needed and will be up and running again... constantly on the lookout for a good used case with big(ish) heatsinks, but no luck so far. Might have to buy new yet...

Also working on an 8 Watt desktop amp inspired by Owen's LPUHP amp.
My last 4 resistors arrived today. Planning some time to test these amps over Easter and find some good bias resistor values for when I eventually build the switchable bias circuits.

I'm using one of these chassis - Design Build Listen Ltd

The case came with 2 x Conrad MF30-151.5 heatsinks which really need drilling soon.



I was also wondering if anyone had seen any recommended fuse values for the DPS600? I'm a bit puzzled about how to select fuse for my final build with 2 x dps600 and 2 x lpuhp all running through the same fuse.
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Old 22nd March 2013, 12:52 PM   #2087
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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I didnt think a fuse was needed for the dps600s, thought Roberto actually commented on this somewhere
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Old 22nd March 2013, 01:45 PM   #2088
opc is offline opc  Canada
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Quote:
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I didnt think a fuse was needed for the dps600s, thought Roberto actually commented on this somewhere
Agreed! The DPS-600 has a built in button fuse on-board.

You only really need one for each of the two LPUHP amps, and for those you should look at roughly 250mA for 120V, or 125mA for 240V per amp. When multiple transformers are on the same 120v or 230V bus, I usually suggest separate fuses for each.

For the LPUHP you can probably cut a few traces and install an SMD fuse if you won't want an external one hanging off the board

Cheers,
Owen
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Old 22nd March 2013, 01:57 PM   #2089
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Agreed! The DPS-600 has a built in button fuse on-board.

You only really need one for each of the two LPUHP amps, and for those you should look at roughly 250mA for 120V, or 125mA for 240V per amp. When multiple transformers are on the same 120v or 230V bus, I usually suggest separate fuses for each.

For the LPUHP you can probably cut a few traces and install an SMD fuse if you won't want an external one hanging off the board

Cheers,
Owen
Thanks guys!


Since I have the SumR tx for each LPUHP I'd rather go for an off-board fuse for each LPUHP rather than defile these PCBs. That all makes sense.

I probably need to work out my own fuse for all loads combined. I'm using FN9280-10-06 Schaffner EMC Inc | 817-1716-ND | DigiKey - 817-1716-ND as the IEC/switch for the enclosure and I need to work out a fuse for all loads combined. Discrimination of protection circuits for CB, main fuse and each individual load fuse is most certainly a case by case thing. I'll work it out in the morning, with a few less Peronis under my belt.


I'm mostly interested in what the inrush/startup current for DPS600 startup is at this point, I haven't found any info on that from Roberto.


Chris
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Old 22nd March 2013, 02:36 PM   #2090
opc is offline opc  Canada
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Most line rectified SMPS have relatively low inrush current since they charge the primary and secondary caps in two stages.

As soon as you plug it in (or switch it on) you'll charge the HV bus with the primary side caps. This is probably a 360V bus so inrush current is pretty low.

Once the main bus is up past the UVLO threshold voltage, the switcher should kick on and charge the caps on the output rails, but this is often a soft start so as to not destroy the switching fets.

Either way, I'd guess the inrush is quite low, and you can always use the value from the existing fuse on the PCB.

Cheers,
Owen
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